n9331v

Seems to be a nice radio but I cant understand why they did not include Expo for throttle setting BIG MISS.... ( very nice feature for large gas engines and twins )

Ed

I don't know if it's been covered in a previous post, yikes there are 1100 of them [] ,

but ............ Does the Tx charge circuit contain a diode that needs to be jumpered for CYCLING ? And also, has anyone reversed the polarity on the Tx charge jack to put + on the center post ?

Thanks > Jim

Flypaper 2

First thing I did when I bought mine was to change the polarity so I can use the Hobbico fast field charger that I used with the Fut.9C. Don't have a good enough memory to use a jumper,switcher. Would be just a matter of time as to when I'd forget it. This way I don't worry.

d_wheel

Yes, I changed the polarity of the charge jack and it works fine. I am reasonably sure the charge circuit does not have a diode as I am using a Sirius peak charger. If you are not familiar with this charger, it will not work if a diode is in the circuit.

Later;

D.W.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Confirmed on the DX 7 thread in the support forums... no diode. I also use the Sirius charger, works just dandy - but I have the "JR" adapter on mine (reverses polarity from the non-JR types)

gooseF22

Hey guys a couple things I learned,
on the Throttle, you are right no expo, but you can play with a mix on it. Or better yet, read dick's post on trimming throttle linkages. go back to the basics and use geometry to get a more linear response, I did, worked pretty good on my razor.

If you have a hitec/digitals/programmer, you can move the mid point to 2/3 travel, so the first half of throttle movement results in about 1/3 opening of butterfly. My sukhoi/super80/ has a pretty flat response now without mix. Before moving center, vertical pullout was 1/2 throttle position, after moving center it was about 2/3, and the last 1/3 of stick still resulted in good rpm increase. Kind of a curve of sorts without burning a mix.

Dick brought up a very important point about programmable servos though, make sure you take the time to set up the linkages as best as you can so you don't program the servo outside the stock settings at 150% throw. It would by simple logic increase chances of problems. Dont use electronics to fix crappy setups, only to trim proper setups. It's funny since this radio came out, I have been looking at the MECHANICAL setups much more than before to see if people are covering up bad setups, or how the experienced modelers do setups. I guess it comes with getting more expensive models.

We are presently having the discussion on AR7K or 2 AR7K's in an expensive 40% aerobatic aircraft. With dual batteries, a high quality regulator like smart fly Turbo reg. Would like opinions of AR7K users only on adv/disav of 1 versus 2 of these baby's. Servo setup is dual aileron servos, dual elevator servos per side, plan to use seiko p50 on rudder, and all the rest standard stuff, does have smoke too so maybe add a 3rd battery for smoke/p50. Brings up discussion of whether to use separate ignition battery or not, (still thinking separate battery) so that totals 3 or 4. I plan to use TBM 5600 Ions. I know a single receiver can handle the current, as long as it can get enough power, but the plugs worry me on a plane that big. my 33% has one regulator plugged into Bat and one Y corded into Gear, with the choke servo. That's the only way I can see to do it without using a Y cord on the elevators unless I use a power expander.

I am leaning towards a power expander and one 7000, just so I dont' have to use so many y cords and to follow KISS principle ( keep it simple stupid). Servos will either be all 5955TG's or 8611A's on flt controls. Allows me to keep things consistent. If I used two radios and two batteries, could you connect the batter buses on the two receivers together to get redundancy on both recievers. Is it worth the extra complexity to reduce risk?

Ed

Thanks guys, that nails it. I also use the Sirius, and other peak chargers like the Alpha 4 and Elite, so not having a diode in the charge circuit greatly simplifys things.

I will also change the polarity on the charge jack permanently, as it's a lot safer then forgetting to use adapters.

> Jim

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Probably buried in here somewhere is a reminder about "REBINDING" ** IF ** you change anything on the throttle configuration; either mechanical or TX settings. Particularly if a gas engine....This only applies, of course, if you ARE using that "Smart Safe" throttle fail safe setup.

Rebinding the RX resets the fail safe settings for the throttle channel, so it is important for all of us to remember.... if we make changes to throttle setup ----- RE BIND!!!

kolarshooter

My Feedback: (1)

Well, over the last few weeks, I've spent a few "radio hours" burning-in my DX-7 transmitter on foamie planes (daughter's Easy-Star, etc.) then converted one of my 3-D foamies. I was surprised by how much easier hovering the plane was. I hand launched..harriered around, hovered in front of my face (if you had a face like mine, you'd hide behind a plane too) and walked all around in front of the pits...I always fealt "ahead" of the plane. As usual, I simply take hold of the plane when I'm done...but now it is soooo easy. Mind you, I only changed-out receivers. No other changes were made to this plane, which I've been abusing for a couple of years now. Control inputs are FAST...just think about it and it's happening. Was this my imagination?

SO...Yesterday I flew the maiden on my 33% H-9 Edge/DA-100.

Range tested per instruction manual but from 40+ paces (instead of 30 paces) in a 360 degree radius around the plane. No issues. Repeated with engine running: no issues. I had to walk behind my buddy's cargo van (at 40+ paces) to intermittently lose signal!

Spent a couple of minutes setting idle w/subtrim...then taxi...take-off.

It can't just be me...I had plenty of flights on that plane before, now the plane feels a little "twitchy" which I suppose is the increase in "net speed" the radio operates at. I increased expo a bit but did not get the chance to make the subsequent flights yesterday. So far, I'm sold on the Spektrum technology. After several dozen flights on the Edge, I'll consider converting my Colombo Anderson IMAC contest plane. It is a very neutral plane and may benefit from a little mixing (I changed prop and increased engine rt thrust and found all of the prior "little bad habits"vanished and found that the old mixes were no longer needed.) We'll see if I miss the 9303 then.

My complaints are very few. Having used the 9303 for a couple of years now, I have grown accustomed to programming features I certainly miss with the DX-7. I really miss trim step adjustment; like others, I'd like throttle curve; I miss switch assignability; I miss the 9303's rolling selector, etc.

So far, I'm sold on SS technology and its (perceived) speed. I'll gladly step-up to the next generation.

I'm off to the field for flight number 2 (and three, four and five) on the Edge.

Regards,

Robert

cygnet

My Feedback: (33)

Hi Guys Man is a long post. I just got a DX7 and think the 2.4 is the way to go. I do have a question or two it has probably been addressed but 46 pages of posts is a lot. I fly the big gassers and I'm switching my batteries over to Lions my question is this can you run lions unregulated (8.4 volts at full charge) can the RX handle this? What about the servos I use JR 8611's how will they handle the high voltage, any feed back would be apprieciated.

n9331v

Since this does not have throttle expo does anyone know how to use the mixes to compensate for no expo ?

I am trying to use this radio on my B25 and the way it is now the throttles are very touch at the low end ( not good on a twin ) if I cant resolve this I will have to switch back to Futaba PCM and that would be sad when I have this otherwise great radio.

Any thoughts ?

sergio turbo

Hi guys I want to know if the DX7 is available in mode 1, I can't find any info in Horizon, if not, is there any way to convert from mode 2 to mode 1 manually and electronically? Thanks Sergio

majortom-RCU

My Feedback: (40)

MyRCSupply.net shows the DX7 Mode 1 in stock. I presume other dealers have it as well.

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

Sometime back on this thread someone posted an OK on lions on the Rx...The rx can handle a much higher voltage than previously thought...I dont remember what they said about the servos?

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

A while back in this thread a <throttle to throttle> mix was discussed. I tried it, and it worked beautifully. You can then spread out the throttle action and get a nice gradual low end response.. It is great for landing when one click of throttle is either too much, or not enough.

n9331v

Thanks I will go back through the threads and try and find it ( throttle to throttle )

Flypaper 2

Can be done mechanically too, by taking the servo arm off and moving it much closer to the low end of the throttle travel. Used to do this on the gassers where 3/4 of the throttle response was in the first half of the throttle. What we had to do before expo and mixing were invented.

sergio turbo

Thanks for the info, It's strange that Horizon doesn't have it in the list being the Spektrum manufacturers.

n9331v

Throttle to throttle worked great I think it was around page 18

Thanks

Ed

gooseF22

my input.

Receiver is good for 3-9 volts
Hitec 5955's can go unregulated, but not many do it running risk of cooking a pot.
JR's and other hitecs dont like anything over 6.2-6.5 v consistently.

If you need more power, wait 2 months until JR 400 ounce 8711 comes out. OUCH it broke my wrist!!! or use the hitec 5995.

I have to say that the it's amazing how quickly these servos react at 6 volts to the AR7000. Bounce the stick and watch the surfaces !!

It will cost you 2 ounces to run 2 regulators at 6.2 volts. It will cost you big if a servo fails. thats my logic. I sure as heck cannot tell the difference between 6.2 volts and 7.4 volts. maybe some of you all can, but Im not at that level.

rmh

I have ordered 2 2300 ma 123 LiIon cells (These are De Walt) -the pack is 6.6 volts and I am looking for a mod to my EFlite Li Ion charger -or I have a circuit which looks right if I get values right . Anyone into this stuf - I also posted a help wanted on th RCGroups in Batts nChargers.
I think the JR servos will handle a steady 6.6 as long as I do not overload the servos (the RX is good to 9v)
and yes, this is over spec so please no alarm bells..
I don't like regulated Li Ions - (read that -I won't use em)
Maybe --on this setup I will need to insert a healthy diode and I can get them in 1/2 V drop and under, sizes-If I need to fine tune the voltage .
My 4300 ma pack works great - but these are likely just a little higher effective voltage under load .
This is a test - it is only a test - If it were an actual-or imagined emergency on this forum I would run screaming like a girl.

pt40crasher

Hey, weird...

I'm in Paso, too. Are you a north county cloud clippers member? I'd like to find out a bit more about them as I need their field to maiden my Sig SSE, and I might be interested in joining. My DX7 works great with the parkzone typhoon 3d that I chose to train and figure out the radio with. The configuration on the foamie is the same as my SSE.

AlphaWhisky

Hey - I`ll probably upset the masses here but I haven`t got the wherewithall to troll thru hundreds of posts here and I don`t have the experience to know about this gear.... Query - is this DX-7 Tx and its standard Rx compatible with standard Futaba servos?

Alan W

paul7194

The Futaba servos will work fine.

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

Yup...it sure is. It likes any kind of servo, but you will have to nip that Futaba polarization allignment tab off their servo leads so that it will plug into the rx. It uses a JR type connector....just slightly different from Futaba, but it's no problem to make Futaba fit just as well. If you look very closely at the JR types, you will see that two corner edges are beveled so as to give it a sort of a "D" shape. That gives them their own flavor of polarization. The newer Futaba connectors also have that bevel so all you need to do is nip off the tab. Older Futaba connectors will need a touch with a small file to get the bevel required. No worry though..it's a quick and easy modification. And..if you'd rather not go through the modifications yourself...just buy JR replacement connector housings and put them on in place of your Futaba's. Carefully pry up the teeny little locking tab that holds each of the three connector contacts into the housing and just withdraw the contact by gently pulling on the wire. Dont yank it...if you have the little tab lifted sufficiently, the contact will just about fall out. Then, noting correct color coding, insert the contacts into the JR housing and you are done.