ORIGINAL: Perry S.

No, the cap across the motor is to reduce electrical noise. Diodes affect the direction of current travel, not capacitors.

Perry

here's a trick. Shorten the small return spring (cut it in half then fold over the first rung to use to secure to the unit. That has happen to me where both plungers (outer and inner) release at the same time. With the added stress with the upgraded shooting spring for some reason causes the outer plunger not to release when it is suppose to. I remedied this with either shortening the small release spring thereby creating more force when the bb is set, or putting a stronger spring in (remember there are 2 springs - shooting spring which drive the plunger to propel the bb, and the smaller release spring to set the bb. Hope this works

its always best to have a clean inner barrel for any gun (even these airsoft guns) You can also replace the inner barrel to reduce the amount of blow-by. The Stock HL inner barrel has about a 6.15mm inner diameter. I've been using tight-bore barrels with about 6.03mm or 6.04mm inner diameter. Hugh difference in power

10cm is a good length for an inner barrel

because of the length of the inner barrel the air pressure caused by the airsoft unit can only accelerate the bb if the air pressure behind the bb is greater than the air in front of the bb. the holes allow the air to escape as the bb travels out the barrel. As well, the the bb passed the small hole it allows air to get sucked in. without the hole there would be a vaccum created causing drag on the bb. I've found that all you need is about a 10cm long inner barrel of optimal firing. I replace the stock inner barrel with a cut piece of a tight bore inner barrel. The stock inner barrel inner diameter is about 6.15mm. A tight bore barrel is about 6.03. This reduces blowby (air escaping past the bb when the airsoft unit is fired. A typical stock HL airsoft gun will shoot about 60-90fps. I've had my guns shoot as hight as 235fps

I picked it up on ebay. I'd get a madbull tightbore barrel (6.03m) 650mm length and cut it using a plumbers cutting tool. The barrel is aluminum so its easy to cut. You will have to drill out the breech to 11/32 of an inch (don't go too deep as it could crack it and the you may have problems) As well, you can put spacers in the plunger to preload the spring)

first piece of advice
get several replacement units (with the yellow cap motors) There are ones with blue cap motors that are a bit different and won't upgrade- to the extent of the yellow cap motors

what you will need

a stronger (heavier guage)spring (mine are 1 3/4" long by 1/2")

a tight bore inner barrel (you will have to cut it to length and clean out the cut end so the bb will roll freely. As well, you should drill a hole (1-2mm) about 3-4 inches down the barrel. make sure the hole's edges are cleaned so the bb rolls freely.

a spacer (about 1/4 " hex nut) I use 2 to preload the spring, Its about 1/2' total spacing. I even add a few washers to refine the power. These go inside the plunger.

a # 2 washer to compress the tall gear

two #1 washers to compress the second gear from the plunger

you need to cut the small plunger spring in half to increase the power the return plunger sets the bb

you will have to bore out the plastic breach to fit the new inner barrel. Be careful or you may crack it. Don't drill to far because the barrel will hae to set against the rubber seal properly. Even being out byt a fraction of a mm and you gun won't fire regarldess of what you do. You will have to drill it our to 11/32" I start with a smaller drill bit and work my way to that one. I even heat the breach up so its more flexible

I secure the barrel to the gun with a small screw (I drill a hole int he top of the unit and just slightly into the barrel inside the unit. Then I use a small screw to secure it once the barrel is set properly in the unit. (I usually fire several dozen bbs to test the gun and tweat it unti I am satisfied