nickrummy

I guess I should restate my last statement.

I CA glued my hexes in. Reason being you can throw them in the oven and melt the CA back down and pull the hexes out. If you want to use aluminum hexes it might not be a bad idea.

Another idea, Let off the throttle when the wheels bind

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For those of us not in the know ..... CA glue? Is that just Crazy Glue (or hot stuff, etc)?

Anomie

CA is cyanoacrylate. Basically, super glue. But not necessarily any particular brand.

nickrummy

just normal super glue.

I think it stands for cyanoacrylite. should say it on the bottle.

EDIT: Dang Reiko you're quick!

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Can the stock WK electronics handle a Lipo battery?

The Real Dogman

ok guys, here something Different. I took out my pocket knife and wittled this out of a hunk of old delrin from out yonder, to clock my Wheely King Tranny!! I used all WK gears and eliminated the clicker clutch and now there is only 3 gears inside.. Did it just for fun, to see if I could do it.. Part of my tuber build!!


Anyway the pics::

RCminded

Gee Dogman I sure wish I could wittle like you, anyway are you selling these like you did the upper links and where do I sign up?

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So the idea of clocking the transmission is mostly so that you can have the motor lower for a better COG?

I assume you must have an aftermarket chassis to do this.

hands without shadows

They can handle 2s lipo, but you will need an external lipo cutt-off to prevent over discharging the pack.

That tranny is awesome Dog!!

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2s? You mean a 2 cell?

NitroDemon18

Great job!

hands without shadows

Yes, the s means cell (s). It is a common abbreviation.

RCminded

Hey guys I never got an answer on whether or not anyone was running a droop setup.

Dogman, I saw you were considering doing this on your tuber. How does one go about setting it up for this.

UTRecon

If I may correct you, S indicates "series" connected, as in add the cell voltages, ie 3.7v + 3.7v = 7.4v.

Similar 2s2p is 2 cells in series with 2 cells in parallel. Parallel adds ampacity.

Recon out

The Real Dogman

Well the first thing you will need to determine is your at rest ride height. once you mock up your rig at that height, you can measure what length of compressed shock you will need or wether or not you can drill holes to make what you have work.

Now to prepare the shocks, you will remove the spring and lower perch, then open the shock, drain out all of the fluid pull out the shaft and install appropriate internal spring(I got mine from ace hardware) and you might need a short length of fuel tubing to limit the amount of droop you want or need. Now, I'm not sure what wieght of shock oil you will want but in my case I'm going to try 1000wt diff lube see how that works.

As a quick overview, I hope this helps!!

Neil E

Hey Dog, That sounds like a lot of oil weight in the shock. I don't think you will get much action out of them. I started out with 30wt shock and am thinking about 20wt. Heavy oil takes to long for the shocks to extend. I am thinking about putting 10wt in the Huslter.

Don't do as I do, do as I say.....

nickrummy

The heavier weight does slow down the shock action but we aren't jumping anything here It helps keep the rig really stable.

Neil E

Ya, it's all in preferance and driving style. When all said and done I will probably have changed it all. Got to start somewhere.

hands without shadows

Good call. I wasnt thinking there.

cen123

Hey I was just kind of wondering. What's so fun about rock crawling? Would the extended chassis add stability in normal driving?

RCminded

Dogman, that kinda helps but where do you put the springs? under the piston above? I was planning on puting the shocks body side down, with the shaft up. where do I put them for that? Otherwise isn't that called internal spring shock setup and not droop? or are they the same thing. Sorry but I are am stoopid[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] when it comes to this. Really just because I havent' done it!

RCminded

CEN123, Would the extended chassis add stability in normal driving? Who cares normal driving is boring if I wanted to do that I would just drive around in my regular car just kidding though (I actually have a stock Wheely King for normal driving in the basement when it is cold or raining) Anyway to answer you question, for me rock crawling is a challenge most the time when I show it to people I ask them to point out an obstacle they dont think it could climb (within reason). Then after my truck traverses the obstacle easily it becomes a game of "can it go over that? or that? what about this?" eventually they are to amazed to doubt it's coolness.

The second part is that it gives me a feeling of accomplishment, when I first started with my bone stock wheely king I would do little mods one by one to get over a little more difficult obstacle. For me it became an addiction and now I am the proud owner of a near complete tube chassis WK based crawler capable of outperforming my AX-10.

Third is the appeal of watching my creation climb and getting up that one impossible slope. best of all there doesn't need to be someone there to beat like in racing so I mess with my crawler stuff alot more than my other cars(TC4, RC10B4, RC18t, Scalpel, Micro Rs4, Micro-t).

Finally it is probably genetic or something but it is just cool to some and not so much to others. No offense to Nascar fans out there but what is the appeal to watching cars go in circles for hours?(don't get me wrong I really appreciate the focus it places on driver skill rather than team budget) It just doesn't do it for me.

Here is a tip, go on youtube and search RC rock crawler or wheely king or AX-10 or Clod Buster If like me you end up watching like 6 hours of it no more explanation will be required.

oh yeah and the extended chassis would help stability in normal driving but keep in mind that depending on how you do it other things may have to be changed. If you are looking to extend the WK and keep it a basher Check out TCS crawlers komodo chassis it uses most of the stock equipment.

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/product.p...cat=103&page=1

hands without shadows

For me its watching my crawler do something almost impossible and thinking "yeah, I built that." Its truly an amazing sense of accomplishment. Whenever I get that feeling I just want to mod it some more and make it capable of something even more difficult, and I can because there are virtually no limits.

s7jstep1

i want to create a limited slip diff in my wheely king but i dont want to fully lock it. what is the best method to do this? i was thinking of just packing the diff with grease. will this work?

RCminded

There is a problem with making it a limited slip differential. Tha easiest way to do it in rc is to use grease or putty or clay. In the case of teh wheely king the differential is not made to hold fluid, it has no seals at least the carrier alone does not, so it won't hold fluid. You can put silly putty or clay in there but putty is think and will work its way out of the gears and into the crevices of the carrier and clay over time will harden and also makes its way out of the gears. you could pack the gears in putty let them push it out of the way and then repack but I have never actually done this so I am not sure how well it would work. lastly you could try filling the whole axle with grease, like on real trucks, and hope that the bearings and the two case halve keep a good seal. chances are they won't though. Lastly and thoughit is definetly the most difficult option you could try to make it work like the real limited slip unit work by finding a thin (like paper thin) friction material (gasket material, hard rubber) and cutting little disks of it to put behind th side gears. the way this would work is because when the pinion gears and side gears mesh and move they push away from each other. The harder they push the more "locked" the diff would become, dut like I said before this would be very labor intensive with finding the right material and cutting up little disks and stacking them to get the desired amount of slip.

I hope this wasn't to confusing, I know I am long winded, sorry.