TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
#928
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace
I could not imagine how much room this one is taking up. This is a very large plane.
I could not imagine how much room this one is taking up. This is a very large plane.
#931
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace
Ah, gotcha. That makes sense. I am trying to figure out the best method for glassing mine. I am leaning towards this flow coat.
I am doing the last little bits on my 1/5th TA 152 wing before I finish sheeting it. Mine is a 3 piece, with the outer panels coming off just outside of the gear. I could not imagine how much room this one is taking up. This is a very large plane.
Ah, gotcha. That makes sense. I am trying to figure out the best method for glassing mine. I am leaning towards this flow coat.
I am doing the last little bits on my 1/5th TA 152 wing before I finish sheeting it. Mine is a 3 piece, with the outer panels coming off just outside of the gear. I could not imagine how much room this one is taking up. This is a very large plane.
The purpose of Peel-ply is to eliminate the Amine-bloom that forms when epoxy's cure. Amine bloom is the waxy layer you feel on an un-sanded, and non-peel ply'd surface. It also gives you a surface that is ready for any secondary bonding. If that is a flow coat, or primer is up to the builder. Personally, a flow coat isn't necessary IMO. I haven't used a flow-coat on a glassed surface in 5 years. A high quality, high build filler primer will fill the weave of a 3/4 oz glass cloth just as well as a flow coat. It actually ends up being lighter as well. (no i'm not just saying that, I actually did tests and on a 6"sq. piece of glassed 1/8" balsa, the non-flow coat piece of 10 grams lighter than the flow-coated version).
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
I prefer the flow coat to stabilize the surface and insure zero shrinkage. Using primer to fill the weave out here on the left coast can be risky is the sun. Just a few hours in the summer sun where I live is like an autoclave... LOL!
Maybe a good two part epoxy primer would be the same as a flow coat?
Maybe a good two part epoxy primer would be the same as a flow coat?
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
I've only used peel ply once. I was bagging a 2 meter blue foam / glass wing and I used a 2 inch strip at the root because I knew I was going to join the halves with glass. As VG said... It works great for bonding surfaces.
#938
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Sanding is actually one of my favorite aspects of building. It is what I consider the final manipulation if you will. It is when you really get to see how the model will look. Like
I always say at work (I am a professional woodworker) "sanding builds character!"
I always say at work (I am a professional woodworker) "sanding builds character!"
#939
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
ORIGINAL: David010567
I prefer the flow coat to stabilize the surface and insure zero shrinkage. Using primer to fill the weave out here on the left coast can be risky is the sun. Just a few hours in the summer sun where I live is like an autoclave... LOL!
Maybe a good two part epoxy primer would be the same as a flow coat?
I prefer the flow coat to stabilize the surface and insure zero shrinkage. Using primer to fill the weave out here on the left coast can be risky is the sun. Just a few hours in the summer sun where I live is like an autoclave... LOL!
Maybe a good two part epoxy primer would be the same as a flow coat?
Once the glass has been wetted out from the first coat and allowed to fully cure, there shouldn't be any shrinkage (atleast nothing we could measure). I have gotten better finishes (with less work) since eliminating it.. I've been using the high-build filler primer (out of a rattle can) on my models for the past 5 years and haven't had any issues with shrinking in the sun. Matter of fact, my FW-190 which has RLM81 and 82 as the top surface was out in the sun on a 99* day for 8 hours and the surface was almost to hot to touch, with no issues on shrinking.
I have also seen people use peel-ply to do the initial glassing, and then peel it off after the resin cure. Then they put a new fresh piece on the part and paint another layer of resin on the peelply and part stack. Supposedly this does acts as a flow coat and eliminates the sanding. I tried it once and measured the before and after effects of the 2nd step and there was only 10 or 20 grams added to an 80" wing panel, when it took 125 grams of resin to wet out the entire "flow coat". That along with the finish's I have been getting are enough for me to realize that when using the peel-ply method, a flow coat is just more effort. IMO
But like everything else... To each their own! I have what works for me, and others have what works for them, and there are those who enjoy sanding..
And for cheap peel-ply, don't buy the specialty stuff from a composites place.. Go to your local fabric shop and ask for 100% polyester dress liner (white preferably). I've been using it exclusively, and when compared to the standard peel-ply from the composites place, it peels away just as easy. And the best thing of all, its less than $2 a yard!
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
It's a lot of work... I'm a little sore... but really happy with the results. Both wings have the top surfaces sanded down. Gotta be real careful now, no bumps or dings from here on out.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Looks great DD. try to make it down the hill and get some stick time over the holidays. I dusted off the Meister 109 to get my warbird legs back again.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Alright... Now that the tops of the wings are glassed and sanded. I'm going to do the old dreaded spooge and bolt the wing on trick for that nice wing to fillet joint. Can't really take pictures but you get the idea... Monokote, wax, spooge, pop off wing, sand etc.
Risky but worth the effort.
Risky but worth the effort.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Inside of the wing fillets are done and glassed with zero gap between wings and fuse. Bottom of fuse was match sanded to wing and glassed. Got after everything with sandpaper followed by a good coat of Defthane to seal everything up where I was a little stingy with the epoxy. That's it for the fuse... One more sanding session after the Deft is hard and I'm squirting the grey stuff on it.
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Gotta focus on getting the bottom of the wings glassed, sanded and gun blisters installed. Need to cut the holes in top of the wing skins for the servo leads, air lines etc.
Trying hard to be ready for priming next week because the temps should be in the 60's
Trying hard to be ready for priming next week because the temps should be in the 60's
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RE: TA 152H Meister Scale Project Grun 4
Update...
Bottom of wings final sanded, glassed and trimmed. Sure could use 1 or 2 hours of summer heat. Shop has been below freezing so my cure times are taking too long.
Bottom of wings final sanded, glassed and trimmed. Sure could use 1 or 2 hours of summer heat. Shop has been below freezing so my cure times are taking too long.