torque roll
#1
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From: Atlanta, IL
Hey all, I am having an issue, I just built my own chassis....and can't figure out why I have so much torque roll...I think that is what is is anywayz,
First off, when I drive up on something with my left tire my left rear tire wants to come up with it, instead of staying on the ground and articulating

But if I drive up on something with my right front tire, the rear right tire stays down (articulation). And I just can't seem to figure out why it is doing this
Here is a pic of it driving up on the same 12 pack on the right side, and as you can see the rear right tire stays down
First off, when I drive up on something with my left tire my left rear tire wants to come up with it, instead of staying on the ground and articulating

But if I drive up on something with my right front tire, the rear right tire stays down (articulation). And I just can't seem to figure out why it is doing this
Here is a pic of it driving up on the same 12 pack on the right side, and as you can see the rear right tire stays down
#3
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From: Atlanta, IL
Well I have been through a lot with this truck since my last post......I cut about a quarter inch off of three of the springs....All three but the left rear corner, to compensate for torque twist......I made all new lower link/shock mounts and I also made two plates...kinda like a servo plate on the front and rear axles with a upper link mount, instead of the links being connected right to the axle. I just took it out for a short run, and it isn't as bad, but it still wants to roll too easy on the one side...
#6
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From: Atlanta, IL
ORIGINAL: K_B
Cutting the springs doesn't really make it softer, if that's what you're trying to accomplish, it just lowers your ride height and preload.
Cutting the springs doesn't really make it softer, if that's what you're trying to accomplish, it just lowers your ride height and preload.
Here is a few pics.....not to much to show, but it actually did alot better than expected once I got on the rocks, which is mostly bricks....I don't like to test it on the bricks, cause they like to move around as you crawl on them. I don't have many big rocks around here to test it out on. So I did my best to set up what I had available today....I will also be uploading a video to show you how it actually runs on this terrain.
These are the same shot but different angles...


and these are two other shots.....


Here is a shot from of the terrain I was testing on

And finally here is a pic of where I was standing running my truck........

Oh yeah, I have a few R/C boats that are ready to be tested out there on that water......
#7
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From: Atlanta, IL
ORIGINAL: GOT ROCKS
Try it with out the springs in it. do you have slip yoke drive shafts?
Try it with out the springs in it. do you have slip yoke drive shafts?
#9
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From: Atlanta, IL
I bought these shocks thinking they were the big bore traxxas shocks.....But there not.....and the bottom of the shocks have rod ends on them, but the top of the shocks don't.....I read a thread a few days ago about how to take the top part off, cut off the hole, and drill a hole in the top of that, screw a screw in it, and cut off the head, and then thread on the rod end.....they said it made a 110% difference in articulation....and That is why I think mine is binding up so much.
#10
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From: Omaha,
NE
It sounds like a good idea. But I'd use a button head allen srew just for more security of the end of cap snapping off. Looks like a cool litlle ride. When you get mad at it don't through it in the lake! Thash on something else it works for me.
#11
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From: Atlanta, IL
ORIGINAL: GOT ROCKS
It sounds like a good idea. But I'd use a button head allen srew just for more security of the end of cap snapping off. Looks like a cool litlle ride. When you get mad at it don't through it in the lake! Thash on something else it works for me.
It sounds like a good idea. But I'd use a button head allen srew just for more security of the end of cap snapping off. Looks like a cool litlle ride. When you get mad at it don't through it in the lake! Thash on something else it works for me.
End of what cap snapping off?
#13
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From: Atlanta, IL
Yeah but I still don't see what your sayin about puttin a button end allen screw in......I used button head phillips screws with a washer behind it...I don't think they are going anywhere
#14
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From: Atlanta, IL
Here is a video....This is before I changed the top of the shocks around. Not the best video...but an idea of how stiff it was....it is still like this a lil bit.....but I just need some softer springs up front I believe.....but I really can't tell.....
http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ent=video1.flv
And then here are a few pics with the body on.


http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ent=video1.flv
And then here are a few pics with the body on.


#15
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From: lincoln,
ME
what I did on mine to eliminate the torque twist all together is I mounted my 2 upper links down in the same location as my lower links on front and rear. you may need to make up some new links to get the length right. what I did was mounted the up to the same bolt that holds the lower on. the uppers on inside of chassis plate and lower links on outside. torque twist gone forever on mine. I also run soft springs in front and med on rear.
#16
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From: Atlanta, IL
I think I have all this taken care of for now...I made custom upper link mounts on the axle to raise the upper links at the axle. I didn't have to move the upper links at the chassis itself...just raised the upper links at the axles. Then I had those Tmaxx shocks with the medium red springs....and they were way too strong.....still don't know why it was rolling on one side and not the other...but I changed the springs on the tmaxx with some shorter softer springs to lower the ride height and COG and that also made the articulation better with no torque twist or torque roll...Now I can climb on either side till the front axle is at about 80 degrees before the rear wheel wants to lift....I am very happy with the way it turned out.




