|
Byron Cap 21
1 Attachment(s)
After selling my fleet to fund a move and career change, I was looking for a good sport/aerobatic plane to get myself back into the hobby. I found this kit up in the attic while moving and thought this would be a good plane to fit the role. I bought this kit in 1999 for a steal to use as a test bed for a prototype engine. I started building it, but never finished it. I did get far enough to ruin the wing panels trying to fiberglass them. So I am starting out this time around by redesigning the wing. I am hoping I can fix the nasty tip stall known to this plane at the same time. I also plan to skin the fuse and tail with 1/16 " balsa before finishing the whole plane with Monokote. I plan to use a Zenoah G-26 for power. I am a scale builder/flyer, not a 3D guy so I think this should be enough power.
The first picture shows the current state of the fuse. The second shows the new wing plan which I have been drawing. I'm hoping to have the plan done and to start cutting wing pieces this coming week. |
RE: Byron Cap 21
Hi . . .
Not sure a 26 is going to be enough power. I used a Q 42 and later a G 62 in mine years ago. The 62 was way too much power. As for stall .. keep up the speed on landing... I modified the second one to have flaps for landing. Used about 1/2 the aileron to do this. plane still rolled fine. Flaps: Helped on landing a lot btw. Good luck and have fun ! |
RE: Byron Cap 21
I am abit concerned about the G-26 having enough power. I think if I can keep the finished weight under 15 lbs. I'll be ok. The flaps are an interesting idea. One set of 3-views I found for the 21 actually shows flaps on the full scale. I might have to give them a try.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
1 Attachment(s)
Hello
I had two of these years ago (one not built). Mine had a Moki 1.8 for power. I think the G-26 may be a little small even for scale flying. Scale was aerobatics, right? As for finishing the plane I had (have) an all foam Byron Christen Eagle finished in Monokote. Before Monokoting I covered the whole thing in fiberglass cloth. It was applied with water based polyurethane. Ding resistant and light. pic 2 If you ever need parts I have a complete foam kit minus new cowl, pants. These are available used (see pic) BTW- the flaps sound like a good idea. ORIGINAL: FlyingTyger After selling my fleet to fund a move and career change, I was looking for a good sport/aerobatic plane to get myself back into the hobby. I found this kit up in the attic while moving and thought this would be a good plane to fit the role. I bought this kit in 1999 for a steal to use as a test bed for a prototype engine. I started building it, but never finished it. I did get far enough to ruin the wing panels trying to fiberglass them. So I am starting out this time around by redesigning the wing. I am hoping I can fix the nasty tip stall known to this plane at the same time. I also plan to skin the fuse and tail with 1/16 '' balsa before finishing the whole plane with Monokote. I plan to use a Zenoah G-26 for power. I am a scale builder/flyer, not a 3D guy so I think this should be enough power. The first picture shows the current state of the fuse. The second shows the new wing plan which I have been drawing. I'm hoping to have the plan done and to start cutting wing pieces this coming week. |
RE: Byron Cap 21
Scale flying would include aerobatics. I guess I will keep an eye on the weight as I build. I will leave the firewall raw until the very end so I have the option to mount a different engine if need be. Drifter, I might be interested in some parts, thanks for the offer.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
Scale flying would include aerobatics. I guess I will keep an eye on the weight as I build. I will leave the firewall raw until the very end so I have the option to mount a different engine if need be. Drifter, I might be interested in some parts, thanks for the offer.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
A 26 just isn't going to cut it on this plane. A 35 would be minimum, and a 45 or 50 is even better. Mine came out at 18 pounds, and I balsa sheeted the whole thing. I have a Homelite 45cc on mine, and a smoke system. There is a lot of good information in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9173434/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]this thread.[/link]
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
I appreciate the advise. If need be, I have a Thor 45 I can bolt on the nose if the G-26 can't muster enough thrust. But this is my theory behind the G-26. I have seen a 1/4 scale Spacewalker fly well on an old G-23. I would guess the plane weighed about 15 lbs. I have had two 89" PT-19's that flew "scale", one with a G-23, one with a G-26. They both weighed about 18 lbs. I watched a 80"+ Super Chipmunk at a flyin last year perform nicely with a G-26. I have no idea of the weight. I understand that this doesn't neccessarily mean the 26 will work in the Cap, but this is why I thought it'd be worth a try.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
Tony,
Keep us posted on whatever you decide to so. Good luck. |
RE: Byron Cap 21
Beauty cap, drifter!http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ades_smile.gif
Good to see another Cap build! I'm looking forward to seein' your complete set-up too. :) Do you notice the same twist in the fuse as I do when you hold the front and move the t' deck side to side? Watch where the back of the cockpit and turtle deck meet. Is this a concern? Does the 'glassing help or should we figure out a solution? |
RE: Byron Cap 21
ORIGINAL: RevyMaxx Beauty cap, drifter![img][/img] Good to see another Cap build! I'm looking forward to seein' your complete set-up too. :) Do you notice the same twist in the fuse as I do when you hold the front and move the t' deck side to side? Watch where the back of the cockpit and turtle deck meet. Is this a concern? Does the 'glassing help or should we figure out a solution? The original owner crashed on his first flight. The gasoline tank burst and the gasoline ate the foam from the firewall back to near the end of the canopy. He threw the remains in the field trash can. I went dumpster diving and salvaged the remains. I rebuilt the fuse from the rear of the wing forward out of 1/2" balsa. I figured the forward weight would help. I used some parts (canopy, cowl, etc) from a kit I had on hand. The new front section was glassed onto the old rear. Thus no twisting. I would glass the inside of a new kit at that turtle deck - rear wing junction. I have the remaining kit parts stored somewhere. Just have to remember where and dig them out. The control setup was per the manual. It flew fine. |
RE: Byron Cap 21
ORIGINAL: RevyMaxx Beauty cap, drifter![img][/img] Good to see another Cap build! I'm looking forward to seein' your complete set-up too. :) Do you notice the same twist in the fuse as I do when you hold the front and move the t' deck side to side? Watch where the back of the cockpit and turtle deck meet. Is this a concern? Does the 'glassing help or should we figure out a solution? The plans for the new wing are printed. I am out of town for the holiday and will start cutting ribs when I return. Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!! |
RE: Byron Cap 21
hello
years ago there was an article about taming the snap happy cap 21 the problem was not with the wing it was the counter balances on the elevator the secret is to cut off the counter balance and glue it to the stab instead of the elevator the author claimed it was the counter balance would create significant drag and cause the snap i read the article and was building the great planes cap 21 60 size and decided to give this a try it worked extremely well .we put in the recomended throw for full up on low rates and as much as possible on high. the thing would do the prettiest flat spins you could ask for and absolutly no snaping tendencies unless commanded |
RE: Byron Cap 21
p.s. the article was done on the byron cap
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
That would take away some of the scale appearance but if it keeps it from snapping I think its worth a shot. I just might give that a try as I am just at the glassing point and have yet to tackle the control surfaces just to be sure of fit. Wicked timing on that heads up!!![8D]
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
Hmm. I have never heard of the counterbalances causing a snap, but it certainly makes sense. Especially given the size of them on the Cap. I really hate to alter the scale appearance, I'm just too much of a scale nut. I will have to give this a lot of thought.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
1 Attachment(s)
I have found the GF 4.5's Cap, although not to our size, has its snap tendency in hard elevator throws. That's why I think I'll give'r a try. It just may be the solution. Nobody will know if the elevator stays neutral, lol!
Oh BTW, I did that fiberglass work at the cockpit/ turtle-deck junction right around to the bottom and the aft bulk. When the canopy is on it shouldn't move. Thanks for that, drifter! |
RE: Byron Cap 21
1 Attachment(s)
Well I haven't been as productive in the last week as I hoped. I did get the rib templates glued to the wood and ready to start cutting, but that's all the farther I got.
On another note, got the color scheme figured out thanks to some help from Dynamic Decals. They drew up a couple designs based on some ideas I had and emailed them over to me with some color options. Attached is their sketch of what it should look like when finished. The orange color in reality will have a heavy metal flake finish to it. They are starting to work on the vinyl graphics and I would expect to have them shortly. |
RE: Byron Cap 21
That is very cool!:) I am in the same boat, trying to figure out a scheme. I do like the original paint job for scale, but I've always liked a unique look.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
If you want to run this in scale events best to go with a scale look... Sometimes scale looks is the hardest to fly too cause scale paint jobs can be difficult to see in the sky, lol
Nothing like that sinking-then-[X(]heart-attack[X(] feeling when your coming in low at 100 mph and you realize yer inverted DOH! Sorta like Sylvester getting electrocuted! :D:D ROFLMAO :D:D |
RE: Byron Cap 21
Scale schemes can be hard to see. I've built two P-51's with the Flying Undertaker scheme. As much as I like the colors, everything but the yellow spinner would disappear in the sky while making the turn from base to upwind. Its been a few years since I've finished a plane without a scale color scheme, even my foamys. I've always told myself that if I built a model of a homebuilt or aerobat then its still scale if I finish it the same way I'd paint the full scale :-). As for competition, I will leave that to the Flair Stearman that's still new-in-box. Revy, if you are looking for a cool scale color scheme, I found one that's pretty cool. I will post a pic when I am not net surfing on my phone.
|
RE: Byron Cap 21
Tom, when our head hind is west to east, I get that sinking feeling with the Edge, lol. The whole thing disappears for a sec. Blends right in.
I am trying for my first scale look but if I can't see it then what's the point. I'd be taking the "walk", lol! I am looking forward to that other scheme, F-T, as I'm still on the fence. This is the hardest part, I think, picking a color!:D Jason |
RE: Byron Cap 21
ORIGINAL: RevyMaxx Tom, when our head hind is west to east, I get that sinking feeling with the Edge, lol. The whole thing disappears for a sec. Blends right in. I am trying for my first scale look but if I can't see it then what's the point. I'd be taking the ''walk'', lol! I am looking forward to that other scheme, F-T, as I'm still on the fence. This is the hardest part, I think, picking a color!:D Jason Reds, Yellows and oranges have a similar contrast to white and they can blend together. This and shilouetting happens to people with even perfect vision. |
RE: Byron Cap 21
1 Attachment(s)
Revy
Here are the pictures that I promised awhile back. With the holidays going on, I haven't had much time to build. I did get the wing panels framed up, but that's about it. Tony |
RE: Byron Cap 21
Soo, what's goin' on?! Did ya stall, again?http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../msn/75_75.gif
Paint wise, Murdy's scheme is what Iwent with...for now. Got some wrinkle effect in the clearcoat, my bad, and will re- do. But wheter or not it's Murdy's again we'll see if I can see, lol. I'll maiden mine this week if I can figure out the CG on this. Byron has it at 3.25" from the LE on the root. I can't get it there. Best I've gotten is 3.75" and that's adding 2 oz to the motor box! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../omg_smile.gif |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:24 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.