Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

I worked for years on a Camble boat very close to the Dumas kit, and built the model. This is my first boat kit, and was a bit taken by the kit. I did manage to build the model and modified it to look very much like the "Lone Wolf", my last ship. Being a helicopter pilot/mechanic/tuna spotter, I have been in the tuna industry for over 15 years.

Now that I've the hull built, I bought the Ace boat Tx and Rx. Is there any one that makes a water proof servo?

Dumas recomended that I use their 6 volt motor and gear box. I did buy their speed control, but it seems really old tech, and wonder if there is a better "Boat" speed control I can use.

I will be using gel cell lead acid batteries...any comments on this? I'm using these batteries because I will need weight in the boat to get it down to the water line.

I've included a bilge pump in the model.

My ship has a clipper bow, not like the one shown in the picture in the kit. It has a more rounded front bow and a nice transition to the keel...it's just like the "Lone Wolf" boat I was on. This took some time to build, but it was really worth the effort, for it looks great.

I've been into r/c airplanes for many years...but I built this kit as a change of pace. It was a bit difficult to put together, but the results are very nice.

I would include pictures, but I am not able to up load pictures on this site for some reason. If some one can help me with uploading pictures, I'll send my pictures. The model is now ready for painting, and I've finished all the consturction of the model.

A safe port to all,
Bobby of Maui

green-boat

As for a water proof servo, I don't know if anybody makes one. If you have built the boat correctly you shouldn't need one. I have one boat that has a 1/2" of freeboard to the main deck. All of the electroncs and hardware are below the waterline. I have yet to see a drop of water insde the hull.

I have become a fan of the Proboat speed controls since High Tech stopped selling their 610 model. You can't beat the price of $40 for a waterproof electronic speed control with reverse. If you want to go high tech, I like Vantec, they are pricey though. I would stay away from the old Dumas mechanical speed control, they can generate a fair amount of heat when used for a long time and are prone to failing.

Gel cells are a great way to go, last a long time and make great ballast weight. You can't be in a hurry to charge them up though, overnight is the way to do it. The 6 volt 5 amp ones are a perfect size and can be found at Home Depot or Lowes with the emergency exit lights. I will admit this though, due to the amount of batteries/boats that I have, buying that many chargers would have been expensive. When buisnesses remodel, they throw away the old emergency exit signs. I get a hold of them and remove the charger circuit boards. I have built a charger box where I can charge up to 12 batteries at once.

Now how about them pictures.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Dear Green-Boat,
Thank you for the information and I will take a few pictures of the hull and deck. I had some pictures of the build, and I tore my attic up looking for them ( I just put a pine floor in my attic and placed all my pictures and stuff up there...now I can't find a darn thing any where).

Thank you for the information on the speed control, and yes...I did buy the Dubro speed control and will not use the unit (it belongs in a museum). I have ordered the Hobby Lobby bow thruster...and plan to place this in my bow...I do have the room, though a bit tight . Then I will need to do some minor work to ready it for painting. I'm going to paint it after my last ship...the Lone Wolf. A U.S. flagged, super seiner out of San Diago, and run by a good ol' Italian family. Great folks to work for and fly for.

Safe port to all,
Bobby of Maui

green-boat

I think that I have one of the Dumas tuna boats hiding in the basement somewhere. I got it at a yard sale years ago. It is missing some parts and the cabin roof, there is no motor or electronics either. Out of the box she is kind of bland, Dumas didn't do much in the way of detailing to make her look appealing. Since I live in an area that doesn't have any fishing vessels, it is hard to find any kind of real life reference to go by. All I have is pictures on the net to go by and sometimes that is like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Now if I could find some pictures of one in real life to go by, I might be tempted to pull her out of mothballs and finish her like she should be.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay buddy;

I worked on Tuna Boats for over 15 years as a pilot/mechanic, and fish spotter. I started out flying old bell 47's and ended up flying Hughs 500's. The Dumas kit was my first boat kit, and it took a bit of, "that looks about right" engineering. I did have a 297 ft. super seiner to pull information from, a 2400 toner. I made some changes to the kit, to reflect the ship I was on, but it took over nine months of daily work to build the hull...no simple feat in itself, considering the kit seriously needs updating. I've been building model airplanes from kits since the 1960's, ever since I was a kid. But this kit took all I had in me...and then some to finish. To tell you the truth...the last Capt. we had on that boat turned out to be a real "rectal cavity" (and I'm trying to be nice here...being a public forumand all) and was the main drive to build the boat. The only peace I had was my work, and building this boat kit. After I finished the hull...the Capt. wanted the model...but he never had a chance, and I brought it home with me. Going through customs was a trip...but they loved the model. So do I...and so will you.

I built an Italian kit of the Cuttyshark scooner. A world of difference in kits, with the latter cad drawn, cad cut precision parts and all the goodies, and was over 39" long, with a planked hull. The kit also cost over $400.00 in Saudi Arabia. I built the kit...but I was in Saudi during the 9/11 attack...and I had to leave the model there to get out of that sh-- hole (please excuse my language...but these fine friends of ours over there...ain't our friends, no matter what the folks say in Washington). I was there for an 18 month contract flying for the ministry of Ag...and took a break from my tuna work...(May the flies of 1000 camels infest their private parts). It took our State Department and letters from my Congressman here in Hawaii to get me home. I've no fond memories of that place...and some where over there...my model still sits. Grrrr!

Safe port to all,
Bobby of Maui

p.s. Give me a couple of day's...and I will post my pictures for you.

green-boat

Thank god your home safe and out of that sand box. Sorry to hear about your boat though. It seems that we put so much time and effort into our boats that they become an extension of ourselves or almost one of the family. Can't forget the amount of money that goes into one of these boats either. It is heart breaking to leave one behind Sorry that had to happen but sometimes flesh is worth more that wood and glue. We still will try to grab for the falling X-acto knife with a new blade in it to save what was just glued down regardless of the consequences.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Aloha Green-Boat,

I managed to pull my tuna boat out and dust it off. I then managed to pull all the other stuff I have for it to. I took some pictures of the hull and just set a few deck details on the decks... I need to finish some upper deck details and install the bow thruster. I need to final the batteries...and maybe buy three more...I'm going to have to figure out where to place them too, and keep balace. I am going to need a good speed control, and I've not decided on the one I'll use yet. Dumas sold me an electric motor #2004 6v. unit. and a gear box for the electic motor. I've hooked up all the drive train, and it works nice. The bilge pump is set up, but I may need to move it to place the batteries.

I've yet to make up the net pile...and will need to fabricate my chains, net and floats for the boat.

Then paint...

I've some pictures for you now, and I will dissemble the hull and show you the inner hull in a day or so.

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

I'm enclosing the photo's of the inner hull for you. It was a trip building the hull, and it was my first planking experience too. Dumas... was almost close, in cutting the wood for the kit, and there was just not enough planking material to do the job. Since we made port in General Santos City to off load our catch, I was able to run down the wood needed. I ran out of 1/64 th. ply, and where do you find this in Papua New Guinea. It was a trip and no pun intended, but I made many port calls over the years. From Christas Island, to Thailand. With the Salomon Islands the best port of call.

You will notice some grey stuff on the inner hull, and this is aircraft structural epoxy. My sanding kind of wore out the wood and felt I needed to make this area rock hard and strong. Having a full shop of aircraft grade adhisives helps when at sea, for there are no hobby shops any where accept Honolulu and Guam. I built this boat at sea while fish spotting in the South Western Pacific.

The drive line came out perfect the first try. But having all the drive gear helped me...I just started with the scale location for the drive shaft and assembled everyting to mate up to it. It works smooth and I took the time to make the rudder stearable with a r/c servo. I was going to mount the rudder survo fwd., but now going to place it aft real close to the rudder contol post. The exit port for the bilge pump is mid hull, port side, above the water line. I've the anchor bow light poll made, all the radar gizmo's (pre made and I found them in Jeddah), and full bow anchor windless assembley made. There is a lot of stuff on a boat...and I had a lot of time on my hands...so why not.

I've a voltage box that can give me smaller amounts of power of different voltages. I may need 12v. but I'm trying to stay at 6v. for everthing.

There are not fresh water ponds any where near where I live...but there is a whole bunch of ocean. So I will have to wait for a dead calm sea, and launch it from shore near my home. It will be a real sea boat...

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

green-boat

Looks great, a vast inprovement over the Dumas "out of the box" version. It looks like you did a good job of sealing all of the wood inside and out.I can almost feel the inspiration in me to get mine into drydock for a refit. I've found my camera and have taken some "before" pictures of mine. Now if I can find the cable to the camera to load them up to the computer I'd be in luck. We just had new carpet laid in the house, 4 rooms and a hall, and all of the stuff had gotten stashed in an extra room. I know what box it is in, I've just got to find it. As soon as I find it I'll post them.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

I found some spar vanish on my last ship, and I used this to water proof the model, both inside and out. I have at least ten coats on her and I sanded between all coats...a very smooth planked hull. The aircraft structure adhesive I placed inside the hull dries rock hard and I needed to place it on the hull where I sanded the planking to thin. I'm not realy worried about the weight of the model...for I will need to add ballast as it is. I did manage to get a near perfect transition to the stern, from the main hull center section. Since this ship has a displacement hull, it will not be a fast boat in the water, but none realy were. Our ship made a good 15 knots when we were going full speed...maybe 16 if we were lucky. We usually cruised at 12 knots. Steaming against the trade winds could put a 30 kt. wind over the top deck...and that is where my bird was and where had to work on my helicopter. Believe me, flying a helicopter off these ships took patience and skill...And working on the top deck all the time had it's ups and downs. But when the weather was good, awesome. I've yet to finish my Hughs 500 for this model, but I will and place it on the top deck. I've ordered my extra three 6v batteries from Hobby Lobby and my bow thruster, and as soon as they arrive I will begine to finish this model. I am also going to send my radio Tx to Ace, and make it a seven channel radio...it's five now. I've the Ace Natical Commader Tx and Rx for this boat. I've one strong 1/4 scale servo in my collection of airtronics gear, and will use this for stearage. I am also thinking of placeing a boats horn in the model, and running lights.

There are a lot of scale items I did not show you I've made for the ship. I've my main engine and ships generator exhaust staks (made from s.s. tubing), stenchon lines, windlesses, and a host of other details I've made for the model.

I would love to see your model...

I would also like to build another ship...not sure what type...but is there anywhere I can find a lot of kits that are r/c and other then Hobby Lobby or Dumas ? I would love to build a model that would have sails and steam power too. I love scale ships.

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

mellymel

Hi Bobby,
Nice build! I just wanted to comment about your choice in regards to dumas speed controller and 6v batteries. I also had to make a decision when I got my Lord Nelson. Dumas said they no longer run the 6v speed controllers in there bolts or the gel batteries. I was a little confused as tower hobbies still sells this stuff. The guy at dumas said they run regular ESC with standard 7.2v batteries which is what I used. I use 3200's.


In regards to using the gel batterie as weight, you can use small Zip Lock bags and put BB's in them. The bags can be found at any craft store or Walmart and are 3 inch by 2 inch. I used about 6 in my Lord Nelson. I used a little less than needed as I have a sound kit and some other items in the hull to add weight.

Anyways thats my two cents.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay 2-cents,
I do not plan on using the speed controler Dumas sold to me, but I do plan on using gel cell batteries. I'm not sure...but I do believe the gel cells will give me a good run time, and plan on placing at least three or four of them in the hull if I can fit them. I will be using a more modern speed control with reverse, but I've not decided on which one to buy yet. I settled on using a 6v. Dumas electric motor, because they told me that was the best for this boat...and being my first boat build...went with their information. It's getting close to puting her in paint and getting the keel wet.

Thanks for the comments,
Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

Bob,
Just thought I'd mention the Tuna Clipper is still available from
Dumas as a "Specially priced Boat":

http://www.dumasproducts.com/cgi-bin...duct/View/1204

Yours looks good so far! I suspect Dumas counts on people buying their hardware and running gear to make a
profit on these kits. The Tuna Clipper is $54. I use surplus parts as mentioned earlier, saves lots of $$,
except I do use new commercial electronic speed controls. I have some old 60hz speed controls from the early '80's
that are a joke compared to what you can get today. I think I paid $100 for my original Vantec which is relegated
to the electronic junk box now. (Thats about $300 in todays money. Per capita personal income has tripled since then!)

Dave
Some retail ship model kit sites:
http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/Mo...-Catalogue.htm
http://www.historicships.com/menu.htm
http://www.model-dockyard.com/

green-boat

The Dumas motor is a good one, low current draw which means long run times and a fair amount of torque. Even if you find a used one it is worth getting, built very well. I'm not too fond of the Dumas hardware do to the fact gears are noisy. Yes they make a simple and easy setup but I either install a large enough motor to go direct drive or use timing pulleys and belts. The last Vantec that I bought was 4 years ago and it cost me $80. Technology has made them smaller and a little cheeper. There are several club members in the club that I belong to that still use them, still going strong after all these years.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

I really do appreceate the help, and now happy I bought the electric motor. I am awaiting my bow thruster and gel cells...and I wonder how long I can run my boat with three six volt 5.5 amp gel cells, using the Dumas motor ? Any experience with this? I know I could have used higher tech batteries, but new gel cells are bullet proff. I also will need the weight, but it's going to be interesting to see how I mount everyting in the hull and get the balance I want. I'm now going to install the full runing gear in the model, and when the gell cells get here, begin the last work on the inner hull. Once this is done, and my radio gear installed, I can proceed to air brush the model for final assembly. I'm not decided how to install my receiver...build a box or just wrape in small plastic bags. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

I must fly into HNL tomorrow and see my dentist...don't you love the experience. I will get to work on ths in a couple of day's. Hobby Lobby informed me my stuff is all inbound, and I should see it soon. Hobby Lobby has been good to me.

I'm looking for an r/c clipper ship or two masted schooner to build. Planked hull and scale. I would love a computer drawn, and lazer cut kit...40" water line would be just perfect.

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

green-boat

I have an old Sterling models Lumba-Lumba boat, a little bigger than the Tuna boat you have. It has a single Dumas motor in it with a 6 volt 4.5 amp gel cell in it. I can run that boat all day on one charge. For 3 batteries it's hard to say just how long it will run, I would say that it could outlast you. Keep you batteries mounted as low as possible even if this means cutting out the floor in the bottom of the hull. With you having to run your boat in the ocean because of no ponds available this would be highly recommended. The lower the center of gravity the more stable your boat will be.

As for laser cut, 40" w/l sailing vessel that is r/c-able kit, that may be a tough one to find. Here are some more places to try.

http://www.modelexpo-online.com
http://www.acrossthepond.net
http://www.bluejacketinc.com

Hey, ask your dentist for the carbide burrs that he can't use anymore. Those are the ones that fit into the high speed hand piece (drill). After a while they will dull up and won't cut thru tooth enamel but they sure will cut thru a piece of wood. You will need a 1/16" collet to fit them into your Dremel tool. Also broken or dull scalers (picks) that the hygenists use come in handy.

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

Bobby,
Best radio mounting method is to put all the electronics into a "tupperware" container.
If the ESC is waterproof, leave that out as it will probably generate SOME heat.
Goop works to glue the box in place. You will need 3 small holes:
push-pull for switch
antenna
rudder pushrod (& motor/battery wires if ESC is in box)
If the holes are tight fits, very little water will ever get in, even if
she goes to Davey Jones. Salt water is murder on everything electric/
electronic.
As green-boat sez, keep the weight low. My Lumba-Lumba was top heavy
and heeled over so much in a tight turn water came in the side windows.
Nice and fast is a straight line though!
Dave

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Who makes the best electronic control for this motor? I would like full reverse too. Is a water cooled unit any better? I've seen all types for sale...and I really do not know what unit to buy yet.

I've been given some great idea's about installing my radio gear...thank you. I'm using an old tried and true servo, an Airtronics 94102. I've serveral on hand, and I'm using the Ace reciever that is sold in the Nautical Commander set. I've a wip antenna for the boat.

Tuna boats have a lot of radio's on board, with most wip antenna's on the top deck aft of the helicopter pad. Some are on the top of the "stick." Most ships have obsticalls much closer to your tail feathers then ever seen onland...and this really gets your attention when landing ones helicopter at sea, in the open ocean.

I've not decided where to place my, on and off switch...and I'm looking for a water proof unit.

The hull is not going to be water proof. I have the Ram, 44,45- 9 volt bilge pump...has any one any experience with this unit? They call it the "boat saver pump." I'm happy with my joint connections with the fish deck, to upper works, but I didn't really make them water tight. Their not bad, but if I take a good hit with a wave, I will take on water. The only place I can sail her will be the ocean. There are day's it's dead calm, mirror smooth...But not that often. This is going to be interesting. Salt water is not kind to electrioncs or anything else. I have over the years, developed a couple of things, that have worked for me on helicopter air frames...But anything can sink...and nothing is forever...but I would realy like a long romance with this boat.

My gear box is not a really high tech unit...but it's basic and out in the open. Easy maintence and access. It looks like brass, with an a hard alum. frame. Is it possible to get radio interference off the gear box ? How about this motor...any reported interference...?

I will paint it four colors...two of blue, white and red. Basic dark blue hull, with upper decks two tone light blue and white, with a white top deck, trimed out in dark blue. Dark red up to the water line. A white tower with a blue crows nest.

I basically built this boat with five minute epoxy. It was the only adhisive that would stick to the Philippino mohagany (sp?) wood.

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

fritzke

My Feedback: (1)

Bob,
Unless you really over-prop the thing, the 6 volt Pittman won't
generate much heat in a modern ESC. Water cooling is for the high
amp stuff. At 3:1 gearing, you should be able to turn a 2 1/2" prop easy.

With a whip antenna topsides, I can't see you getting any noise
to the RX, but it's possible I suppose. It would be nice if the
bigger gear was derlin/nylon, but try it out, it'll probably be fine.

I always stuck to direct drive for simplicity, so I have no experience
with geartrains. Some of my pals used them, and they were OK.
(My buddy Dave had a 1:1 "Z" drive in his Sea Maid to keep the
motor in the proper place.)
Dave

green-boat

I finally found the cable to the camera. Here are some pictures of mine, mind you this is not a representation of my work. After looking it over, the $54 kit looks better and better. There are too many pieces missing and cracks in the hull.

green-boat

Hey, it worked. First time doing pictures. lost a few though. Here's more.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Green-boat,
By the way...how did you manage that handle...?

I received my order from Hobby Lobby, but my bow thruster was damaged. The three gel cell's kind of bounced around a little and broke one tube. I will be e-mailing for a repalcement unit. Now that I have the gel cell's here...I'm not sure I can use them...bummer. But time will tell.

I'm installing the electric motor, gear box, drive shaft and survo now. Then I will know if the gel cell's will fit. They are flat...but larger then I realized. I should have made a template first...you live and learn.

Your bow is different then mine...I've a more nerrow bow...but it could be the picture angle too.

You have a great looking ship...but I would love to get a picture of your inner workings and how you set up your power system. I would also like some close ups of your decking...and equipment. The kit had little shown in the pictures...but I've a ton of picturs I took on board my last ship...if I can find them up in my attic. How does it sail under power...?

Neat boat...and now I am driven to get my ship sea worthy.

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

green-boat

Bob,

My "handle" came from one of my boats. It is a modified Dumas "Mucho Macho". It was put out for amusement parks, put the quarter in and run the boat. Dumas made them in 16 different metal flake colors and sold them to other companies that fitted them out and resold them. Some were single screw with a rudder and some were twin screw with no rudder. I got mine before it had been fitted out. As of today I have 8 different colors, still looking for the other 8. They were made in the early 80's so finding the rest is a challenge. I'm not a collector of them but it would be nice to have one of each. The boat had never been named and just got refered to as the "green boat".


As for the inner workings on my Tuna boat, there are none. I got the boat at a yard sale and it looks like someone had built it as a static. Thats why I'm wondering if I should get a new kit from Dumas or strip this one down and rebuild it. The hull sheeting is cracked in places, no stuffing tube, no rudder tube, wood grain showing on the superstructure and deck................

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Green Boat,
That is one great looking model boat...and you have so many of the same model, abit different colors. If you have an extra one you want to get rid of...let me know.

I found a kit of the Sterling battle ship model, but when the price hit over $300.00, I let it go. I will build from plans if I need to, and I've yet to investigate this area of the hobby...boats built from plans.

I've yet to reveive the replacement bow thruster from Hobby Lobby, but it should arrive soon enough. These folks have been good to me so far.

I did not put my propeller shaft in until after my hull was build. So you can still do it if you want, but to build a new hull will be an experience. The kit is not that good in the "parts fit department", but it is cheap at $54.00 buckaroos. I modified my hull, so the upper deck is flush to the sides of the hull, like on my last ship. I also added the stern tie down point on the port side, and set up my net pile area for my chains, net and corks. I added a stair way from the fish deck to the bridge deck on the center fish deck and one in the bow area. The cap to the deck was sanded from 3/8" marine ply, and has a tripple tapper. It's warped a bit, but will still work. It was the only wood I could find to do the job, and did that ever take some time hand sand to shape. The fit for the decking isn't perfect either, but considering my first attmept at boat building, acceptable. I also installed a rub rail and wet deck rail on the hull...all like on the Lone Wolf, my last ship. I've inclosed a few more pictues of my boat hull and net boat I built for my seiner.

Safe port always,
Bobby of Maui

green-boat

Here are some more pictures of the bow and equipment.