Alright, my TK22 came in today (two days early!), got the clark board, flash unit, tbu base, found out now he is back ordered on remotes though...

Gonna start this thread for a question or two I have now, and the inevitable future ones


What is this small LED next to left of the emitter? Is it for the headlight..?

Is there a method to getting the HL plugs out of the RX18? They my arch nemesis right now, taking forever just to get one out

The little one be the Flash for the barrel

whats flash tube like thing attached to the flash unit? Additional flash?

Can someone reword what the SW plug is about?

from the clark site:

"HL tank already have power switch on battery cable path, so additional switch is no longer required, just to short pins in this port by jumper or connect to a switch cable and keep it switched on.

http://www.clark-model.com/chi/prod_rx20/jump.jpg


When higher current track motors are used, such as 400/480 motor,power switch on battery cable path will not be able to handle, connect a switch cable (for example, HL Smoke Unit Switch Cable) to this port as power switch."


I have stock motors right now.

Just to make sure, I should put a jumper there (like in the picture) because I don't have upgraded motors? Or just go ahead and connect the smoker's old switch to this?

or use a small toggle switch in case you want to upgrade later to bigger motors .
Otherwise just use the smoker or a jumper plug.

Alright, thanks, I will just use the smoker switch. Will probably upgrade motors in the future.

Do you have the other switch installed? If so, just jump the connection on the board with regular stock motors. You have a choice of which flash unit to use, the LED, or the xenon bulb, which is also shown in that picture. The xenon bulb is big and gets very hot with multiple firing of the main gun if installed.

Herman

I assume the xenon bulb is more powerful, How hot does it get? Do I have to worry about melted plastic? The barrel is metal, but the muzzle brake is not.


I got the basic stuff plugged in- speakers, motors, battery, switch, and the reciever. I am kinda overwhelmed on the other parts, so I will need to read through those a good bit before I am willing to hook them up.

ignore this post, I had missed something on the clark page.

No need for extra battery RX gets its power from the four RX connectors coming from Clark Board .

Jimmy

Alright, I can't get it to do anything. Checked the wiring countless times, rx is binded, its recieving power, I can see the light on my rx turn on when I turn it on, and the speaker makes a small noise when its shut off.

Any ideas? Not getting any sound or movement from any stick movements



I don't have any IR/gun related or led functions wired to it right now if that matters

Checked all the wiring again this morning, everything in the lower hull is wired, but it still doesn't do anything, I hope to god its not a faulty board and I just have something miswired.

added pic of setup

Don't get discouraged. You are doing what many tankers cannot, so carry on. If all else fails just bring it to Danville with you next Friday and we will sort it our with you. What radio are you using? Many guys use sophisticated radios and when they are not set up properly the DBU & Clark boards become troublesome. Check the trims and base settings. If you are not used to digital trims they can be difficult. FYI.... I have the Sony remote for the Clark and I will bring it with me to Danville next Friday.

spektrum dx7s

Can you explain that more

I am not the best guy for Spectrum radios so I will let someone else who knows the better help. You must master the radio functions first before running the tank. ALWAYS keep it up on a block to prevent a runaway.

martellus Your remote is going out tomorrow and here is the connections for all spectrums that should work
Spectrum Series Of Radios DX5e, DX6i, DX7 ( Orange recievers and Spectrum recievers are the same set up )
Clark Board Receiver
Channel 1 Aileron
Channel 2 Elevator
Channel 3 Throttle
Channel 4 Rudder Throttle and Elevator are Reversed, Aileron and Rudder are Normal

your wiring looks ok from what I see. I am thinking it could be that you have the wires going into the reciever backwards. the white or signal wire should be at the top of the reciever or the side with the printing on it that faces you. I can't really tell in the pics you posted.

I have the black wires going to what I thought would be negative, (side facing up in the pics with the stickers), but yes, good idea, i will try that.


Also yeah, I have a box I am using as a block

They were all in the right order already, I swapped them with the white wires facing up, still nothing though


if the white wire is signal, then judging by the markings on the reciever it should be facing down, but neither orientations result in anything working, so I guess its probably not that

was hoping it was, lol

FreakyDude, just sent you another PM about Clark TK35. Been trying to contact you via Immortalhobbies contact as well.

Hahahahaha, wow am I dumb


I plugged in a random servo to my reciever to make sure it was working and noticed it would go to default position but not respond to controls...

Rebinded reciever, and it started right up....


Now just to get everything else setup.

Yet another reason why I swear by the Futaba 4YF. K I S S

Programmable radios are great with channel mixing and servo recoil. The issue is they are so programmable and it is possible to get the sticks and functions completely twisted up. When you start having issues, it makes trouble shooting hard. Now the DBC3 Benedini is simple simple,, but because of programmable radios I have had to do some trouble shooting.

If someone is having a problem, the first thing I tell them to do is get a standard radio that you know works and use that.

If I had to choose one radio, I'd stay with Spektrum, the options of a programable Tx are too good to pass up. It was essential for me to learn to fly, without mixes and dual rates I would have given up long ago. In terms of tanks, like Dan said, servo recoil, etc are better controlled with a programable and setting up things like a raking MG are possible.

That said, it can be confusing. With all those options, one slip up somewhere with a travel adjustment, servo reverse or sub trim and it'll take a while to figure it out. Bill and I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out a miss in recoil on his StuG, only to find it a simple fix that we stumbled upon. Just last night I switched my Tammy Tiger I over to the DX6i so I could free up one of my old Futaba Attacks for the Panther. I set up the raking MG to the gear switch and wanted to be able to activate the main gun firing by the throttle cut button (right above the right stick). After a bunch of hair pulling, I got it to work, but the settings had to be so specific: elevator set to 106% (less and it wouldn't fire, over 108% and the gun would elevate with the stick) and subtrim to 36% up.

I have three Futabas and love them with a straight forward 4 channel Tamiya builds, but they're no go on stuff like the Kettenkrad where it demands some mixing.

An aluminum tube would be ok for an emitter tube right? As long as its within the width and depth requirements? Just want to be 100% before I install this


to clarify as in, its fine being metal and unpainted. I don't need to paint the inside or something?