mikeminty-delete

Fiery, I scratch-built a 1/4 scale one for the Melbourne Pageant of 84(?) but I did the Horrie Miller version of the one Harry Butler brought to Australia after WWI. It had a Gypsy motor fitted (much easier to hide the OS120 and no nasty spinner to make) and had the fuselage "slimmed" to give flat sides. Finished all red with white reg VH-UQI it looked good and flew well ......... until the flying wires broke under the port wing!

I still have a fair amount of documentation if you are interested including 4 different wing planforms depending on whether you believe Profile Pubs, Aeromodeller, Aeroplane Monthly or Scale R/C Modeller magazine. Windsock Datafile #52 has some good pics and colour schemes.

I seem to recall that the nose on the Balsa USA one is way too long. Mike

Ralph V

The m-1 isn't all that hard to build but the wings are a little flexable I have one with a os 40 fp for power and it flys just fine.
I mostly flew it with rudder and elevator as the wing was a little to flexable with the ailerons for my taste. One of my kids steped on mine (woops) So I just now bought annother one. I like it.

As for the Dr-1 I just finished mine a little over a month ago. It
flys like a trainer and builds fast, it took me about 2-1/2 weeks to
build after work (12 hr. shifts) and on weekends ready for covering, Covering took me a little longer than I thought
(three wings)
I made some simulated prop hubs for the 1/4 scale ww1 and have one on my Dr-1 I think it looks neat and got lots of complaments on it, so I made some more in case any one is interested.

Ralph V

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, you guys have inspired me. I've taken the Bristol down from the shelf and I'm determined to get it finished! If Ralphie can build two (my God!) I should be able to get through this.

Last night I finish-sanded the wing and applied a coat of Balsarite, when a thought occurred to me. Just how much of the wing and fuselage should be fabric and what parts are not? Does anybody know?

I was originally going to use a K&B .60 for power but I've acquired a Saito .65 which will be more appropriate.
Keep in touch.

Ralph V

Vinnie

Look at the scale views that came with the kit, and I think
you will find your answers.
The kit has been updated a few years back, if you have the updated kit you will have a complete construction manual
with pictures, and a scale drawing near the back cover.

P.S. The color picture on the box label is mine.
I helped rewrite the new instruction manual.
And by the way my name is Ralph

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ralph. I believe mine is an updated kit (2-piece cowl?). Didn't have time to check tonight but I'll let you know tomorrow.

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Well Ralph, now I'm more confused than ever. The scale drawing indicates more extensive stringer length fore and aft than the model. Your photo on the box shows stringers all the way aft to the tailpost, the model does not have this. The box photo paint job is different than the photos in the manual. I'm just going to "wing it."

By the way, I covered the lower half of one wing panel with Coverite which turned out well, but when I went to do the other side, I couldn't get the Coverite to stick to itself where it overlaps. Have you any experience with this stuff?

Ralph V

Vinnie

I used the scale drawings as a reference to finish my model,
to simulate the stringers on my model I added 3/32 sq. balsa
sticks over the stringers on the model and carried them to the
tail as shown on the scale drawings (who can resist adding little touches to your own model) The colors I used are also indicated on the scale drawings. I used olive drab overall except for the bottom of the wing, and stab of which I used antique, the rudder
was covered with white, and the stripes painted. If you look close at the color picture on the box label I even added stringers to simulate the ribs on the fin, rudder, stab, and elevator.
Most of the people that have seen it couldn't believe it was
a Balsa USA model. The engine I used was a O.S. .40 fp with
a pitts style muffler, I needed extra weight up front so I used
a Harry Higgly brass spinner nut. I hope this helps to un confuse you ( the model being built in the construction manual was mine
this was one of the first kits Balsa USA started to up date. The original instructions were 3 pages of type written no photos)

Good Luck
Ralph V.

vinnie

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ralph.
I got some suggestions on my Coverite difficulties and I'm looking forward to getting the Bristol finished. I checked my records and I can't believe it's been 2 years since I started this project. I had the kitchen table tied up so long that my wife threatened divorce. It was a tough decision but I kept her (the wife) and the Bristol spent several seaons in the shed.
I plan on copying your color scheme but mine won't be nearly as authentic looking as yours is. I appreciate all the advice.

ReisingerD

My Feedback: (6)

Ralph, I am in the process of completing the BUSA Bristol. Could you elaborate on your application of the 3/32nd stringers to enhance the appearance, I don;t quite understand your post. Did you put them on top of the stringers that came with the kit?

Thanks

Dave

tom czenthe

My Bristol Mi is 22% scale ZDZ 40 power 15lbs

Hisham

Tom
Awesome!
Hisham.

chaz42075

OS 70 for power? Did the 56 work out? I am finally going to get the thing off the table. I recently got a GP DR1 and would love to get them both to a Dawn Patrol event this summer. Any one have a wheel size for the 40 size BUSA Bristol?? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You!

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

The BUSA kit is a great build, very straightforward. I made a lot of changes to mine, just wish I could have shortened the nose a bit. I stickbuilt the tail surfaces and controls, and enlarged the horizontal tail to a closer-to-scale size. I have a .80 Saito in mine, about twice what it needs. I also have pull-pull on the tail surfaces, and "simulated" pull-pull on the ailerons. Koverall/dope and LusterKote paint.

It looks better (and more scale) with one size larger (4-1/2") Wms. Bros wheels than what are called for.

Eindecker_pilot

I have the Bristol M1 by Balsa USA. Just my opinion, but it is not a good flyer in the sense that it feels like a pig with wings.

It isn't hard to fly, but it just doesn't always fly in a preditable manner. I have a Balsa USA Eindecker 90 & a 1/4 scale Balsa USA Sopwith Pup. Both of these airplanes fly great & I love them (in my terms they go where I point them & they are controllable, predictable & relaxing to fly). Flying the Bristol can be a little frustrating if you want it to actually do manuevers.

This little Bristol has relatively high wing loading (not much surface area relative to its weight), so it isn't as relaxing a flyer, but most other WWI planes are. I think the tail needs to be larger to have more bit because it seems to slop around more than it should.

If you are hooked on this airplane as a scale enthusiast, go ahead & get it, but don't expect much out of it aerodynamically. The high wing loading & lack of tail authority make it sluggish & it always feels "marginal" in the air.

Greg

danmilo

My Feedback: (4)

These really look like a great build. I was fortunate enough to buy a scratch built B1C from a fellow IMAA member while attending the Castle AFB event about six years ago. Still my favorite scale airplane and always gets a lot of comments. Believe it or not this is actually a scale version (minus the spinner) that was documented in a historical review publication. Spans 80 inches and I run a Saito 120. Nice and enjoyable.

Dan

mgnostic

I've built both the N17 and the M1. The N17 is a relatively straightforward build for a WWI biplane. I've only got about ten flights on mine so far but it has been very enjoyable. If you have built a scale kit or two or have some experience with biplanes it is very doable. It was my first 1/4 scale bird.
I had lusted over the M1 since the late 1970's and finally picked up one at an estate sale, It was a 1980's vintage kit and I understand that they have been updated since them. I fly mine with an Irvine . 72 two stroke. This is a honking big engine that way overpowers the plane but I had it on hand and the the Bristol like many WWI planes has a short nose and the large engine let me balance the plane with no added weight. I generally fly around at 1/2 throttle. I checked an lot of threads in multiple forums and it looks like the recommended .40 results in being underpowered. I moved the aileron servos out into the wings. I wish I had made the ailerons a little longer and that I had made a built up tail surface. Mine flies like a tail dragging trainer. Tailskids don't work well on asphalt but it flies nicely from the turf. It will make laps around the field with nothing more than rudder and elevator. It is a builders plane with lots of stringers but what do you expect from a sort of scale WWI fighter.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I had no problems with my 2 BUSA kits. Maybe a minor glitch here or there but that is to be expected. It seems that BUSA kits generally build into wonderful flyers and can be made to look very good.

chaz42075

I just emailed BUSA... I feel like an idiot posting on the web, but I can't find the alignment lines for the motor mount on the plans..... Ummmm.... Anything.......?

FokkerAce

I think it's open-ended......has motor shaft center...you mount your motor as necessary, depending on your equipment.

[could be wrong, didn't dig mine out]

FA[8D]

mgnostic

Motor alignment: I looked at my plans (the old, pre-update version) and it appears to show a couple of degrees of right thrust. No down thrust was indicated. My motor is set at O-O, no thrust off set. The plane flies fine but there is a noticeable yaw if you hit the throttle from the torque of an Irvine .74 two stroke with a 14-6 prop. (too much engine but it balances with no lead). With the under cambered wing a degree or two of down thrust probably wouldn't do any harm although you should not need as much as with a high winged plane.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Probably adding a degree or 2 of right thrust would not hurt anything either.

chaz42075

Rookie Building Question:

How do I know what a degree or two of right thrust is? Can I do that by putting washers on the back side of the motor mount or do I offset the motor in the mount? So if I am reading these posts correctly, I should just put a + on the firewall and align my mount with that?

Thanks guys!

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

If your engine is mounted stright with 0 degrees of thrust, you can just add 1 or 2 washers behind the left side of the mount to set your thrust. You could also use a thin wooden shim. I would build the front end straight and sqaure and add your thrust with washers or shims later. Just remember that if you have a spinner you may want to build the spinner ring area with the thrust or your reveal will be off.