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I will put up some older pictures on my webpage to show you some of the steps in building a T2K.. It was my first one i built, and it was built in my old workshop( the techniques and building area both have been much improved since these photos from a couple years ago). : )

Heh
 

Two words GW: Lightening holes =)

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And a little canopy action (unfinished but you get the general idea)

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The parts for a new plane.....

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Mike, Nice photo. I did incorporate the Lightening holes in the laser cut parts on the newest one . I have changed the wing and stab on it to a double taper 1000 inch wing. I will send you some pics when I get a chance.

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A wing ready for the top skin....(lots of work)

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You most definetly need some laser cutting done. Your parts look great, but the time to make that many individual cuts would break me down. The ribs had to be a pain. We could plot those rib sets, and get them lasered for about $20 a set. Interested?

Is this the newly designed version you are working on, or is it a T2K?

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Cool =) It sounds like it'll be a LOT like my new one too. I did the double taper too, about 950 inches or so. I also redid the stab and rudder and moved some stuff to handle the coupling changes.

Look out D3, there's some serious wood coming!!! Heh.

-Mike

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It's my new one, based on a T2K fuse.

I have all the files in compufoil and I can convert them for cad. Lemme works out the kinks in this new configuration and you bet I'm interested. it takes 2 weeks just to make the parts, and my Dremel hates me.

-Mike

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Great info & very informative pics!!

By the way, how much are the plans?? as I tend to buy ( collect ) these before I decide which to build...

I notice the wing joining tube in the last pic... is that other 'tube / spar' the undercarriage mounting point??

Thanks!

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When you convert them, try to get in them into a AutoCad R-14 format, the laser man wants it that way, and we can lay them out on the sheets for maximum usage.

We will then be able to get the formers,ribs, etc all bundled into one laser cut set for about $60 for a complete laser kit. I would think it well worth the money. The formers alone took me about 5 hrs to cut out, never cut out the rib sets since I use foam, but that would be probably many,many more hours.

$60 well spent I would think. Let me know when you get the ribs all converted over,( or send me the dwgs, and I will covert to R-14) , I will combine with my former drawings, place it on the sheets, and shoot a draft to the laser man and get a quote for full kits.

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Stars,

Been 2 years since i bought my set . Price may have increased slightly

I think the plan set is around $25.
Canopy $20
Cowl $50 w/cheeks

1pm. about 55-60 degrees out. no wind.. Im gone to fly!

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Great pics! You do some sweet work

those prices are right on and they are on gatorrc.com

That wing looks pretty intricate, is it much lighter than the foam? I'm gonna check out the plans before deciding which way to go on the wing.

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The wing is actually very easy. It's just a lot of work.

The wings come out at about 9.5 to 10 ounces ready to cover. They are a lot stronger than the foam. I don't know what a foam set comes out to, but Gator brags about thiers being 11 ounces (and in my opinion, they are much weaker and prone to folding...they use a 'foam rib" technique, I have a set here and they are scary).

You just have to take a few minutes and set up a jig if you build up the wing panels. The tail is the same way.

-Mike

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Well, that doesnt sound too bad for the wing especially with laser cut ribs. It looked like you had some carbon fiber formers did you cut them yourself from sheet? It looks cool in there

I'm gonna order the plans right now :D

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The Carbon formers are actually balsa with .007 carbon fiber accent panel laminated to them. It looks cool, doesn't add much weight, and most importantly, it stiffens the wing area formers like steel. It ain't cheap though. But it works a lot better than straight balsa or ply. You have to be very careful though, because one stray drop of glue, or too much CA around it will make it look awful and you'll never get it cleaned up. When I glue them in, I use electrical tape over them to protect them, which doesn't come off until after it's painted. Then it makes me look like a better, cleaner builder than I actually am =)

-Mike

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thats a great idea, and anything you do that makes you LOOK like a better, cleaner builder; MAKES you a better, cleaner builder! There is no such thing as cheating while building an airplane, only ways of doing it better.

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Several people contacted me about the laser formers for th Typhoon 2000.. If you want a set let me know, I will be getting a order up this weekend for whomever wants a set. I want to get them all cut at once.


It will include all formers on the former sheet of the plans set.
Each set will be around $40 shipped to a US address.

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Mike,

What is that Red stuff on the inside of your canopy (on the side of the fuselage)? Also, how do you sheet your wings? Thanks.

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Red stuff? Dye. I got a little tired of looking at blah wood through the canopy. I thought about blacking the canopy out, but i got spoiled being able to readily see the tank. so I decided to color the inside as well.

That was a first attempt. it looked really good when finished and detailed with graphics and stuff. But the later tries gave better overall results. Some colors look better than others. But it's VERY hard to make it look good. One stray drop of glue and the whole thing looks crappy. You have to protect the inside of the plane just like it was fresh paint.

-Mike

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I got the Typhoon 2000 plans! They look great, nice print quality. Unfortunately i have a few other projects i need to finish up before I start building it. Did you guys who have built them cover them in film, or glass and paint them or what?

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Glass and paint fuse. cover wing ,stab ,and rudder.

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Typhoon 2000 Laser cut parts.

It has all the parts on the former sheet, plus a few more parts

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More pics of Typhoon

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another