Reading TSULLs piece on his King Tiger he mentioned his way of splitting top from bottom, is there a definative way of doing that which ensures ease of opening but security when closed? Not just for KTs but for all Tanks.

Most 1/16 tanks can be easily opened. Some are just a few screws (HLPzr III/Stug) and some are very involved (HL Tiger I). It may be comtingent on what you do with your tank. I do fast paced IR tank battle so I need a very secure hull system. IF you don't battle you may just get away with gravity or a magnetic retaining system. I rolled my newest Sherman yesterday at Bretts in PA and it came back onto its tracks and I kept battling. No harm or damage done. It is a stock Tamiya M4 and uses two side friction latches to hold the upper to the lower. Just spread the hull outward to open and push doen to reinstall. Some guys use magnets. Most Tamiya FO kits use a very secure built in screw in the rear and have a interlocking lip in the front of the tank (Panther, KT, JP, KVs ...etc) On my Tam-Long tanks Pzr III & Stugs is use one screw in the front that goes thru the lower hull into the upper. The rear two screws were eliminated and replaced with long metal studs with lock into the upper hull holes where the two rear screws used to be. It is very secure and can be opened in under 30 seconds. What kind of tank do you need help on?

It is a HL mk IV with metal wheels, sprockets, idlers, rollers, tracks, idler adjustment arms, axle support bearings and metal gearboxes, so there is a lot of metal in and on a flimsy plastic hull so I figure my priority is security of the upper hull to the bottom first and ease of access second but I am open to suggestions, anything would be better than Heng Longs way of doing it.

The problem with the HL system of screws is that if literally "sucks" the two halves together which provides part of the rigidity of the hull. If you don't use the screws, you need to build a support system that provides for the rigidity of the hulls. On my KT, I found out the hard way that once the screw post were removed, the hull flexed in odd ways which created a real hassle in building a rigid system.

With the two door cabinet door magnets locking the back down (I have to literally push and lift up as the magnets provide such a strong hold), I used the two front screw post for upgraded hex screws. I don't need to use the screws for normal operation, but it really locks the hulls together.

With Heng Longs, one thing always seems to lead to another....

tjs

My honest opinion of this is to drill out the standoffs to fit magnets in there. Glue them in place. on both the top and bottom of the halves. As long as you use good magnets.

I tried that first. The problem was I cut out the battery box and had very little structural support left. The flex was too great and my magnets weren't holding.

But, now I'm worried it weighs too much and even with metal arms, wheels and treads, the attachment points will still be too weak and I'll end up tearing out the plastic.

Here's a thought:

I was reading on how to take a ABS plastic piece and by using a process similar to wax casting, you can build the mold, insert the mold with the ABS piece embedded into a furnace at 1200 degrees and it will melt the ABS out of the mold. Once the ABS is melted out, the mold is ready to receive the molten aluminum.

Carefully make the pour and after cooling, crack the mold (it's only good for one pour).

Instant ALL ALUMINUM HENG LONG TANK (about 2% smaller)!

This is also the process that is starting to be used with 3D Printers printing with ABS.

Kinda brings up some scary images (not the least is all the inaccuracies in the HL now cast in metal).

I think the HL ABS plastic is a combination of materials. Looks like I'll pass and live another day.

tjs