Junkers J10
#2
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From: Honolulu, HI
I don't have a source of plans for you but I wanted to make you aware of the Junkers website in case you didn't know about it.
You might find other useful info there....I love the Ju-52 and am building one.....found lots of cool stuff there.
www.junkers.de.vu
Uncle
You might find other useful info there....I love the Ju-52 and am building one.....found lots of cool stuff there.
www.junkers.de.vu
Uncle
#4

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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
Has anyone built Dick Allen's Junkers J10 from M.A.N. plans, or bought the precisioncutkits J10 parts? I'd be interested in any observations comments or suggestions. Anyone know of plans for a Junkers D.I?
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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
Thought I would try and stir some interest in this airplane: There's booming interst at my field in WWI - mostly Balsa USA kits. Guys are doing lot's of simulated dog fights, formation flying, fun flys, etc. I was looking for quick build monoplane that's not too common, looks like a good performer, good platform for smoke, bombs, and bailout pilots! Also needed a semi-scale WWI plane that will outfly the BUSA planes and one I wont be afraid to really mix it up. I've started building a Junkers J10 from M.A.N. plans, designed by Dick Allen and drawn by Ralph Jackson in 1999. I'd encourage anyone with a kit or two behind them who wants a relatively simple semi-scale WWI warbird to check it out! The plans are pretty self explanatory although some details are a bit sketchy. I've nearly finished the wing in about 15 hours. If there's interest I can continue to post some pics as I go. I do plan on putting a more scale flying rudder (rather than the fin-rudder design Mr. Allen chose). Two other departures from scale are constant thickness wing and no corrugations. I'm curious - has anyone know of a detailed scale build of this plane? There's not a lot in the literature but I think it is a really interesting "crate" that's not (in my humble opinion) as ugly as many people think!
#6
I have a building project underway to build the Junkers D.I at 1/4 scale. The first phase is fabricating a roller die to form the corrugated sheets. I'm about half way through building the die and I'll get more work done this coming winter.
Jan
Jan
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From: Bourbonnais , IL
I have the Junkers J10 built from the MAN Dick Allen plans. It flies pretty good and I did use Precison Cut Kits to cut it. In fact I sent them the MAN plans in 2000 and he cut two at that time. Using a Fujji 43 and it handles it fine. I build for strenght not light, and it came out about 21 lbs, my fault. Needed 3/12 lbs in nose to balance. Still flies good. Had a guy from Mich make the gear, it is spring loaded and works great, he is no longer around. One warning, there is an error in the plans or way Precision cut the formers for the hatch, they are 1/2 in to narrow. I just added stringers all the way around the bottom and it came out ok. Will ty to attach some pictures in a few days.
#9

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From: Bourbonnais , IL
Sethhunter, I just remembered if you go on Balsa USA web site under the events and picture gallery, near the end of the photos is a picture of the plane and a short fat guy (me) knelling next to it.
#10
I would like to build one for practice & for fun?
I found the website that sells the plans (RCstore.com)
Junkers J-10 Tin Donkey
Description: Designed by Dick Allen, this strong, relatively light Junkers J-10 Tin Donkey is an IMAA-legal, 1/5-scale German WW I monoplane. Construction is of typical balsa and ply, and the model features plug-in wing panels and is easy to build and fly.
Additional Information: WS: 87 in.; L: 63 in.; engine: 35 to 42 cc gas; 3 sheets;
Difficulty Level: LD2
PRICE: $24.95
fsp0100a
Ordering options: (888) 235-2021
I found the website that sells the plans (RCstore.com)
Junkers J-10 Tin Donkey
Description: Designed by Dick Allen, this strong, relatively light Junkers J-10 Tin Donkey is an IMAA-legal, 1/5-scale German WW I monoplane. Construction is of typical balsa and ply, and the model features plug-in wing panels and is easy to build and fly.
Additional Information: WS: 87 in.; L: 63 in.; engine: 35 to 42 cc gas; 3 sheets;
Difficulty Level: LD2
PRICE: $24.95
fsp0100a
Ordering options: (888) 235-2021
#11

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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
Hi All,
Jumpinjan - yes that is the same plane I am building and k3 valley flyer built. The cover of profile publication 187 above shows the J10; same as the CL.I. I believe J10 was the Junkers factory designation, and CL.I was the Army designation. The DI is the same as the J.9; appears to be a single-place version of the J10. Hows that for confusion!
Thanks K3 for the heads up on the weight - I'd really like to keep it under 18 lbs but it sounds like building the tail light is essential. That's a great looking plane. What did you finish it with? I'm tempted to lengthen the nose or shift the wing back a bit to reduce ballast.
Jumpinjan - keep an eye on your weight. I considered rolling some corrugated foil but given the area on the plane, the weight calculations did not look good unless I used very thin gauge. Decided I would opt instead for balsa strips if I went that route. But having just finished one very scale model (Pfalz DIII.a) I just wanted something simple. I'd love to see pictures of how your corrugations come out.
Jumpinjan - yes that is the same plane I am building and k3 valley flyer built. The cover of profile publication 187 above shows the J10; same as the CL.I. I believe J10 was the Junkers factory designation, and CL.I was the Army designation. The DI is the same as the J.9; appears to be a single-place version of the J10. Hows that for confusion!
Thanks K3 for the heads up on the weight - I'd really like to keep it under 18 lbs but it sounds like building the tail light is essential. That's a great looking plane. What did you finish it with? I'm tempted to lengthen the nose or shift the wing back a bit to reduce ballast.
Jumpinjan - keep an eye on your weight. I considered rolling some corrugated foil but given the area on the plane, the weight calculations did not look good unless I used very thin gauge. Decided I would opt instead for balsa strips if I went that route. But having just finished one very scale model (Pfalz DIII.a) I just wanted something simple. I'd love to see pictures of how your corrugations come out.
#12
Seth,
When you are painting your CL.I, don't use the Profile journal for color reference, its not right. The colors are a pale mossy green and pale mauve and underside is white. I have performed a year's research on the CL.I & D.I and I sure I have the facts correct now.
On the sheetmetal, I'm using tempered .008" lithoplate for most of the wings & fuselage, and .005" for the tail.
When you are painting your CL.I, don't use the Profile journal for color reference, its not right. The colors are a pale mossy green and pale mauve and underside is white. I have performed a year's research on the CL.I & D.I and I sure I have the facts correct now.
On the sheetmetal, I'm using tempered .008" lithoplate for most of the wings & fuselage, and .005" for the tail.
#14
Ballgunner said, "RC Model Builder volume 10, number 101 - June 1980 has a good set of plans by Dick Allen. It is sport scale. Span 60" for a 46/60 two stroke. Wing and fuselage exact scale, tail feathers enlarged for stability"
I'm curious, where does one get the plans? Does RC Model Builder sell them?
Now, is this plan set for the Junkers D.I or the CL.I?
The 60" span for the D.I model would be 1/5.93 scale; The 60" span for the CL.I would be 1/7.9 scale. Another interesting point, that I found, is a 1/5 scale Junkers CL.I should have a 94.8" wing span and not the 87" span as noted in the Dick Allen plans. Something is goofy here?
Jan
I'm curious, where does one get the plans? Does RC Model Builder sell them?
Now, is this plan set for the Junkers D.I or the CL.I?
The 60" span for the D.I model would be 1/5.93 scale; The 60" span for the CL.I would be 1/7.9 scale. Another interesting point, that I found, is a 1/5 scale Junkers CL.I should have a 94.8" wing span and not the 87" span as noted in the Dick Allen plans. Something is goofy here?
Jan
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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
Maybe not: Jim Morrow's drawing in Air Classics May 1979 shows the J10 wingspan 36' 1-1/4, which yields a 86.65" model at 1/5 scale.
Jumpinjan, can you share the source of your color information?
Jumpinjan, can you share the source of your color information?
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From: Bourbonnais , IL
Sethhunter, mine is finished in solartex and Nelson paints. No particular color scheme followed, used light brown on bottom and olive drab and gray, white. I build them to fly, not into scale details.
#17
ORIGINAL: Sethhunter
Maybe not: Jim Morrow's drawing in Air Classics May 1979 shows the J10 wingspan 36' 1-1/4, which yields a 86.65" model at 1/5 scale.
Maybe not: Jim Morrow's drawing in Air Classics May 1979 shows the J10 wingspan 36' 1-1/4, which yields a 86.65" model at 1/5 scale.
I have found many errors in the Jim Morrow drawings. They look pretty good, but you know they were made 40-50 years ago.
The color info is referrenced from the following (just to name a few):
- Over The Front, vol20, #1, spring 2005, color rendering by Mr R. Pearson
-Winsock Datafile 33, Mr Peter Grosz
-Recommendations from Mr Dan Abbott
#18

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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
A few more pics of progress on my J10. I decided to build a full flying rudder rather than the fin-rudder combo on the plans. Also changed the hatch design so it includes the whole cowl rather than just the top - increasing access to the engine and eliminating the need to bend the fuselage sides. Several areas seemed to light-weight for my taste: I beefed-up and sheeted the trailing edge of the stab. Added diagonal ribs to the elevator to increase torsional stiffness. I also felt the lack of bulkheads and limited structure along the top of the fuselage invites bowing and buckling so I beefed up the top of the sides with balsa and ply. Added stubby 1/4 ply doublers on each side of the firewall and hardwood triangle stock to tie the front together more solidly. I moved the wing aft 3/4" to improve balance. I didn't notice until too late the aft LG attachment point is much farther forward than scale, and looks alittle odd to my eye but decided to leave it where it is since this is not a serious scale project. Also be careful the LG layout on the drawing does not show enough metal to go completely through WB wheels; lengthen to suit.
The rudder post is double sleeved brass tubing with a core of carbon fiber for stiffness; its important to make sure the post wont flex under aerodynamic load causing the rudder base to bind against the fuse. The post fits a tube in the fuse and emerges on the bottom, where I'll fit a control horn and spring-links to the tail wheel.
On the whole a nice looking airplane, easy to build and coming along nicely!
The rudder post is double sleeved brass tubing with a core of carbon fiber for stiffness; its important to make sure the post wont flex under aerodynamic load causing the rudder base to bind against the fuse. The post fits a tube in the fuse and emerges on the bottom, where I'll fit a control horn and spring-links to the tail wheel.
On the whole a nice looking airplane, easy to build and coming along nicely!
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From: winter park,
FL
Wow...good to see some others building this plane. I have been through a lot with my J-10. (Dick Allen plans) As stated earlier, the plans are in error concerning the bulkheads on the front of fuse (hatch) they are too short... Here are some photos and story of my J-10.....It now has a G-62 in it, hasn;t flown for over a year either- I really wish it had a flat bottom wing, it will stall and drop out of the sky on a deadstick if you try to float it in- mostly because mine is overweight at 22 Lbs !! You MUST keep the tail light !!
Pictures and story here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324039
Anyone know how/where I can build a flat bottomed wing for this plane?
BTW She's for sale, RTF if anyone is interested....
Pictures and story here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=324039
Anyone know how/where I can build a flat bottomed wing for this plane?
BTW She's for sale, RTF if anyone is interested....
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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
Thanks I-fly-coolers!
That's a great looking J10. What a rebuild - sure came out nice. Thanks for the warning about tail weight. I always say I'm going to keep the tail light, and then forget somewhere along the line! I did move the wing back 3/4 to help in that regard. I've been thinking about power, leaning toward a Fuji 43 with side mount Bisson but it is tight width-wise. Maybe better to lengthen the nose an inch or so and sneak a wrap around muffler behind it - that would help with balance as well.
BTW - I'm surprised the plans call for Gnome cylinders. I bought 'em without thinking and then realized the original had a merc. 160.
That's a great looking J10. What a rebuild - sure came out nice. Thanks for the warning about tail weight. I always say I'm going to keep the tail light, and then forget somewhere along the line! I did move the wing back 3/4 to help in that regard. I've been thinking about power, leaning toward a Fuji 43 with side mount Bisson but it is tight width-wise. Maybe better to lengthen the nose an inch or so and sneak a wrap around muffler behind it - that would help with balance as well.
BTW - I'm surprised the plans call for Gnome cylinders. I bought 'em without thinking and then realized the original had a merc. 160.
#21
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From: winter park,
FL
Well if you can keep the weight down- (DON'T use 21st Century Fabric !! ) I would suggest the US 41cc with the Bennet muffler- it was a nice fit and they can be bought used for $175 or less, originally I flew with the 41. but after the rebuild it gained 2+ pounds mostly from the 21st
century fabric- It barely flew afterwards and I put in the G62, removed the 41 and 1 lb of lead in the nose- Haven't flown it since the G62 was installed though
century fabric- It barely flew afterwards and I put in the G62, removed the 41 and 1 lb of lead in the nose- Haven't flown it since the G62 was installed though
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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
While waiting for paint to dry, I thought I would build a Mercedes engine rather than use the WB Gnome cylinders. The build time is probably less than the amount of time I'd spend explaining the Gnome at the field!! The last mercedes I built for my Pfalz DIII/a was from a Proctor kit. I decided to scratch build this using by resin casting the cylinders, manifold flanges, and rocker parts. (The dowl sticking out of the mold in the second picture is wrapped in plastic wrap so it can be pulled out of the cylinder casting, producing a hollow cylinder to center to save weight.) The bevel gear housing and other bits are balsa, plastic tubing, dowls and wire. Muffler is made using a 1/16 plywood pattern/core, with foam cheeks top and bottom, whittled to shape, glassed and painted. I use textured rustoleum to give it a cast-look. The short dowls are hardpoints to drill and pin the muffer to the cylinder.
#24
...I've started painting.
The correct colors for the Junkers CL.I & D.I are a pale moss green and pale grayish-mauve with white undersides.
Jan
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From: Princeton Junction,
NJ
Thanks for the repeated warnings! If I were overly concerned with scale, I wouldn't build this design either. I do plan to come somewhat close to the profile colors. I wasn't able to locate your sources. Thanks again.



