I want to add light mud weathering to the bottom parts and wheels of my panzer. I am asking if there are any suggestions on how to get it to look realistic?

I know that mud is "chunky" and I am wondering what the best way to model this effect is? Maybe using fine sawdust mixed with the paint? The colors I have available for this are flat earth, flat brown, and red brown.
Thanks

There's multiple ways you can achieve this, but the best way is gonna be dirt itself. Obviously you realize this is a working model, so dirt will naturally build up on it depending on where you drive it. But if you really want a shelf queen that has permanent mud, then you can purchase specific modeling resin to bind with dirt, sand, micro pebbles, etc.... in addition to dry pigment or paint.<div></div><div>Theconvenientmethod is getting resin medium at the local arts and craft store. You can use either gloss gel or matte gel which dries nearly crystal clear. Add dirt and coloring to this to taste and it will take an upwards of 1-4 hours to cure. Matte would be best for a dry mud and gloss would give a more wet feature. Depending on how liberal your mix is, this will alsodeterminehow wet or dry looking it will be.</div>

Thanks for the info...I want my tank to be a semi shelf queen...the problem is I don't know of any clubs in my area and I don't have IR so I won't be battling anytime soon...Also there is very little drit in my yard mostly grass and concrete...

mud is best used as mud as in PVA glue and soil mixed the stuck to the wheels and various other parts, various members live in Europe and for the cost of postage can and will supply soil from places like the Ardennes

drive it around your garden after it has rained or in the fall when it is muddier than normal

Yes, just run it in the wild for a while hehehe and target for mud!

Many different ways...for permanent mud, regular modeling putty can be dobbed on areas that usually collect mud...tops of arms, bumper brackets and shocks. Use rubber or a color that is close to the area you want the mud to be. Smaller areas you want to stand out, can just use plain plastic glue, let dry and paint it brown. Oil spills from jerry cans, glue and gloss paint. Dry brush areas of traffic with dirt; entrances to hatches, fenders etc. mix in rust. on grab bars, handles, tow cables & open hatch rims. Regular dirt & mud is OK until the first time the wife catches you running it in the house.[:@]

I use "Elmers" carpenters wood filler.It can give a chunky texture, takes paint well and stays on the tank through rough travel.

I like to use the Tamiya Weathering Sticks in Mud, Light Earth, and Sand.  They even make one for Snow.  You can find them at RCCommand.com: http://www.rccommand.com/tank_stuff.php  They're very easy to use and almost impossible to mess up, since the object is to apply messy dirt and mud.  Just smear the stick's contents on any and every surface you want all goopy.</p>

Great looking Pershing and extremely realistic. Where did you get 73th Tk Bn? They were "right up the road" from us in Korea and still had Pershings whereas we had the "new" M-46 Pattons.

Dunno how available they are in the US but I use MIG'S acrylic resin and weathering powders, specifically made to make mud etc. The powders come in all colours, Russian earth, European, Factory grounds, all sorts and they are pretty good. He does a great range in "grease and stain" effects, rainmarks, standard rust and even winter weathering, I swear by em, great products.

Those specific modeling tubes would be great but the only problem I have with them is costs...and most things the come from over seas are pretty  out the question because of shipping.

i use revell putty with a few drips of thinner into, get strongly bount at the plastic and looks real
I add the color you want into it so even when colide to walls the inner color is the same everywhere


how to use:

1. get a bit of revell pasta into a metalcan, mixed it with the color you want
2. mix a few drips thinner onto it , a bit flat is ok
3. add it to the plastic body, it dried in half an hour, never comes off
4.if you want do corrections spray it with thinner you get a longer workingtime
5. DONE

i was forget something this is a permanent mud addingmethod but i geuss you'll figured that out

and yes other putty's give more or less the same results, i use sometime tamiyaputty also

PS:

If you use the 'real field mud' method, make sure where you are 'decorating' your tank has JUST mud. I did that once at the county fair with my Tamiya Frog, done up as a green-camo'd FAV with two 3.75" Joes standing on the nerf wing, one hand holding the roll-over antennas, other holding a gun. Thru a muddy puddle twice and she looked good... until I went to change the battery. Seems the puddle was 'more than mud' - Pee-yew! Had to strip her down after the show and scrub her clean.

Not all pet owners 'scoop'... so watch out for Land Mines!

WhiteWolf

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I have expierience with land mines with two dogs laying them in my backyard I already know how to avoid them and what happens if you don't.

Sorry Tony.

But cats do clean themselves up... so I dunno what that feline is getting uptight about... though I ~could~ posit some theories... (but this is an open thread)

But hey... haven't we all stepped in a load of s**t at some time or another?

WhiteWolf

Doggy poo on the front yard[&:].....try 48 tons sliding into a Korean rice paddy..[:@][:'(] German "honey wagons" are merely mobile rice paddies that are waiting for a passing tank fender/track. Physically not "permanent" but stay upwind for a few days. [sm=drowning.gif]