joizeex

oh cool, didn't know rs4 had same port. yea, i've been using high temp liquid gasket on all my engines when i suspect a leak, so i have a whole tube of that stuff. i had it on the torn gasket even now, but it just didn't hold up i guess. it does work great on sealing the back plate to the block though. actually, i decided to just get that THS pipe now (you had me sold hahaha) since i'm already ordering a servo from there.

did you have to port match the flange? it looks like the opening is smaller than the exhaust port.

i also found out that kyosho has its own header-exhaust combo that works with rectangular ports. part numbers VSW052BK (black), VSW052BL (blue) and VSW052R (red), for those interested in different colors. it's $70 though.

jayrguidaben

good for you haha.. you will not be disapointed on this pipe. trust me. nope i did not port the flange. what i did is just grind the end of the pipe with a dremmel. why? coz its hitting on the turn buckle. just a little bit to make it fit. i saw that kyosho headers but they were to expensive. for $70 i rather buy ths pipe. let me know what you think on the pipe after you run it. just remember to retune your engine. do you have the video now? maybe you'll convince me an engine hehehe..

joizeex

hey i got the pipe and put it on, but if i keep the header-pipe connection straight and tight, then the mounting extrusion at the end of the pipe will not fit at all. so i angled the pipe up, but now there's a small gap where pipe meets the header with a rubber gasket. but even this way the pipe mounting wire gets in the way of turnbuckle and the tire hits the pipe mounting extrusion. how did you get this thing to fit?? can you take pics please. it seems like the only way to keep the pipe-header connection straight AND not hit the turnbuckle or tire is to completely cut the mounting extrusion off.

jayrguidaben

just grind the pipe mounting wire just a little bit until it will fit. i dont have a camera right now. do have a dremmel?

jayrguidaben

you need to modify your pipe hanger. what i did are, i did not use the small screw in the pipe hanger i just loop it so its not gonna go anywhere. i grind the pipe hanger.

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joizeex

wow that was a fast reply! thanks a lot man. that's kinda what i was thinking of doing, but i was like "am i really gonna have to cut everything off? and will it still hold if i loop it??", but looks like you did just that and it works fine. no dremel, but i'll get a hacksaw and pwn that thing

what kind of foams (shore) do you have and how's grip and longevity? does the car roll too much with stock springs?

i think it's gonna rain tomorrow, but i might run it on sunday. although there's an air show at mcguire's air force base that i'm going to on sunday. in case anyone's interested. http://www.mcguireairexpo.info/
once i get this car going i'll make some vids.

jayrguidaben

45 shore 26mm in front and 42 shore 30mm at the back. i only use it like for a copple of times so i really dont know how is the longevity. but it grip alot more than the stock ones. but if i am racing im gonna use lower than my shores now. what do you mean "does the car roll too much with stock springs?" for me it runs fine with stock spings.

joizeex

i meant that when you go to stickier tires, like foams, the added grip will make the car roll side to side in turns more than stock tires. so usually the solution is to get stiffer springs and/or sway bars. i noticed that my car does that with 40 shore 30mm kyosho foams (front and back). for my next foam set for bashing i'm gonna get 45 shore front/back and probably 26mm front this time, as i get some snap-oversteer with current 30mm f/r setup when i'm not careful.

jayrguidaben

30mm in the front? you just use 26mm in front and 30mm at the rear. try 45 shore 30mm at the rear and 42 shore 26mm at the front. its a good combination for bashing and will last longer.

joizeex

so i finally got to shoot some footage of the car with GXR18 and THX pipe.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0wjjQH7JEI
i was recording with the digicam dangling around my neck, so i couldn't really aim or zoom it while controlling the car. there's closer footage of the car towards the end of the vid. with the body on, it started to get quite hot, 315F or so and it wasn't lean either. had to open up the needle. also, the screws/nuts that hold the header kept getting lose and blew the gasket and exhaust crap was covering everything in the rear. i did use blue loctite; i guess i'll have to tighten it harder.

the handling is awesome, but it does oversteer a lot. i'll have to tune that out and having staggered instead of same width foams as my next set should help. all the oversteer and torque tore off chunks from rear foams and made my rubber tires come unglued from metal rims (also rear). bleh.

jayrguidaben

wow!! all i can say is wow. im gonna get that engine to. 315 thats hot im thinking it might be the header getting lose causing an air leak. an airleak on the header will not give you pressure on the tank to the carb. and the sound of it on your video you need taller gearing. you need more top end. it lacks on gearing so that's why its over heating. just my .02 and if your just bashing in the parking lot get the highest shore you can get. on the header instead of the gasket put ultra copper silicone and blue locktite on the screws. i have the same problem with that before screws keep on losening. last sat i drove my fw and the headers holds up.

joizeex

is that thing sick or what lol. now i can stay with my friend's 4tec 3.3 to possibly like 45-50mph or so, before running out of gearing. before, on GXR15 with stock pipe, i could only stay head to head to maybe 30mph, 4tec being a bit heavier (i THINK). i'll have to see how it stacks up. the engine is just as easy to work with as original 15, so you'll absolutely love it.

i was thinking exhaust air leak too. hopefully i didn't damage the new engine. on my nitro heli i don't even use any gasket or sealant and it never leaks and screws stay in with blue loc. maybe i'll try no gasket here too.[sm=50_50.gif] and yea, the low gearing definitely makes the engine rev up to high rpms real fast, especially when tires break loose, which happens a lot as u can see. good for drifting, bad for temperatures and tires lol

i ordered a new set of foams a while ago, 26mm 42s front and 30mm 45s rear per your previous advice. gonna pick them up from someone on this forum.

this friday i'm planning on being up in Montclair, so if you wanna check it out in that huge lot, let me know. i'm also bringing my small helis, for some airborne stupidity

jayrguidaben

try this one the stock 1st spur gear is 51t use 50t http://www.shopkyosho.com/product/pa...5411.12191.0.0
and 2nd spur gear is 46t use 45t http://www.shopkyosho.com/product/pa...5411.12191.0.0

jayrguidaben

cool. ok i think im not busy on friday. what time are you going there? just pm me thanks. how do you race there? do you use cones or what ever?

superjimis

if you change spur gear is there a need to change the pinion gear?

joizeex

for small changes in teeth numbers on spur, you normally shouldn't have to change the pinion, but you might need to remesh the gearing.

jayr, does 1 tooth change make any noticeable difference? with some calculations it seems like the change in rpm's is small. maybe if i changed the pinion to higher tooth count as well? doesn't the old NON Plus FW05T have fewer pinion teeth than Plus?

i'm going to be there pretty late, around 11pm. i don't have any cones yet, but i could bring some empty juice, nitro and windshield washer bottles lol.

jayrguidaben

yeah i agree with you its gonna be small difference. try to change the pinion to a bigger one (more teeth). i dont know about the non plus pinion to a plus. if so tell me if their different. you got the non plus? i thought you got the plus version? so that's why on your youtube video you got all the upgrades i've read.

why so late? do they still allow us to run there on that time? how many of us are going there?

haha cool ill try to get some empty bottles too.. if im going.

joizeex

yea it's the original FW05T that i got back in 2005, and i was getting annoyed at not being able to adjust certain things with ease or at all, so i installed some generic turnbuckles and all that other stuff. so right now it's just like the plus version. 3racing makes quality stuff for good price.

so yea, i was trying to figure out what pinions will work with stock clutch bell and have a couple teeth more. any suggestions?

i'll be there late because i'm leaving here around 8-9pm and it's a 1.5 hr drive basically. the cops there don't care how late and the parking lot is always lit. we done it at like 1am before. they asked "what are you guys doing here??" "running rc cars" "but at THIS hour?!" "yea, no one's around" hahaha.
most likely my friend and another member from this forum will be there.

jayrguidaben

i don't know about pinion for this car try searching http://www.shopkyosho.com/index/pg=4...5411.28934.0.0
i think its gonna work even though its for fw 05rr. call kyosho. and if you now it already post it right here because

i am looking for an engine like the o.s. 18 tz. i need engine mount for this one but what? aside from kyosho what else is direct fit. and a manifold im thinking ths manifold rear exhaust because right now i have the ths pipe. what do you think?

superjimis

i am looking for an engine too.which is better LRP 12 Z. 12S or TZ 18?

joizeex

jayrguidaben, wouldn't just any 12-18 engine mount fit? i imagine so. at least something that works for OS and sirio engines, should work with kyosho.

for some reason it looks like the stock pinions are actually one-piece that screws on the clutch-bell. in the manual it's 2 separate gears, i must be seeing things??

i just got done finding and fixing the roots of my problems. the header screws didn't get loose, it was the puny HPI gasket that blew off completely and left a gap. i just used some liquid gasket this time.

also, the high rpm's you noticed in the vid and overheating were partially due to flywheel nut starting to get loose and flywheel rotating on the engine shaft with very lil resistance! i thought i had it on tight, dammit [:@]. good thing i caught it early. that happened before with stock GXR15 straight from the factory and it ground out the whole in the flywheel and collet. but this was my fault because i put it on. well now the rpms should be more steady. i'm surprised the thing was still fast considering flywheel wasn't secured to the crank!

honestly though, for those looking for a good performer in .18 size, the GXR18 is a great deal. it fits right on, so you don't have to purchase mounts and different clutch-bell and/or other stuff. so the money you might save on a different engine will be spent on supporting parts. just my thoughts on it.

jayrguidaben

i think so on the engine mount.

yeah its looks like they are in one piece. me to when im browsing for a pinion gears im seing seperates. but i think when you unscrew the 1st pinion the 2nd pinion gear will just stay on the clutchbell. then after you take out the 1st gear then you can take out the 2nd gear.

so thats why im hearing over rev. use locktite on your nut on the flywheel. the gxr 18 is in backorder on a amainhobbies so im looking for an alternative engine and i called my lhs and they said just put os 18tz but i need to buy manifold (coz i have the ths pipe already), engine mount and airfilter. and i thinlk i need to cut the shaft. have you seen my other thread about that?

i know now what to buy the os 18cv-r it is side exhaust and all i need is motor mounts. and i think i still need to cut the shaft. because on kyosho engines its a short shaft but lets see if it arrives at my lhs.

jayrguidaben

do you have the fw 05t? try to search the os 18cv-r with the slide carb.it is side exhaust too. you only need motor mounts.

superjimis

jayrguidaben i have the fw-05t plus .if i take 18 CV-R i need only engine mounts but i doesn't look powerful engine.only 1.35hp/28.000 and max rpm 32.000.is it a lot better than GXR 15 ?how much hp and rpm is the GXR 15?

jayrguidaben

i've been searching the specs of the gxr 15 but couldnt find it. but i think its much powerful than the gxr15. or if you like put a gxr 18 on it. like joizeex did. its direct bolt on. but if you want more powerful engine i think the drivetrain will not hold up.