easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

I would like to upgrade my Tiger 1 guys.

what are good metal tracks to get ?

How can I get the tank a bit slower it drives too fast now.

what motors are good to get for some more torque and less speed as I would not prefer changing trannys .

cheers

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

You would be much better off upgrading to a set of 3:1 gears, which will increase torque and give you a much stronger gearbox too.

thecommander

The least expensive route would be smaller pinions on the motors. It will lower speed and increase torque. Add on gear reductions are the next and new 3 to 1 TUs are the most costly. There are many fine tracks avavilable in metal. I run stock Tamiya plastics for battle so I'l let the others who know better council you on that.

Good luck, Bob

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

Oops, I read the post wrong. Tamiya Tiger 1 you can use the  geardowns offered by ETO armor.
As for metal tracks, I am running KK tracks on mine. He offers both the early and late style tracks for the Tiger 1

sevoblast

First off, we need to know what type of Tamiya transmissions you have. Do they have black covers, or are they open with 3 large spur gears of white nylon with smaller brass gear inserts in the white gears. That will decide how to slow him down.

Kenny Kong tracks are out of stock at etoarmour.com. All other parts are in stock.

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

hello

Okay I looked this morning into the gears and they are open with white gears for sure .

Now I looked at the pinion gear and its fixed on the motor ?

What is the best option to do this ?

thank you guys

modeltank

run a search at evil 8ay using "1/16 tiger metal tracks"

you will see many tiger I metal tracks for your selection.
There is even one at $0.01 start bid.

there is also manheader (evil 8ay) selling KK Tiger I tracks too.

Green Amphibian

To get the gear off without damaging the motor you need to get a mini gear puller. A good RC hobby shop should be able to either do it for you or get one for you. You could also try using screwdrivers, but you are taking a chance on ruining the motors.

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks green Anphibian,

now where do I get the smaller gear ?

what is the smallest one I can install on that motor ?

sevoblast

You have one of the original Tiger 1 kits with the Type 1 transmissions in it. Putting a smaller gear on it, available from etoarmour.com as are the metal tracks, will not slow it down enough to be realistic. You will need the ZUH19 gear down set from eto. It comes with 3 different sets of gears. The 10 tooth gear goes on the gear down to bolt to the transmission. Use the 12 tooth on the motor, check your speed, and if you need more speed, use the 14 tooth gear. While you are at it you may as well upgrade the motors to the short or long black cans, again on the etoarmour.com sight.

Photos show the Type 1's with add on gear reduction. Ignore the reinforcement and steel gears, these are actually modified Type 1's for a real no holds barred, 'my Sherman is stuck under his tracks' fighter. Last photo is what you can do with the interior of your tank. Again, ignore some of the bracing, this is actually a Jagdtiger, the lower hull of which is longer than a KT, but otherwise identical. Some bracing, however, you may want to make and install. It's easy to do.

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

thanks Sevoblast good points.

Is there anything more affordable ?

100 bucks for two gears and some small parts that seems alot to me ?

sevoblast

You can order a pair of the latest Type 3 TU's from AAF Museum in Danville, VA. Type 3's are pretty strong, and with them you can go with the 8 tooth pinion gear to get pretty prototypical speeds. Here's the link:

http://www.aaftankmuseum.com/tiger1main.htm

The Type 3's will be a little more reliable, as the final drive shaft is all one piece, as opposed to your Type 1's, where the out drive is a separate brass piece held on by one or two set screws, depending on when it was made. Another good thing about the Type 3's is if, over time, you wear them out (and that takes a LONG time), you can get an overhaul kit from Tamiya or AAF and rebuild the TU. With the Type 1's, they are discontinued for some time now, and parts are no longer available.

I use the Type 1's to build extremely heavy duty competition transmissions, installing various braces and hardened steel gears, and the Schumo ZUH19 gear down with black long can motors. They are so strong that they will shred tracks if you jam a stone in them, like happens here in this rock garden called home. They are so strong that I install one of the stock gears at the final drive shaft to act as a sacrificial lamb in case I do jam a track. Much better to shred a gear I have lots of rather than a 50 buck steel gear from UK. For competitions, however, the stock gear is removed and a steel gear installed.

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

Can I install a larger spur / smaller pinion gears ?

Does anyone make them as I looked into the TU and there is room for larger spurs .

why bother changing TU as mine are BN . I run the tank inside most times and deck outside.


Is it possible to change just those two gears ???

sevoblast

You run in to a geometry problem, and finding the correct metric pitch gears for the trans can be interesting. You can try the 8 tooth pinion gears, and see how they do. That's a roughly 20% speed reduction. In time, if you find it not acceptable, then you can go with the gear downs or the Type 3 TU's.

You will find that good parts do cost. There's a lot of junque out there, but for the good parts, you will pay a bit more up front, but in the long run you will save money. For instance, my geardowns have been in service since early 2003, some of them, with many a Danville Meet on them, and not a one has EVER failed. The transmissions themselves, well, if you try hard enough, you can even strip a hardened steel gear, which has been done here. The gear down was not affected at all, but the final drive gear was toast.

yellowshaker

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Sev, is that mud or concrete? LOL

sevoblast

Yes.

thecommander

How are you making out easyy11?

I am always budget conscious in all my tanking. I have many "tank mouths" to feed in my fleet of IR battle tanks and a few real ones too. Some guys have really deep pockets and I have a 12 and 15 year old. They each have their own tank and run them well. I can't afford all the up-grades that exist out there and only use metal tracks on my Panzer III and IV variants. God bless the guys that can afford many of these up-grades for the can greatly enhance tank performance. You have chosen wisely in replacing the pinion gears. It will be the cheapest ($7 to $15) and you can use the original TUs and motors. Any decent RC shop would probably pull the gear off for you. If you drop down a few teeth that will slow the tank and transmit more motor torque. The new gears can be pressed on (with extreme caution....ask first) or can be secured with a set screw (easy to change) depending on which you prefer. This may required some elongation of the large motor mount hole and one of the two screw holes to allow the motor to pivot closer to the first TU gear. The metal tracks will slow it too. I got my gears from Impact with my three gear reduction TUs as a package. If you opt to buy a gear puller buy a good one(about $35).

Let us know how you make out. Bob, NEAD CO

easyy 11

My Feedback: (2)

thank you for the ideas thecommender. .

where is the best place for pinion gears in terms of choice.

I can modify the mounts to allow for that sure just use my dremel tool.

I even considered using two 540 crawler motors like 55 T and modify the TU to fit them .

When you put the pinion on the motor did it slow it down enough ?

surely beats spending 100 bucks