wingwarper

You might try this stuff called liquid sheeting at wowplanes.com.Haven't tried it yet but am buying some to try itjust for this kind of application

abufletcher

The thing is that there is a very tight tolerance on fit and I can't be adding much in terms of thickness. I suppose I could sand the whole surface of the turret down a hair to allow for two layers of glass however. But it's definitely a very unsatisfactory process.

So what do you suppose that "liquid sheeting" stuff is? Certainly sounds promising...if not for this then something else down the road.

Mein Duff

Just my two cents....depending on the cloth weight ( and I am assuming you are using a light weight fine weave cloth to get around the compound curves?) then BobH is right, you will need probaly 3 layers min. to get a hard undentable surface...I usually apply all three (or more layers) one after the other immediately while resin is still workable..and work damn fast..I usually spend 10-15 minutes cutting my cloth into squares beforehand and apply these with tweezers to the area..and tamp down with stiff pig bristle artists Oil brush, dipped as needed into the resin. Another trick before applying the first layer is to spay the object lightly with spray adhesive and place cloth patches down...you can add resin after by tamping through. I have only used R&G resin from Switz. which I have had for over ten yrs. and it works absolutely perfect every time...curing hard in 12 hrs...at about 80 degrees. I have never tried diluting R&G with alchohol...but should try it.

Why not try 24 Hr. regular epoxy diluted 40% acetone... on a test piece same procedure as above...this should give lots of working time...even 1/2 hr epoxy starts to thicken too quick for larger areas.

abufletcher

24 hours, huh? 12 hours? Maybe my personality just isn't suited to fiberglassing. Maybe I need to learn to chill and have a beer or two (or a whole case). Just before class I experimented with 5-minute epoxy (diluted with rubbing alcohol)! That's more my style! I guess I was hoping to be DONE with this today (or tomorrow at the latest)!

And, Bob's right that one layer isnt' really any more dent resistant than the CA (and putty) method. From a joy-of-building perspective neither feels very satisfying. In fact, the most "satisfying" result so far has been my test of applying stainless steel tape and burnishing that onto the surface (then filing it). Who knew I could MISS filing metal!

abufletcher

The fabric I'm using is the lightest weight glass I could order from Tower and is very delicate (almost like fine silk). Another task I don't look forward to with glassing is trimming it.

abufletcher

OK. That settles it. The test piece done with the CA and putty is much more resistant to breaking than the test piece with the one layer of glass and resin. In fact, the glass covered piece snapped quiet easily. I had to really work to break the CA-soaked piece. So for this application there's really no advantage whatsoever in using glass. Good riddance, I say. I won't say that I'll never use glass on the exterior of a model...but I'll always look for better options first.

GF, how did you cover your turret in aluminum tape? Did you do it in large pieces or little pieces (and if so how did you hide the seams). I've looked hard at the CI photos and can't see any seams on the turret.

abufletcher

After "wasting" half the day doing tests with fiberglass, actual progress was a little slow. But I did get the turret CA'ed, puttied, and sanded. A bit more detailing to do before I can prime it. I also replaced the plastic "mounting tube" on the WB Parabellum with a small brass piece that takes an M2 screw. It was sort of ridiculous to have all this fine work on the mount being attached to the actual gun with 1mm of plastic. The small screws in the base plate are actually just there to give the epoxy something to grab on the inside of the gun.

GianFrancesco

Probably the original turret was covered in one piece only of aluminium.
I remember that I was unable to cover it in one piece; in my case I have made an error as I have covered it before to cut the slot for gun support; so I have two overlapping seams in the sides of the turret instead of one only in the front middle that would be quite invisible as my turret does not rotate.

abufletcher

I'm still working on detailing the turret. I've added the flanges that bolt onto the main MG bracket and the handles. I've also soldered the rest for the Parabellum's stock, but haven't yet added it to the turret (I'll wait until the gun mount if finished to check the location and fit. I'm also thinking of adding some "window dressing" on the inside of the ring to replicate what I see in the photos. So probably two strips of lithoplate would do it. And of course, there's still the coaming to do.

What's the little do-dad circled in red?

Mein Duff

Looks like a WWI coffee maker to me[]

abufletcher

Wow, those Germans thought of everything! Imagine, a cup of hot joe served on every flight!

Balsawings

I think you guys have had too much joe.

That looks to me like it might be a thumb screw or nob for latching down the turret so it doesn't rotate when not in use.

Bob

abufletcher

It's been a long slog, but the turret is almost finished, just a couple details to add and a top coat of grey "rustoleum." All that's left to do on the MG mount is the "pilar" that attached to the MG and slips into the hole in the base block. I can know appreciate how you WWII builders feel with all the sanding and priming and sanding and priming. I can't imagine having to do that on any entire model! It's still not completely perfect, but it's as good as it's going to get. The arms are made of 3mm aluminum tube and the little elevating arm is made from one of the kit's fittings a slice of 4mm brass tube and the ball bearing from that mini-caster I was playing around with a couple pages ago.

All in all, my MG mount looks a bit "beefier" than in the photos. That's the result of my engineering limitations in 1/6 scale.

abufletcher

I have to say when you step back a few feet and all the small details on the fuselage come together, it's really starting to look amazing! I've spend an awful lot of the last week wearing a magnifying visor (which make me look REALLY cool [sm=rolleyes.gif] and I'm looking forward to working on something a bit bigger.

abufletcher

I just noticed that my "lever" is in the wrong place. I have it as the hinge position, but it needs to be in the C-shaped slot in the "sexton" piece (so that it sticks out more). No problem since it's all just screwed together at this point.

Nieuport nut

My Feedback: (10)

I think your red circled do-dad is a locking leaver.

Martin

GianFrancesco

Excellent result.
May I make a suggestion regarding the side handles? Instead of bending a pipe which will inevitably crush is better to use a rod that can be folded and weighs as nothing.

abufletcher

I just did a little fun paint test and the best effect for "bare steel" for the mount is Tamiya Gun Metal dry brushed over Flat Black. I also have some of the Model Master Gunmetal but it's far too blue (almost greenish-blue) for my tastes. I think I'll go with a blacker hue for the Parabellum.

abufletcher

Too late now. I did think of that but there's no aluminum rod available. I did have 3mm styrene rod but decided to use metal. I also briefly tried to smooth out the "crushing" with putty but just decided to go with what I had. Also I completely OVERDID the dabs of epoxy I put around the base of the handles. I thought I had seen something like that in the photos (welding) but it's WAY overdone. So I might try to file that down a bit.

I think in the end, I just ran out of modeling steam for getting each bit perfect. Sometimes you just have to move on.

abufletcher

Here's the part of the MG mount I still need to make. I've spend a lot of time on the turret (and the area around it) because this is really one of the most prominent aspects of the whole model. It maybe the first detail most people see.

GianFrancesco

Have you thought to florist wire? It is readily available (in Italy) in a variety of diameters and finishes; I have choosen the aluminium 1,5 mm. dia. "simulating copper (weathered)" color; in 1/4 scale is ideal for the petrol and pressure plumbing lines in the cockpit and for the pitot tube

abufletcher

Nothing like that available (that I am aware of) here in small town Japan. But the local hardware shop does stock some copper tubes. I like the 3mm thickness for the handles, I just wish I would have spent a bit more time on them. Ah well, I pleased (enouigh) with the result. I feel I've really pushed myself on this build to go even further than I did on the Snipe.

Mein Duff

You did a great job Don..I know some parts are just killers to make..but striving for detail and authenticity is what makes you/us different than the average builder but you can be damn proud of your fine work, I personally can't believe how quickly you move forward on projects..wish I could devote more time.
Looking forward to seeing your gunner holding a fresh cup of Joe from his cool press on his first flight !! [:-]

GianFrancesco

Not to insist, but have you tried in the shop where are sold accessories for "ikebana art" ? One typical, commonly and diffused (as by me supposed) japanese art....

fliegertom

3mm Knetmassenwurst aus der Presse....und 30 Minuten bei 110° C in den Backofen!
Ist auch stabil genug.

Tom
BTW....deine Knetmasse scheint aus dem gleichen Hause zu sein wie meine!
Es gibt sie als "Klassik" und "Soft". Die Klassik ist sehr Zäh und läßt sich schlecht pressen!