marnochs

Been working on the Jump Doors. Top guide is 1/8"x1/4" rectangle StripStyrene tube and the top rail is 3/32" H section from Plastruct. I just set up a guide for my dremel tool cutoff wheel and made a grove in the rectangle tube.
Lower guide is 1/8" square tube from StripStyrene that I cut another groove in alittle off center. The lower rail is 1/8" brass C channel from K&S metal. Next on the list is the front doors and the utility door.

marnochs

And the Utility door..... used Nelson Hobby 5/8" piano hinge. The door latch is from Hobby Lobby (best hatch latch)

bob_peterson

My Feedback: (2)

Looking great! You are moving right along. Thanks for posting all the pictures.

marnochs

Thanks Bob,

Its getting closer, I want to try and have primer on the fuse by the end of August and I think I might make it.

Here's the latest... front door installation. Will be using 1/16 dia screws and nuts for the hinge hardware instead of the pins. They were just so I could glue the hinges in place.
Formed the hinge plates out of .060 sheet fiberglass. Used Rubberized CA to glue them in. Will install a stiffener on front side of door between the two hinge plates, its a little flexy as it is.

marnochs

started to work on the cowl fuselage area, plus I wanted to see what it would look like with some primer on it. I did find that the firewall wasn't quite flat, so I mixed up some epoxy and milled glass and filled in the gap. I used a piece of glass with some mold release agent on it. must not have put enough on it because it still did a good job of sticking to the glass in a couple of spots. took a while to vacuum up the broken glass..... .
Used Bondo to float off the low spots.

tks1

My Feedback: (1)

This is great everyone. Nice builds. The pics are really going to help with my build.

Closterman mentioned that there were some changes to the kit to reinforce the front end as well as changing the elevator to 2 servos. Does anyone have any pics of this - specifically the 2 servos for the elevator?

Thanks again all.
TKS1

marnochs

Hi tks1,

In my kit, there was the option to install part # FUN1 or FUN2 (step 7 of the fuslage build- PC6-Manual-Rev2.pdf) for single or dual elevator servo. I went with the single elevator servo and used a Hitec HS-5745( rudder also).

Worked on the elevator filet, just used good old Bondo again and smoothed it out. I did find that if i ligned area on the elevator (in the inside too) with masking tape the bondo released much better, plus it gave me a consistant gap.

tks1

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks marnochs.

What would be the advantage of going with 2 hi torque servos as opposed to 1 giant scale servo?

tks1

marnochs

Main advantage is redundancy on pitch control. Lose and aileron or rudder servo - no big deal, lose the elevator and then you get to try to fly the airplane with the throttle and/or flaps for pitch control (but probabably not for long). This being said, I opted for the less redundant single servo mainly because I didn't want to split the elevator shaft and install a second hinge point (like on the Beaver- page2 -post 28). I was toying with the idea of placing 2 servos in the stab itself but would have had to use mini servos, but I didn't think they would be up to the job.
I plan on doing through preflights on the control systems and also the Eagletree inflight Telemery system will signal if the electrical system starts drawing too much current ( main battery current sensor along with main battery voltage sensor and receiver voltage sensor {after the voltage regulator}). I have the same system on my 1/3 scale Ventus 2ax and it provides "piece of mind" while flying ( 25lbs of Sailplane )

tks1

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks again marnochs.


tks1

marnochs

Here's a screen shot of some of the data that you get realtime with the Eagletree system. Right now the only problem is that you have to look at the screen while your flying. I have a friend call off the airspeed on the initial flights to find out where the stall speed is. I have low voltage alarms set for the battery and receiver voltage.

Pink - Altitude
Gray - Airspeed
Green - Receiver voltage - after the 6 volt regulator
Brown - Battery pack voltage

marnochs

Worked alittle on the engine cooling baffles. Used two part expanding foam to fill the area between the two balsa pieces. You can tell which side was the first go round and which was the second. Need to smooth it all out and will do a light fiberglass (1.4oz) cover over it all. Extended the top of the scoop with 1/64 ply and will fiberglass it in as well.

tks1

My Feedback: (1)

Looks good marnochs. Is the fuse glassed already? Im presuming that is grey primer on it?

tks1

marnochs

Hi tks1,

Fusalage was glassed back in July, (posts 68 &72 ). Used a really nice high build Urethane(catylized) primer my friend in the Auto body biz recommended. Only problem, its $10 for a 16 oz can - one coat on the fuse took one can. Oh well....

I did find one nice thing on my cowl attachment, I wont have to drill access holes ( in the lower scoop ) to get to the lower cowl attach bolts. I can reach them from the prop shaft area. The 12in. long allen driver I found on line had a ball link end on it.

Scott

marnochs

finished up on the tail wheel assy. To make the wheel cover I used a spray paint can as the mold for the curved top part. The paint can was just a little larger than the 2.5" tail wheel. I just glued the wheel cover inplace at the front and used 0.08" carbon rod at back supports. The CA glue is the rubberized black stuff. I switched out the 1/8" ply plate in favor of some 0.125 carbon plate I got at the AMA show from The Composite Store booth. Also checked on the tail wheel stearing cable routing and patched up the extra holes I made in the process.

Got around to drilling the holes for the lower wing strut attach fittings. I dont like the way the 2-56 sockets head screws look so I have some pan head screws on order.

tks1

My Feedback: (1)

This is great marnochs. All your build updates (especially the pics) will be a huge help to me.

tks1

tks1

My Feedback: (1)

... and I just pirated all your pics onto my computer for future reference when I am building

Thanks again marnochs for all the details.

tks1

shafs

RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

marnochs

Thanks guys, I hope the information speeds your construction.

Got some more work done on the Firewall forward area and wing struts. Had to make another fusalage wing strut attachment piece, I wasn't paying attention and cut too much off on one side. In the pictue of the lower strut fitting/fusalage attach, you can see a black line on the front. That's so I know where to measure from.Attachment hardware is 4-40 Top strut fitting are temp. glued in place until I get 1 inch long 2-56 pan head machine screws.
Fuel tank tray is so the tank can be centered over the CG and still be level. I have to get a velcro strap to hold it in place. Also will line it with 1/4" foam.
Finally bit the bullet and cut a exahust hole in the cowl. I did have to use some Hi-Temp silicone tubing to make it possible to get the cowl on and off.
Had to put some white tips on the propeller.

Sluf7

`Nice work very nice work gotta love a Porter.[8D][8D][8D][8D]

marnochs

Thanks Sluf7,

I'm have'n a very good time with this airplane. Might be going a bit overboard with the engine cooling. The guys at Revolution Engines told me to make sure I had air directed around the cylinder......... so that's what I'm doing.
Fabricated the rear engine baffles and made use of the 10-24 threaded hole in the middle rear of the cylinder. The cross brace center is just a 10 size 1/2" unthreaded aluminum standoff that I laminated a bunch of fiberglass and carbon tow to. still have some triming to do on the right post mount ( the band saw should make quick work of that once the epoxy sets up). The whole assy will get a coating of BVM heat shield (water based ceramic coating - http://bvmjets.com/Tools/heatshield.htm )
Also a shot of the completed fuel tank assy.

bob_peterson

My Feedback: (2)

You do fantastic work I am really impressed. Thanks for the great pictures! What size tank are you using and will you need a pump to get the fuel from the tank to the engine. This is my first gas engine installation and some details on the fuel consumption, etc I do not have. I finally, got the Evolution 45GX2 engine installed. It is not as clean an installion as yours and it has been a challenge with getting the cowling and all to fit. I need to beef up the back side of the firewall a bit more with some trianglar pieces and epoxy. What do you use for fuel proofing? I was going to use some polyurhene. You are a great help.

marnochs

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the compliment. The gas tank I'm using is a Dubro S-40 (40 oz.) tank. I'm thinking it will give me about 50 - 80 min. flying/towing time. Fuel usage is between 1 to 1.5 oz/min at full throttle per the manual.
I have a 26cc gas engined UltraStick and it flys for more than 30 min on a 12 oz tank. Most of the time I fly at 1/2 throttle any way, plus with the big planes its imporant to excersize throttle management. In the Revolution manual, they recommend a 20 oz tank. The nice thing about gas engines is the carburetor has a pump mechanism built into it so you can place the tank at the center of gravity. On my 26cc gas engine I just turn the choke on and flip the prop about 7-10 times to draw the fuel up the the engine, then turn on the ignition. Then engine will pop once, then turn the choke off and flip again and it breaths to life. (really simlar to starting my gas powered weed wacker ).
Back on posts # 52 and 54 you can see the firewall reinforcment I did and then I just gave it a coat of WestSystems Epoxy to fuelproof it all. The inside reinforceing ring is made out of two 1/8" 5-ply plywood pieces laminated togather. I also added acouple of 1/8" Ply reinforcing pieces on the inside of the sheeting ( inbetween the rails ). I would have done as Martin suggested ( incorporated in new kit ) and used 1/8" ply to sheet the forward ares but I all ready had it sheeted. I also added some fiberglass reinforcment to the firewall / rails area.

Glad to hear you got the engine mounted, that's a big hurdle to get past.

Scott

ISGUNN

I just found this build on your PC-6 and it's great.I likewise have the short kit and plans and will be starting this winter.I like your choice of motors and looks like I'll go that way as well.A loot of good ideas and the removable tail is high on my list.All you guys are doing a job.Can not wait to see finished pics and flight shots as well.
Cheers,
Ian Gunn
MAAC 25307

marnochs

Hi Ian,
Glad to hear your going to start your Porter and that the images are helpful.

Doing some final "major" items before fuslage detailing starts, decided on the cowl hot air exits and cut them out. Mounted the canister pipe tunnel and hot air exits. You can see on the lower left corner of the pipe tunnel, on the firewall, the cutouts for the spark plug wire/ timing wire and the Cylinder head temperature probe wire. The ignition timing module is going to go on the inside of the fuselage under the pipe tunnel.
Filled in the turbine exahust ducts with expanding foam so there wont be too much drag from the big open cavity. Next in the list is .....sanding

Scott