WacoNut

Glassing should work fine. Get it close to smooth before glassing and then you can finsih smoothing out the surface after glassing with primer and spot putty.
Later!!
Anthony

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Anthony, My 1/3d has about seventy flights on it. I didn't fly it at all last year though as I "borrowed" the engine to put on my 1/3d Stearman. The Waco was built with competition in mind but the Stearman is just for sport so there's no "pressure" flying it. The Waco is much heavier and I can't say it doesn't fly well but the Stearman sort of dances in the air while the Waco is much firmer....sort of like flying a warbird.
As for the landing gear...I bent the carbon type on the maiden landing when I had a fairly big bounce. The legs (carbon part) was fine but the axle mounting tabs took a beating. When I straightened the gear in a vice using the armstrong method I was surprised how little force it took to unbend the damage. Just didn't seem to have the temper of the newer type gear. Could be just me but I've since had a few bouncers on the newer but with no damage. Gotta always keep some power into the flair!!!
My set up is CG at 30% MAC. The throws are elev + - 1 1/4 ", ailerons 1-1/4" up and 1/2" down and the rudder is 2". I've never done "hard" aerobatics with this one so the throws are for smoothness.
For the upper top front fuselage I used lithoplate directly over the balsa sheet with miniature screws holding it down as done with the full scale. There's really no need for strength there as the framework substructure does the load carrying. Same for the front sidepanels and scale cargo cover..switches, reciever and some of the battery system are in there...easy access.
I've gotten ahold of the "Guardian" three axis stabilizer and can't wait to try it out. It's kind of like a gyro and accelerometer combined. Although the Waco is rock soild it might make it even better...especially in crosswind work where I really suck. Winter has set into the Northeast so I won't be out until at least mid April. We'll see how it works.
Happy New Year everyone. Mitch

WacoNut

Thanks Mitch,
I didn't get enough flights on my Waco to really feel it out. I went well over a year without flying and didn't get enough practice in before flying the Waco and paid the price. Too low on power on final, should have powered up and went around. I have flown more in the last 8 months than the last 10yrs combined.

I am going to remove the belly pan from my gear and straighten the leg. It is tough and I am sure I will have to have a couple sets of hands helping.

I didn't realize your Waco was an early version kit.

Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

Long day at work and i don't feel like working on the plane but I took the night off lastnight.

I decided to tackle the bent landing gear. I am trying not to have to rebuild anymore of this plane than necessary so I am trying to save the gear and belly pan. More work than you would think in building and finishing these items.

As you will see in the 1st pic below you can see the gear leg on the right is bent out, this angle shows it very well. In order to bend the gear leg past the proper position to get it to stay I would have to bend the gear leg into the belly pan causing damage to the belly pan. I did a little cereful surgery to remove the belly pan from the landing gear. To my surprise I was able to remove it without causing any damage and it can be epoxied back into place after I straighten the landing gear. About time something went my way.

I will make an angle gauge from the other gear leg and use that to check the progress while bending the bent leg back into position. I will then measure the distance from the table to the axles to assure it is in the proper position. We have some serious "C" Clamps at work and I will be taking the gear to work tomorrow and clamping it down to a heavy work table and get a couple hefty guys to help me persuade the gear back into position.

That's about it for tonight but I wanted to at least accomplish something.
Anthony

acerc

You call that bent, Ha! The pick below, now that's bent.

WacoNut

Yep that is bent
Well at least I know I am not the only one rough on their Waco.

mango12

Hi Anthony, I have a few questions regarding the mounting of the top cabane.
When you assembled your wires, was there any play when you passed the bolt thru the brackets?
Did you enlarge the hole in the brackets to use a larger bolt?
The holes on the rod ends are for 10/32 bolts, but the holes on the aluminum brackets are 4/40 sized. How did you secure this? I have the top cabane in place, LEVEL, and the connectors bent and wire cut, but like you, I want to make absolutly certain I get this right the first time, before I do any final soldering. Thanks for your help.

WacoNut

Hi Scott,
You need to open the holes in the bracket up to accept a 10-32 bolt. You should also have a nice tight fit of the wires and tabs for the flying wires inbetween the brackets. Add a washer if necessary. You want to be assured the center section returns to the same position when remounted.
Later!!
Anthony

mango12

Thanks, that is what I thought. Have waited a really long time to build this airplane, ever since I first saw the Genesis version. Can't believe I have made it to the point of mounting the wings !! Still a long way to go, but it is progress. Hated the Pepino build that I started, never finished it. Can't wait to see yours finished again !!

WacoNut

Scott,
Those Pepino plans were a TPITA to build from. I can't blame you for not finishing. I wouldn't do that again for anything.

I was able to get my gear straightened out today. It was a bear, I had a guy at work help and it was all we could do to get the gear bent back. I weigh 220 and he is ever bit of 280 and we put all of out combined weight into it. A testament to how hard the plane hit.

I verified the angle of both legs and the distance from the mounting surface to both axles is equal. The eye test pass as well the gear looks level.

Going to work on odd and end stuff tonight to get the fuse ready for covering.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

On the old fuse the tube and sockets for the stab were in a bit of a bind, it was a PITA to get the stab mounted. I had the required items to redo the mounting so I went ahead and fixed it.

I put a level across the top of the fuse where the wings mount to assure I had the fuse sitting level. The new ply rigs for securing the glass tube sleeve and cardboard sleeve were positioned over the new sleeves and once everything was adjusted for level and square to the thrust line the new rings were epoxied in place. I placed a level on both sides of the stab and assured the bubbles remained centered during the procedure. Hopefully this time around the stab is easier to mount.

I am also working on removing the root ribs from all the outer wing panels. I will install new ribs and cap strips and repair sheeting as need. It won't take much work to have the wings ready for covering.

Lster!!
Anthony

bonanzadrv

My Feedback: (21)

looking good Anthony....

I got the robart tail gear today and yes it looks a bit soft.... Did you try to find a stiffer spring for it??? I might take a look and see if i can find one.
Kids and wife are sick today so will have to wait to start cutting the fuse up and mounting tail gear.
What wheel did you end up going with??? (I know you said your first one was soft)

Also been thinking about the covering. On the 1/3 scale cub I used the stits process.
Was very scale and good practice for when I cover my full scale project.
I am wanting to go a bit easier on this one, and am excited to see your covering method.

On the cub I used poly fiber lite glued down with poly tact. (good stuff but hard to get smooth on a model)
then I brushed on a coat of poly brush
then i brushed on the tapes with poly brush
then sprayed on a coat of poly brush over the tapes and surface.
then i sprayed the uva silver.
then i used rc 56 to add little bumps of glue (for stitches)
then sprayed white poly tone
then yellow poly tone...

It turned out well and not bad for a first try.... I am thinking about going with dope this time. been years since I have used dope for anything but I think it might be a touch easier.
Are you going to use poly c to fill weave this time around???

I am also going to try the premade stiches and tapes from pink it (so I can just iron them on)

I vote that thinking about it counts as working on it
Bill

WacoNut

Hi Bill,
I used the supplied spring if I remember corerctly. It does compress some when the tail sits on the ground but so does the fulls scale.

For the tail wheel I never changed it. Curtis (docadams) posted what wheel he used a page or two back. I am going to try one of those.

I am going to use Poly-Fiber lite uncertified fabric this time around attached with nitrate dope and fill the weave with Ploycrylic. I found that the weave fills easier on this than Sig Koverall. My stitches will be from Scale Rib Stitch, they are a Canadian company. The tapes will be from Gary at Pink-It.net

The Waco eats alot of tapes. The full scale has tapes over all the fuselage stringers as well. I forget how many feet of tape I used but I know it was over 200ft.

I have decided to paint the Waco with Klass-Kote paint this time around. I wll spray the entire plane with white primer then gloss white and mask and spray the gloss insignia blue. I will then pinstripe the plane and spray a gloss clear over the entire plane. Should be nice and shiney this time around.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

Bill,
Tail Wheel: 2 inch Sullivan Skylight wheel, this is what Curtis is using. I think I will go up to a 2-1/4" wheel.
Here are some links to the products I will be using.

Poly Fiber Lite Uncertified: [link=http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/cs/fabric/polyfiberuncertified.php]Aircraft Spruce[/link]

Nitrate Dope: [link=http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/randnitratedropclrhi.php]Dope [/link]

Rib Sticthing: [link=http://home.cablerocket.com/~scaleribstitch/]Scale Rib Stitching[/link]

Rib Tapes: [link=http://www.pink-it.net/]Pink-It Tapes[/link]

Klass-Kote Paint: [link=http://www.klasskote.com/]Klass Kote Paint[/link]

I will let you know how many feet of tape I use this time around.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

I am still working on the wing panels, 2 panels have the new ribs in 2 to go.


I want to put a smoke system in this time around and I am going to go ahead and do it while I am doing the repair. I do have a few questions as I have never installed a smoke system. What size oil tank should I use? I have a 50oz gas tank ond probably enough room for a 50oz smoke tank. I would like to have a good 5 minutes of smoke available. Also the muffles have a pressure fittings in them, do I just plumb to the pressure fittings to get the smoke oil into the mufflers? And lastly what kind of line do i want to use to plumb to the mufflers? Not sure what would hold up to the heat of the muffler connecting to the pressure fittings?

Any advice would be appreciated!!
Anthony

docadams

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Anthony,I used a Sullivan Skywriter pump for my Waco. If you use there system they will send you some tubing with the system but if you already have a pump and just need the lines, check valve etc. I would recommend you contact Dick Bennett. He actually sells a smoke pump with all the accessories but you have to drill the crankcase and use a pressure tap to operate the pump. I didn't want to do that so I am using the electric pump this time. I used his system on a stearman I had and it worked great. I am using a 32 oz. tank on the Waco. I used this size tank on my stearman and got about 3 - 5 minutes out of it depending on the way I use it. If you manage it you can stretch it to get 5 minutes. 50 oz. would be more than enough. I am attaching a few pics to show my setup. I put everything as far to the front as I could for weight purposes with the exception of the battery to operate the pump. The only reason it is not forward is because I used all the places for heavier batteries near the front for my two servo batteries and my ignition battery. I am attaching some pics for your viewing. There are two pics showing tank installation. One showing a plywood plate holding the tanks in place. This plate was also used to mount additional small batteries and switches/charging jacks for my lights and smoke pump. You will also notice that I made the top hatch on my Waco removable to make the plane more user friendly. Takes away a little scale touch but for me it was worth it. One more thing on the smoke lines. Make sure you keep the lines going to the mufflers the same length. This helps to distribute the smoke fluid equally to both mufflers, so I have been told. Hope this helps,Curtis

docadams

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Anthony,One more pic showing the actual smoke pump.

WacoNut

Thanks Curtis,
That helps a bunch. I do not have the smoke pump yet so good to know I get the lines with it. I actually bought a Bennit pump at Toledo a few years ago but did not want to drill into the 3W for pressure. Just couldn't bring myself to do it. I will see if I can shoehorn a 50ox oil tank in wiht the gas tank. If not I will put the biggest tank in that will fit.

I have the new ribs insatlled in the outer panels now I need to secure the carbon fiber anti-rotation tubes in place and repair the sheeting and cap strips. In another week or so I will have the Waco ready for covering.
Later!!
Anthony

hrrcflyer

Hello Anthony,

Your rebuild is going very well indeed. I cannot wait to see more pictures of it with air under her wings again. Keep up the great work................

David

WacoNut

Thanks David,

All the anti-rotation tubes are installed in the wing panels and everything fits up nicely. The stab tubes fit much better now as well. Not sure how I got them into a bind the last time around.

The wings just need some cap strips replaced and repair a couple pieces of sheeting and they will be as good as new. I still need to cut the Robart Hinges and drill them out.

One of the navigation light housings broke during the crash as well as the lens that a buddy had vaccumme formed for me. I had thought about leaving the lights off but that will not work for me. I will have to make a new housing and make a vaccumme box as my buddy has moved away. Plenty of time to complete that task.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

All the sheeting has been repaired. I will work on cutting and installing cap strips this evening. A few hours of sanding and the wings will be ready for fabric. I am looking forward to getting the fabric back on the Waco and start the finishing/detailing process.
Later!
Anthony

mango12

Hey Anthony, It took me the entire day to get the cabane wires mounted and secured. When I got ready to thread the 4/40 rod ends I discovered I did not have the correct die. Trip to the LHS. They did not have it. Trip to Sears. Had to spend 80 bucks for the whole set. Got back, vise would not hold the rod secure. Trip to Lowes to get another vise. Anyway, it is now done.
Smoke system. The pressure taps can be used for smoke. That is what I did on my DLE 170, no modifications needed. A 50oz tank usually gets me about seven minutes with a 50 oz tank on board. Sullivan Skywriter pump. Use the black noprene tubing from the "T" fitting to the mufflers. On a 6volt battery it smokes up the sky pretty well. One thing to expect once you put a smoke system in. It's gonna cost you about ten bucks per flight in smoke fuel if you use the store bought stuff. We have found that 75/25 deisel fuel to transmition fluid works quite well. No matter what kind you use, you'll have a mess to clean up at the end of the day. Still worth it though !!

acerc

I can tell you guys that if you use a stick of 1/8th inch brass wrapped around the canister, once or twice, your volume of smoke will qreatly increase.

WacoNut

Thanks Scott,
Since the Waco will not be my everyday plane the extra cost doesn't bother me. I will probably only use the smoke when I am at a Fly-in and want to show off a little.
Yeah the wires were a real PITA to get threaded. A tip for you, when you install the screws for the cross wires thru the fiselage former into the blind nuts use a longer bolt and put a lock nut on the other side. Vibration will work these bolts loose prety quick and as you can imagine they are a real PITA to get too to tighten back up if they come loose.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

I guess this helps the muffler maintain heat? Thanks for the tip