Glen B

I wanted to check to see if anyone has done this, using a DCB or similar equipment.

I know some HL's are available as either, or, others like the Stug III are only in IR.

I am thinking more along the lines of a Panzer IV F2, which is only offered in airsoft.

Pah co chu puk

Me too, I would like to convert my pzk III to IR.

All you gurus out there, what do we need to reach IR enlightnment?

YHR

You simple need to buy the Cable, Ir emitter and sensor, all available from Mato. Everything just plugs into the RX 18, and away you go.

You can keep the Airsoft if you like.

Glen B

I was thinking, and hoping it would be that simple

thecommander

Using the DBU to upgrade the HL tanks to Tamiya compatable fighter is a very simple proceedure. I did it on my HL KV1 last year. It is no Tamiya, but was 40% cheaper than a Tamiya. I did get a Tamiya KV1 this past sring and that absolutley blew away the H L KV1. The DBU is about $125 or so and is very reliable. See Phil at rctankwars.com . If you use a HL IR tank is is even easier since the led that you can use as your flash (required at almost all rc tank battlefields) is already mounted in the barrel. The Stug is a very potent tank (factually it is an assault gun) that is very hard to hit since it is so very low. I converted my HL Stug to FO Tamiya and I had many kills in Danville this past battle-weekend. It aced (Had 5 kills) within in its first two battles. I higly reccoment the Stugg III. I also have a HL Pzr II which is converted to Tamiya FO battle tank.
Bob

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

One thing I would add is to purchase the HL recoil unit to replace the airsof, so that you have a recoiling barrel with flash. This is a simple swap to do.

YHR

If you want it to be compatible with the Tamiya system then yes you will need to get a DBC. Phil is the only source for RTR DBC, but if you don't mind soldering , you can get them directly from Darkith for $75-$85 depending on whether you want to use your hobby radio or the Heng Long stock radio.

I was thinking you just wanted to add the HL IR to your tank, which is quite a bit simplier.

Fireman Tim

My Feedback: (3)

Glen,

we could meet sometime after 6pm through the week to install and test your DBC. It should not take more than 1 hour.

I would install it in a turreted tank. If you put it in a SPG like the Stug, you will be at a disadvantage on the battlefield, that is unless you want the challenge.

Glen B

Tim, thanks, that sounds good, I will PM you on this.

Yeah, I know what you mean, IMHO, the Stug, in it's upgunned versions,wasn't intended as a "street fighter" but more of a medium to longer range ambusher and from what limited examplesI have seen of IR events is that thiis is not the scenario. I also beleive real Stugs did not fare as well when used as tanks, when there wasn't anything else available.

However, I like Stugs, I have a Stug now that is sitting on the shelf, so it is a good fit to "put it to work" and learning to install a DCB with what I have on hand.

Besides, this won't be my last and only IR AFV

fsciorelli

Glen,

Checkout the ongoing thread I've been working on with my HL Pz III H.  Part of this project is to convert a Pz III H from airsoft to Heng Long IR battle system.  I'm not done with the thread by any means, but most of the HL IR Battle sytem is already done in this thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm

Good luck

Glen B

Thanks, Frank

pcsguy88

Simple? Never have gotten my PIII to work as well as the factory IR system. Figuring out how to wire the recoil and the flash is difficult and my 2 factory HL's (KV-1 & Panther G) were wired completely different from each other. Maybe I just got a bad unit, but my PIII will actually fire twice for every barrel recoil if your timing isn't absolutely perfect. Sucks.

YHR

Pscguy88

I used to struggle when trying to tie into the Heng long wiring. Most often now I just rewire the whole tank. I do not use the common positive wiring that Heng Long likes I ensure the recoil part of the gun is completely isolated from all other systems with it's on positive and negative supply. Once I did that, the recoil was solid. The only timing issue I have now is that the DBC does not control the recoil circuit. So If I don't wait long enough for IR reloading, I can sometmies get the cannon recoil without flash, sound or IR

Glen B

Firemantim and I (well, mostly Firemantim ) worked on the Stg III last night.

There's just a few more things to adjust but the main IR and driving functions work well.

One question; does anyone have a description of arecommended procedure to remove the gun/mantlet? We found it to be a challenging little mechanical puzzle; it got done but there has to be a better, easier way to do it.