Zim-uh-tosa

Thanks guys....I just love that truck jmz. It is a worthy rig and deserves some attention.

Here is the start of my Wheely King based trail rig. Don't laugh too hard. It was all built with a hack saw, dremmel, drill and heavy sand paper!!...This started off as you may have seen as a Torsion chassis but I did not like the way it came out. This project is in it's 3rd or 4th configuration with the same materials, so bare with me if things look kinda thrashed(re-brazing the same metal over and over puts some stress on aluminum I guess)...I won't do a build thread, but I will just show some progression pictures form then, now and then as I continue. I want to specially thank Hands Without Shadows for his time in helping everyone here with WK templates and personally answering my dumb questions....Thanks.

Zim-uh-tosa

So, because i have not allowed for too much room, I am not going to clock the motor plate, but instead I will be mounting my motor where I am holding it in the previous picture. I will build some sort of custom bracket just like I did for the tranny....That will not be the motor I use but I will be running brushless and 11.1v Lipo.

My next hurdle will be the 4 link suspension. If anyone has any ideas on where the best places would be to mount the links, I am open to suggestions. I will at least be triangulating the uppers, but would like to do all 4. If you look at the outside of my tranny case, that's where I was planning on going with the uppers since I purposefully enclosed the case in order to have some meat to bolt stuff to. I think that I might build a bracket across the rails, in front of the tranny case to mount the lowers(above drive line). I will have to do some tests to get it correct...I made a linkage holding system (see pic) that utilized one of my old Helicopter tail rotors. It looks almost precision made for this part except for the hokey flat head screw I used[]

I think that Wheely King shocks are going to be way overkill for this rig too??? Maybe I can build a shock tower above the engine compartment. Or do it the easy way and buy new shocks.

Z

joe2011

need Wheely King manual any help thank you

The Real Dogman

you need a wheely king manual?? is that what you are asking for??

[link=http://www.hpiracing.com/manuals/pdf/10830.pdf]How about clicking here and download the pdf and printing it[/link]

joe2011

yes

jmz6

A few pics from a couple weeks ago, wheels pretty good.... No complaints.





This wasn't built to be a shelf queen, it has to uphold its Wheely King reputation and thumb its nose at all the WK haters out there...


Definitely not a cookie cutter scaler!!!

Zim-uh-tosa

JMZ~ You scratched the paint man...Watch it! LOL

I have my Cruiser at "almost" roller status. The upper links are finished and the lowers are waiting on more parts. I bought the Traxxas Half shafts (you can see them hanging down) that I have to cut to length when I am ready for that stage....I am wanting to trade my WK shocks for some shorter ones if anyone is interested? These WK are like what. 120mm??? Way gnarly long for this project. Is there a way to cut them down??? Maybe I will chop the shaft, cut new threads, cut the springs and call it good? LOL Anyone successfully cut theirs?

Z

PS...Don't really like the width of the wheels on a scaler. No way in H.E.Double hockey sticks I am cutting them like JMZ did! I do have the Axial MIPs that would work for that though..LOL[X(]

Traxxas4fun

My Feedback: (3)

if i get stock wheely king, where do i get the extended links and drive shafts? im going for more of a scale truck..

Zim-uh-tosa

If you are not going to buy the Crawler kit, you need to buy the Traxxas Half shafts[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP55&P=M]Pictured here....[/link] and cut them to fit(I bought the long ones). They attach directly to your old connectors that are on your diffs and your transmission(so you are only replacing the centers). I also used the metal universals that came with the new driveshafts but had to drill the holes out slightly larger.

For the Links, I bought a pack or Revo links[link=http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/638455.asp]Heres exactly what I bought[/link] that come with the balls but have no rods included(about $8.50 per pack). I also bought 8mmx32 threaded rod at Home Depot that fits perfectly. 8mm is a nice tight fit..

Z

Pictured are the exact links I used from the link above...

Traxxas4fun

My Feedback: (3)

ok thanks, i was wanting to make more of a mud truck.. I dont really want the extend chassis, when i get ill prolly flip the chassis so the batt weight is up front.

I wanted a old ford body and some 2.2 slingers

Traxxas4fun

My Feedback: (3)

is this the only thing i need to lock the back axle on my wheely king?
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HPI88073

and arent the diffs shimmed and everything anyway?

jmz6

Looking good...

That is the beauty of this truck, I just patch what I scratch.

Have you looked into either T-Maxx Or E-Maxx shocks, they are a bit shorter? You could always put some fuel tube on the shaft under the piston to "shorten" the shock, although you lose some travel that way.

I hacked into my axles to prove a point and it worked nicely for this truck. I have like 5 other sets of various axles so the gamble was worth it to me. I don't recommend it unless you are willing to can the axles if something goes seriously wrong.

jmz6

You could use JB weld in the diff for the cheap route, or any of these.
[link]http://rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=944&cat=23&page=1[/link] AX-10 lockers will work in the diffs
[link]https://www.tcscrawlers.com/RcGuy-HPI-Wheely-King-Diff-Locker-for-2-axles-p-16309.html[/link]

Sometimes they are shimmed, you need to see how much play there is in your axles

Zim-uh-tosa

I filled my diffs with hot glue...I can reverse it later and it works very nicely. If you do this, you should fill them with an axle plugged in and seated all the way in or your axles will be a pain to get back together. Ask me how I know...If you don't plug an axle in, you can use a very thin tip on a soldering iron to heat up the hard glue that's in the way of the axle seating all the way....Your choice.

Z

Zim-uh-tosa

Quick pictures of my 4-link...I will most likely sleeve the rods with aluminum tubing later, but for now, who cares?

jmz6

Does the suspension bind at all? I tried mounting the upper & lower links the same way with one build and the suspension would bind during travel. The axles wanted to move in a circular direction and changed the wheel base as they cycled. Can you mount the lower links further down on your chassis so the links are more paralell?

Traxxas4fun

My Feedback: (3)

ok thanks jmz6, but you didnt answer my question. are those the only lockers i need to lock the rear axle? is that the only thing i need, and i assume they will work since they are made for the wheely king
also i dont know what exactly to jb weld in the axle, id rather get this locker, which i can take out later right?

jmz6

The locker is the better choice especially if you plan on changing back to open diff.
To answer your question yes, open the diff, pull out the spider gears and drop the locker in, it is that simple.

Zim-uh-tosa

The shocks were just mounted to test a few places I would like to build brackets(those shocks will be too long even if I did a full droop)...As for the suspension binding, it was not binding during hand testing and cleared the shocks where I want them mounted. The axle seems to rotate nicely on a center axis because of where the uppers are at. If I spread them out more, wouldn't that take the Triangulation out of the equation? If anything, I might mount the triangulated link toward the bottom of the pumpkin. It's all trial and error from here with what will work the best.

Z

Zim-uh-tosa

JMZ~ After re-reading your comment I am not sure I get exactly what you mean. You think I should move the link down from the center mount, not the axle mount, right? I think I am getting a little bit of axle movement that would change the wheel base. Almost looks like the works of how a skateboard turns. If that is the case, how much movement is too much and where should I try to mount the links exactly? Any help will save me heartache later...LOL

Thanks,

Z

jmz6

Yes on the center of the chassis, mount the lower links further down, this will help eliminate axle steer, if you have your stock chassis look at the way the mounts are. Also your truck will work better if your upper and lower links are paralell to each other. Triangulating the links more will also help combat the dreaded axle steer problem, not so much of a problem for scalers, but for comp rigs it is.

Zim-uh-tosa

JMZ~ Cool, thanks for taking the time to explain that. I was going to mount the lower links further down the chassis to begin with but thought it looked neat-o with both of the links hitting the same spot(didn't have the hardware till last night either). I will now, with your advice, move them. Like I said, I do see the axles bunching up a little bit on articulation.

This has really been fun making parts and seeing everything come together. I do not have a stock chassis since I built the frame before even having any other parts. I probably would have done some things differently and will change stuff as I go. I am either going to make a new frame since I am in a CNC class, or cut the tranny mount out, add some metal to lower it, and reattach it. That way, I can build an interior with all that crap out of the way. WK clocked motor plate is in order soon...I am making some custom bumpers in shop out of solid aluminum.

Z

Zim-uh-tosa

Kinda sucks that the WK thread is so dead....Where's the rest of the scale WK dudes at? I need to steal ideas!!!!!

I didn't work on my chassis last night for a change and tried my hand at some scale side-mirrors...Although I am not finished with them, I think they came out pretty nice. I am going to sculpt some aluminum to mount on the edge of the mirror so you can't see the edge of the mirrored glass. I will also make the mount on the glass frame look more like a bracket with more paint. Whattaya think?

Also, check out the new nubs I brazed in on the front for the heavy(and I mean heavy)duty bumper. Didn't have time in class yet to mill the sucker but hopefully on Tuesday it will be done. I will post a pic of the block of aluminum I have for the project for reference, and before I cut it....I am going to mount it so the frame nubs slide 1/4" deep into the back of the bumper and then screwed on from the front. I'll pick some pretty bolts from the hobby shop and counter sink them in. I wanted it to be removable because it might be TOO BIG!

Z

eylemkaan

Hi there all. Rotten in all kind of earth-terrained RC(on-road and off-road cars, buggies, truggies) very much EP and basically BL obsessed guy from Turkey, that went drooling after crawling biz after watching great videos around the globe.

Anyhow, I hate long intros and here's whatI've done so far w/my WK:

- RTRWK pack,
- Crawler conversion pack,
- Gear reduction set,
- 2SLipo,
- 96/15 nu gears (on da way),
- Couple of new bodies (will only present one here with lot's of trucker sayings in Turkish, rest is still WIP),
- 55T motor,
- Everything flipped, nothing on the front anymore,
- Suspension placement changed completely,
- Most of the plastic sh*t that came w/the RTRpack changed w/steel rods/bars where needed.
- 2.2" rock crawling tires (on da way, stock so far),
- Will add 350 gr each extra weight on the front tires and 150 gr each on da back.

Just let me know what you think?

Sunny_B

Very nice. How about some picturtes of the chassis without the body? Very good work.
Sunny_B