Plan Transfer - Help
#1
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From: Forestville, AUSTRALIA
I am just about to start my first attempt at building from a plan which will be a Pilatus PC-6.
I am trying to work out the best way to transfer the shape of the wing ribs etc to the balsa. Now that carbon paper is a thing of the past, what is the preferred method by experienced modellers.
Thanks
Jody
I am trying to work out the best way to transfer the shape of the wing ribs etc to the balsa. Now that carbon paper is a thing of the past, what is the preferred method by experienced modellers.
Thanks
Jody
#2

My Feedback: (2)
You can get your plans coppied and then take the copy and cut the parts out, spray them with an light spray adhesive and attach them directly to the wood. Or you can try ironing your plans onto the wood. Sometimes there is sufficent ink to make the transfer.
#3
I've heard you can print using a laser printer (which uses toner) in reverse and then place the paper face down on the wood and iron it. This transfers the toner to the balsa.
You can also make a master template out of hardwood (or even aluminum) and then use that to cut the balsa (for example, the ribs).
You can also make a master template out of hardwood (or even aluminum) and then use that to cut the balsa (for example, the ribs).
#4

Freedomsport:
If you live in an area that has a blueprinting/copying company they will make you a second set of plans reasonably cheap, then you can use it for templates to cut out, if not Kinkos will help you. These days with digital copiers they can due amazing things, reverse copies, enlarge, reduce, etc. Good luck!
If you live in an area that has a blueprinting/copying company they will make you a second set of plans reasonably cheap, then you can use it for templates to cut out, if not Kinkos will help you. These days with digital copiers they can due amazing things, reverse copies, enlarge, reduce, etc. Good luck!
#5
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My Feedback: (1)
I normally get a copy of the plans made, then cut the parts from the copy and stick them to the wood using a glue stick (you can also use rubber cement ). Cut your parts about 1/16" OUTSIDE of the line and sand to the line.
For multiples of the same part, use a glue stick to adhere the pieces of wood together (you may need to clamp them with cothspins for about 20 minutes to get the pices to adhere together). After you have cut and sanded the part(s), CAREFULLY use a #11 blade to separate the pieces. Normally you can see where two pieces are together. Use the edge of the #11 blade to separate the pieces. The pieces usually will pop apart. If not, use a SLIGHT pressue from your fingers to hold the pieces slightly apart and run the blade between the pieces.
I have found that the glue stick does not affect gluing the pieces and that once the glue stick has dried it is not sticky or gummy.
The other option (if you REALLY like to work at it, is to place theplans over the piece of wood, then using a T pin, poke holes all around the outline of the part. Take the plans off and "connect the dots".
For multiples of the same part, use a glue stick to adhere the pieces of wood together (you may need to clamp them with cothspins for about 20 minutes to get the pices to adhere together). After you have cut and sanded the part(s), CAREFULLY use a #11 blade to separate the pieces. Normally you can see where two pieces are together. Use the edge of the #11 blade to separate the pieces. The pieces usually will pop apart. If not, use a SLIGHT pressue from your fingers to hold the pieces slightly apart and run the blade between the pieces.
I have found that the glue stick does not affect gluing the pieces and that once the glue stick has dried it is not sticky or gummy.
The other option (if you REALLY like to work at it, is to place theplans over the piece of wood, then using a T pin, poke holes all around the outline of the part. Take the plans off and "connect the dots".
#6
I have also heard of putting acetone or alcohol (better search to be sure which one) on the wood and pressing the wood onto the plans (laser printed type so the toner will transfer to the wood). I have not done this so wait for others to respond before attempting it.
I've used the "connect the dots" method Campy described and it was not too bad or time consuming.
I've used the "connect the dots" method Campy described and it was not too bad or time consuming.
#7
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From: Forestville, AUSTRALIA
Thanks for the help.
I will make a few copies and see how I go.
I also found some thin plastic used on the covers of reports which may do the trick.
All the best
Jody
I will make a few copies and see how I go.
I also found some thin plastic used on the covers of reports which may do the trick.
All the best
Jody
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From: Mason,
MI
Get some freezer paper, put a piece over your plans and trace your parts onto the paper side ( there is a paper side and a "plastisized" side). Cut them out roughly to shape and then iron the tracing (Plastisized side against the wood) onto your wood. You will have to experiment a bit with the heat to get the right adhesion. The traced part is now adhered to the wood and, if properly applied, will stick there very well while you cut and sand to shape. When the part is done, the tracing will peel off easily. It may take a little experimentation but once you get the "hang of it" it is quite easy and quick. I have also had success scanning the part(s) and printing them onto the paper with my printer but that is another story.
#9
I just use tracing paper. Trace the part with a soft pencil, flip the paper over & run over the outline with the pencil on the back of the paper, then turn it right way up again, place it on the wood & run over the outline again.
Sort of like home made carbon paper. It's convienient to buy the paper on a roll at the supermarket as greaseproof paper.
Flew in a Turbo Porter to a NZ glacier during a recent holiday, great experience! - John.
Sort of like home made carbon paper. It's convienient to buy the paper on a roll at the supermarket as greaseproof paper.
Flew in a Turbo Porter to a NZ glacier during a recent holiday, great experience! - John.
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From: Lake Ronkonkoma,
NY
All of the previous suggestions sound good, but I live in the past and still think that the simplest solution is carbon paper. Although it has been a couple of years, I ordered mine from one of the outfits that market plans for profile lawn decorations. Might be a little pricey if I remember correctly, but you can reuse the same sheet a number of times to cut down the life-cycle cost. I would identify the source, but I am currently 3,000-miles away from home and my memory sure ain't what it used to was. Maybe one of the other forum-ites may be familiar with one of the outfits I'm talking about. If not, I'll post it when I return hime in a couple of weeks (if I remember).



