kamaz2010

Take a look at this link for permanent battery assembly for Heng Long tanks.

http://www.hobbyhavoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=2154.0

YHR

Why the two DPDT switches?????

A single DPDT with a center off position can do the same thing with less wiring???

You wire the battery to the center poles, left side to charging jack and the right side to the RX 18

In the center off positon no current flows. Move the switch to the right side and a connection is made to the RX 18 and the battery, move the switch to the left and a connection is made to the battery and the charging jack

kamaz2010

Dude, that is DPDT switch, don´t you see that on that picture I´ve done?

Here is the real one:
http://www.porfusion.com/quad/switch2.jpg

Can you see that on my drawing it has 6 legs, and that those legs are numbered to make it easier to solder?

YHR

I know it is a DPDT, I never said it wasn't.

I am asking why you need two!!!!!!, and commeted you can use a DPDT with a center off position to totally remove the battery from the circiut when the tank is off.

So please explain the need for two, because it seems the same thing can be accomplished with one.

danlrc

Kamaz -
I think you drew the one switch from two views.

Here's a circuit that works even better and is pretty much the standard way to do this:

SyCo_VeNoM

it is one switch, its just not drawn properly.
kinda confused me too when I looked at it originally.

hulu

I did it for my panzer III. It is very easy

YHR

Yes this is what I am talking about.

I now get the original drawing. I have never quite seen one presented that way before Left and right side of the switch ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Excuse my dudeness.

kamaz2010

Dude, I know you´ll get it!

I made this scheme for easy assembly, but this is not an accurate representation of the circuit (not marked with international symbols of electrical components), it is more schematic representation for people who don´t get those ´high-tech´ symbols, but still want to solve the problem of permanent battery.

kamaz2010

@hulu: I see you have Imax B6 charger, I got one  too, but did you have this problem: the charger has Tamiya female connector as multi role connector (to connect to other ports for Li-Po or Li-Fe Battery) , but one on the 7,2v Battery Pack is Tamya female too. I see that you used different one for Panzer.

danlrc

Kamaz -
I'll be blunt. Your circuit works, but is a nonstandard way to do it. If you use the standard approach I posted above, the battery is totally isolated when the switch is in the center position. No extra jumpers as noted in your post are necessary. to isolate the battery.

hulu

Hi Kamaz, I create this connector by myself.

Perry S.

That still makes it more complex than it needs to be. Just parallel connect a charging jack prior to the main power switch. I never understood the need for DPDT switches and the like.

Perry

YHR

In the case of Danlrc's post the DPDT becomes the main and only switch. I wire up all my tanks this way.

Perry S.

Sure I understand that but there is no need to change the original switch to one. I just use the stock switch. I am not sure what extra functionality the dpdt switch adds. Doesn't it just complicate things? Now you have a switch position for on, off, and charge. Where I only have two and no need to fiddle with a third. Am I missing something?

Perry

danlrc

Perry - the reason for the DPDT with center off is to totally break the circuit on both the negative and positive lines as close to the battery as possible. This is probably more from the model boat side where moisture is present, though tanks probably can have pretty much moisture exposure too. If any line, even the ground/neg line is left connected to the battery, a condition called "blackwire" occurs after a while, especially with any moisture present. The wire basically corrodes away. Also, if both neg and pos are cut off at the switch, the chance of any short circuit while transporting/storing is greatly reduced.
No big deal for any of this - I just posted the most typical tried-and-true method.

Perry S.

Ok Dan. I think we were both typing at the same time.
Perry

swathdiver

This is my highly sophisticated design and high tech wiring diagram using the stock switch (sarcasm). With no power to the electronics (Off) you can charge the battery.

Perry S.

Swath,
That's how mine are wired too.

Perry

fsciorelli

Swathdiver,
What's that box with the dots in it? A junction box of some type?

An other question, without a lot of searchning I see there are sliding DPDT switches, so is there a unit that will fit in the same envelope/interfaces as the stock HLon/off switch?

Frank

swathdiver

Perry, I probably stole the idea from you!

Frank, it's the little junction block on the smoker or the one under the upper hull.

kamaz2010

To simplify the logic behind my circuit: 'on' phase connects battery with the RX-18, while the charger connector is outside the circle. In the 'off'´ position connector for the charger is connected to a battery, but at the same time positive and negative poles of the RX-18 are connected, so that capacitors on the RX-18 can empty . 
Discharging capacitor switching option enables RC tank / car / airplane to be without initial jerks for electronics and suddenly unwanted wheel spin when RC car is turned on (in ´stand by´ state).

So this can be seen as extra safe precaution.

And yes, I´m complicated dude!!!

swathdiver

I get it now!