p 40

p 40

excuse me

rwright142

No need to apologize.
We will refer to many pictures when we begin working on the cockpit.

p 40

hi chad you have received the my new mail hi

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

A small update on progress. My wife had minor surgery this past Wednesday and, due to a slower than normal recovery, I've not been able to get out of the house much. This has prevented me from making much progress on the last few tail kits. However, it has provided opportunity to do some vacuum forming and I have the first stab tip completed. I'm happy with the results though I will be making a few minor adjustments. Unfortunately, I can't get my digital camera to zoom in tight enough to get a shot of the detail. (even on Macro)

As you recall, this is what we were attempting to achieve.



Here is my prototype. You can't see it but the internal stiffeners are molded into the interior part of the tip.



Here it is with the elevator in place. Maybe, if you squint real hard, you might get a faint glimpse of the detail I was talking about above. I'll finish it up and shoot some primer on it and maybe it will be easier to photograph.



I'll leave it to you guys to decide if it is worth the effort but it is quite visible when the elevator is deflected. A few screw heads and some weathering should really make it stand out although, admittedly, it may not be one of those items that gets noticed alot on the finished airplane. Still, I dig this stuff so I'm going to forge ahead!

p 40

[sm=tongue_smile.gif][sm=tongue_smile.gif]GOOD CHAD TE AND' VERY BEAUTIFUL

SMUGator

Those details on the stab and elevator look really nice, Chad. That will be a great add to get those surfaces to stand out.

I did get the [link=http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80822]Stay Brite Silver Solder from Micromark[/link] yesterday and had a few minutes to give it a little test tonight on some scrap plate steel and music wire. After the standard sanding and cleaning, I clamped the "arm" in place, applied a drop of flux and heated the music wire to red with a propane torch. Just a touch of the solder to the music wire is plenty to fill. It takes a few minutes to cool, so leave it a alone for a bit.

Afterwards, it withstood the old "can I clamp this in the vise and break it with a pair of channel locks" test, so I'm pretty happy with that result. I'd be willing to make some torque rods for others if needed now that I know how to do it.

Tom

SMUGator

Hi Danny,

What are the advantages of the 2 control horn set-up vs a single control horn connected with a metal clevis? I'll likely build mine in the next couple of weeks, and I'm interested to hear why you chose this set-up.

Thanks in advance,
Tom

Remklep

It server 3 purposes, firstly having 2 control horns makes them redundant in case of failure, offcourse, this means I'll have to check the horn's regularly.

Secondly, because of the size of the control horns the torque on the silver-solder will be substantial, so spreading the torque over 2 horns gives me some ease of mind.
According to a little servo torque program I have, the torque required to deflect the elevators at 15 deg at 150 km/h is 6 kgcm.
However, at the silversolder the radius is not 1 cm, but just 4 mm, therefore, the silver solder will have to be cope with 6/0.4 = 15 kg or 150 N of force, so spreading that out over 2 control horns, halves the force to 75 N.
I know 15 deg deflection at 150 km/h is a lot, but in these extreme circumstances it is stupid to loose the plane because of a $2 dollar part.

Lastly, I intend to use metal ball-links.
Clamping the ball-link between 2 control-rods completely eliminates any torque acting on the bolt that goes through the ball-link. Therefore it can only fail if the servo or aerodynamic forces exceed the maximum shear the bolt can take.

Cheers,

Remklep

For the rudder control horn I will do the same, but I will make a pull-pull system.
So 2 control horns going to either side of the control-rod, with metal ball-links in between.

Tom,
Be sure you remove any traces of the flux after the part has cooled down.
Flux is very aggresive and any flux left on the part will cause severe corrosion in time.

Cheers,

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

NOTE TO TAIL BUILDERS:
Just a heads up guys, thanks to our Beta builder Richard, we have found a small issue with part E19. Somehow I managed to copy over the wrong E19 from an outdated CAD file and so it is about 3/16 of an inch too narrow in chord. It should be flush with the leading edge of the elevator core "EC" and butt up tight against E1 but it's too narrow. The fix is simply to add about 3/16" to the back edge of it. Sorry for the mix up! It will be corrected from now on. Thanks again to Richard for bringing this to my attention.

Also, Richard noticed that my vac formed tip is a bit too blunt compared to the full size. I noticed this as well and will be refining the shape of the plug to a more correct profile as soon as I can. I will get them as close as I can prior to offering them for sale. Cheers!

p 40

hi you are busy a photo of the particular one see me because I have not understood well the message of chad. hi

p 40

I have to add to the E19 4.733mm. correct?

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Correct, should look like this.

p 40

HI CHAD POSSIBILE TO HAVE PHOTO YOUR ASSEMBLAGE PIVOT HINGE RUDDER AND ELEVATOR CIAO THANKS

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

My elevators are not hinged yet but I will be using Robart Hinge Points when the time comes. I will post a pic as soon as I have one hinged.

SMUGator

Thanks for the feedback, Danny. Based on the strengths of the joints I'm getting with silver solder, I'll probably use one horn on each control surface, but I can definitely see the appeal of your set-up. I think my main consideration with going with a single horn on the elevator is that I like the flexibility of being able to reach in from the bottom and snap a clevis on/off rather than needing to get a hex driver on a nut bolt combo. I don't find that I need to disconnect it a lot, but it's nice to be able to do it easily.

Tom

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Time for a quick update.

I'm making slow but steady progress on the last four tail kits which are for Joe, Rusty, Scott, and Tom. I'm probably about half done with all four and hope to wrap them up this week. I will be glad to be done with tail kits!

I also managed to make a start on the prototype fuselage yesterday. I'm building this one in two halves starting with the top first as I need the top to generate the template for the rear fuselage sheeting. As discussed before this is the fuse sheeting in the original Royal kit which forms the saddle for the horizontal stab so it needs to be very accurate. I did not have my camera so no pics but I'll get a few tomorrow.

Last but not least I've started doing some work on the instrument panel. As time permits I'm doing a drawing of each instrument in AutoCAD and then importing it into Illustrator to be colorized and detailed. It's time consuming but it's the best way I have found to get the right instruments at the right scale and in full color. Below are the airspeed and manifold pressure guages for review. I'm doing my best to make sure I've got the right instruments for the early F4U-1 version but if anyone sees any obvious errors please give a shout out. I realize that I'm getting ahead of myself a bit with this stuff but it's a nice change of pace from CAD work once in a while.

Chad

PS - If anyone has a good side view drawing of the cockpit layout I would love to see it. Something that shows the relationship between panel, seat, rudder pedals, bulkheads, etc.

p 40

CHAD can be useful the photos that I have sent. hi GIANLUCA

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Yes Gianluca, thank you.

Thanks also to Gene for his help.

Riddle4U

Chad, I may have been slow to order the tail kit. I am glad Richard did a good beta on it. Love the tip project! I'll PM you on the tail, I didn't mind being slow so you could work out some bugs. Thanks- Eric

SMUGator

Not exactly what you asked for, but I recommend [link=http://www.amazon.com/Roaring-Glory-Warbirds-Vought-Corsair/dp/B00000FDSZ]Roaring Glory Warbirds F4U Corsair video[/link] to all of you as an outstanding overview of maybe the only remaining flyable F4U-1A. Steve Hinton, a well known plane restorer and racer, takes us through the big birds paces starting with a typical preflight around the plane. Steve then climbs aboard, runs through the cockpit arrangement, fires her up and taxis to the end of the Planes of Fame airstrip. After taking off, Steve shows us the planes excellent flight capabilities and noting some of its limitations. Overall an excellent video, although a little short and for me not enough high speed flybys. However you will be impressed with Steves technical knowledge and the ease with which he delivers it. Oh yes, you get a short story involving a young WW2 pilot and his first flight in a Corsair. The re-enactment is a little hokey, but not bad. A WWII training video is included as well as a printable pilots handbook.

Tom

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Here's a couple of fuse pics. I'm just about far enough along that I can get the sheeting template made. So far so good.




Here's a close up of the rear end. The two stab saddles are only temporary and are needed to locate the stab accurately while I make up the sheeting template. They will not be necessary as part of the kit build and, in fact, they would take up too much valuable space. That is why I like the idea of the saddles being part of the fuse sheeting, it keeps the rear end less cluttered. Also in the pictures you can see how I've doubled up F10 so that the front one carries the sheeting and the stringers while the rear one is recessed for a doubler in the saddle area as well as having a notch that accepts the fin post.



Here it is with the fin and stab setting in place. Everything has lined up perfectly so far which means that something bad is probably right around the corner! [X(]



Last but not least, I had a couple of firewalls cut on the CNC router today. They are perfect and I should be able to get them all cut this way. I was also talking to the CNC operator about cutting a foam plug for the cowl and he thinks it will be no problem. I guess I need to get a Solidworks file made up for the cowl before he changes his mind!

rwright142

Looking good Chad. I like the changes to F10.

If you need any more cockpit info let me know.

Remklep

Wow Chad, Looking verygood.
I never imagined you were already so far into the fuse design.
I like the doubled up F-10, that add a lot more surface to glue the vertical stab to.

I like the custom building board too, good idea if you have to put it aside for a while to work on something else.
I believe I'm gonna ahem, "borrow", that idea from you.

Danny