How do you do paint chipping on a tank.<br type="_moz" />

There are a lot, some of them are complicated for big scales.
I recommned this one for novices, is easy and funnny.
http://www.modelersite.com/en/1154/w...onge-technique

It depends if it's pre or post paint. I'm assuming you're working with an already painted surface.

This is my take on it, I wrote it about 7 years ago and still use it. There are many other methods, but this works best for me. You can fill with metal, red oxide, rust or all three.

http://ausfwerks.com//techniques/chip/main.html

AUSF that looks to good. I'd love to be that good.

The sponge technigue dose not come close to your's.

Thanks all for your input.

Ausf is very talented....he is also an ok tank driver....thankfully his boys are much better then he is.

Here they are at one of our NEAD battledays.

Too kind guys.

Especially regarding my driving abillty. Although I found a way to level the playing field: I add track links to their tanks at night while they sleep.

Sometimes is not the best but the one you can do.
As I told you before there are a lot of techniques, I supposed that if you are asking, it’s because don't know much about that, pigments, oils...etc.
The best technique I know is the hairdryer one, but honestly I think is very much for what we are talking here ( Miguel Jimenez MIG made a terrific Dragon 1/16 with 4 layers chipped)

So back to the beginning, I strongly recommend to begin with simple techniques, if you are looking for a little difficult one, then the salt is a choice.
http://www.modelersite.com/en/481/a-...que-using-salt

The chipped paint using brushes has been useful for years but nowadays there are new techniques with better advance results, but as I commented before, they are more useful for advance modelers and / or 1/35 scale.

By the other hand, remember that WWII American didn’t have chipped paint, but scratches and other kind of marks. The tanks were painted without base paint and cured to high temperature ( like the powdering we know today)
Good luck!

I referred to the Mig Jimenez blog as well.
I also looked at old copies of the Japanese magazine Armour Modeling.
I used a very fine brush (00) and Testers modeling master enamels, because they dry slower.

I build up in thin layers in this order:

-Dunkelgelg-(lightened with white) to show wear around edges of chipped areas and over areas of green and red brown
-Rust- also resembles the German primer color
-a mix of Gun Metal and rust -to make the exposed steel color
-Steel- to drybrush highlights

Some important factors to consider:

-practice-Spray paint some scrap sprues or unused parts and practice on them first.
-patients-Do one area of the tank at a time and don't over do it. (restraint is hard)
-planning-Think about how the tank was used and what high traffic areas would be.
For example, I imagined how the commander would climb up the ladder and step on top of the turret and climb in to the cupola.
-Avoid creating patterns, or chipping at regular intervals, the chipping process would occur organically or more randomly

I am try to load a picture but I keep getting an error.
Yea RCU!
If you click on my name and go to my profile and click on Gallery, I have some pics of my Panther, which was my first real attempt at chipping.
I did not try it on my Pershing.
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My take on it is using the sponge technique to chip down to your tanks base layer, then hand paint additional chips over this. Mixture of brown and dark grey gives a nice steel colour, I then very sparingly add flecks of red oxide.

The results:




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I like, quite simple but effective looking

Yup, using th&eacute; sponge gives you control but still provides a nice random pattern. Then you can build on this by hand with the base metal colour and red oxide.