I see available waterslide laser decal sheets. Has anyone used them, and what do you think?. My model will be glow powered, would these decals need sealing? If so , with what ? They would be applied over Solartex.

Any comments or recomendations welcome.

I would guess that the "laser" part is just how the decals are cut out. Other machines use knives etc. So unless they advertise them as "fuel proof" they most likely aren't.

I have a feeling that the "laser decal sheets" might be water slide decal paper that is intended for use with a laser printer when you create your own decals. I would guess that a fuel proof spray that will cover the decals and make them look like a part of the finish, ie, dull coat for flat finishes and gloss for glossy finishes.

Just my $.02

The laser waterslide decal sheets are for use with a laser printer. You need to clearcoat them prior to soaking them for application. I have the inkjet sheets and I use Krylon ACRYLIC clear for sealing the decal so they don't run when soaked.

FWIW - be careful with decals much over 3" as they tend to "spiderweb" if not handled VERY carefully.

With Solartex, I apply the decals and any trim paint, THEN I give the plane a THIN coat of clear. The thin coat seals the decals to the plane (no edge showing) and it makes the Solartex easier to clean since the dirt can not get into the weave of the fabric.

Is the Krylon fuel resistant?

The Krylon is not fuel safe.
When I do inkjet printed decals, I use Krylon Crystal Clear on the entire sheet after printing and before cutting out individual decal footprints, otherwise the water would disolve the ink.
The Krylon simply protects the ink for the water slide application.
After the decals are applied, I use two-part automotive clear over the entire model (PPG).
I've only done relatively small decals, so can't comment on larger surface area applications, although all the small logos on the tail of my "New Spirit" Lancair is one big decal.
Paul

i dont care how many times i see that gear, I always find something else to drool over. To the uninitiated, that gear might as well come from a full scale Hornet. Heck, I bet you could fool more than one Bug driver/mechanic with just a quick glance... The ONLY thing in picture number 2 that gives it away is the phillips screw on the scissor link.

AMAZING work!

Yes; it is the laserjet decal paper I am talking about.

A question pertaining to the responses

I am trying NOT to have a glossy finish. What is being used as the final coat for the entire model (over solartex) to avoid glossing up the appearance?

Best non-gloss fuel-proof finish for a fabric covered aircraft: Nelson's Flat Clear. Period.

Just ordered the Nelson flat clear with cross-linker.

I really appreciate the no BS answer - no guessing!

This looks like a good source for the decal paper. BTW, a note at the bottom says it's not necessary to Krylon coat laser-printed decals.

http://www.decalpaper.com/category-s/2.htm

Hmmm...I'm confused. I was going to order some paper but then they asked is I wanted "white paper," "clear paper," or "mixed paper" (which I assume means a bit of both). What's the difference? Mostly I'd be doing black lettering, though I might need some white lettering in the future.

Also do stores sell decal paper; I hate to play $8 in shipping for a $11 order (which is the quote I got for the site above).

Abu, you will need white paper for anything that has white as a colour (roundels etc) clear is better for other colours, I used white laser decal paper to make the roundels on my Nieuport 11 and clear inkjet for the lettering, gave the clear a good coat of spray matt fuel proofer to seal them. I will give the whole lot a spray of matt fuel proofer to seal them to the plane. You may be able to get the paper cheaper from Ebay

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