Does anyone have any pictures of scale looking Pull-Pull ends.My elevator has top and bottom horns so they are visible and should look neat. Any help is appreciated. I was going to use th threaded coupler hooked up to a clevis but Im wondering if there is a neater way of doing it? Any help is appreciated

the full sized air craft uses swaged cable that goes through the horn. That's depending on the plane. What aircraft is it?

If you want to make your cables adjustable put the threaded coupler on the servo end not the flying surface end. It'll look much neater.

Im building an Albatros DIII and wanted the cables to look scale on the elevator.
Thanks,Barzini

As Bob says, a good first step is just to put clevises and threaded rods and that sort of standard RC accessories on the servo/bellcrank side of the pull-pull system. This can be a bit of a pain but pain is what scale is all about.

But to take things to the next level you need to look at precisely how the cabling was done on the particular aircraft you are modeling. Many aircraft had a turnbuckle right at the end of the cable that slotted into control horn. Others (like the Albatros CI) incorporated a "lead" with another turnbuckle that attached to a longer control cable. Matz, posted some photos and links of the DIII horns and the special ball-end turnbuckle they used in my CI thread. By the way, I may be mistaken, but weren't the elevators on the DIII operated by a hidden lever, i.e. no external cables? The rudder used cables.

Oh, and if you're going to go the route of using turnbuckles on for functional purposes, then you absolutely need to use the (scale) locking wire to make sure the turnbuckle doesn't come apart. [X(]

Don, you have it backwards. The rudder was operated by a tiller (no external cables) and the elevator by external cables. If you want to see it go to The Aerodrome and search on Koloman Mayerhofers D.III full scale builds.

I like the turnbuckle idea.Looks like Dubro has them.How do I hook the cable to it? Inside the fuselage where it doesn't matter how it looks I put the wire through the horn back through the sleeve then around and back through the sleeve again just to be sure it stays.But outside the fuselage that same hookup to the turnbuckle would be kind of ugly.Does anyone have pictures of a neater connection?
Thank You, Barzini

Maybe this will help.
Balsa usa has a cable termination system. Might be in order for you. Of course, tools like this may not be worth the expense if this is the only project you will have of this type.

http://shop.balsausa.com/category_s/141.htm

Opps! I seem to be doing that a lot lately!

On my 1/6 scale models all I do is cut a length of aluminum tube, slip the cable through it, slip the cable through the turnbuckle/horn, then back through the aluminum tube. No doubling back. I then crip it at 2-3 places with a dulled cutting tool. I've never had one of these cables pull loose. On a larger model, 1/4 or 1/3 scale, I'd be inclined to use some more serious crimping system. Also bear in mind that "crimped" or "braided" areas on the actual aircraft were often wrapped in fabric so you can hide a non-scale crimped tube.

Here are a couple of pix of rudder connections one using turnbuckles the other just cable. The cable one uses cromps the turnbuckle one is wrapped and soldered which is my preferred method. These both use dual cables as did the full scale but the idea is the same for single cable apps.
Doc

Get your turnbuckles (and other fittings) from Proctor-enterprises.com. Although not perfect, they are better looking than the ones you mentioned. Mick Reeves might have some nice offerings for you, too. Very nice to do business with them.

Lots of model boat sites have turnbuckles, I use Proctors a lot. Those are Proctor on the pic above. Also following the example set by Teus I have purchased a mess of hex brass and round rod and some left hand threading tools to try making my own.
Doc