Yes it will work I got some from ETO Armor and there dual aluminum and brass tubing will work also .

Jimmy

Alright, Thanks.

Make the tube yourself if you can. Brass or Alum or even plastic. I've seen guys effectively use drinking straws even. Nine mm depth from LED tip to end of the tube, and as narrow as possible for the Emitter. DO PAINT THE INSIDE WITH FLAT PAINT. Or else you get "IR Splash" tot eh left and right (really bad on metal emitter tubes) which results in many "Friendly Fire" issues. Don't paint over the emitter either. Glue it in place with rubber cement (easy to remove and reinstall). Some of the nicer tubes you can buy have retaining clips and or screws. On a Stug put it where HL Had their IR emitter. Blow the IR tube out with air every now and then with canned air to keep out dust, dirt and FOD.

Yeah I bought some tubing from the little K&S stand at the local hobby shop and cut it down, Its actually a bit more than 9mm just to be on the safe side.

That's fine. Can't wait to see it. Any PIX????

its just in parts right now, will install parts and put together tommorow

although its just a bare looking hl stug :P

You can buy styrene tube of the exact size ID to fit tightly over an emitter , and easily cut to length.

Can someone take a picture of how the apple base should face?

just did some small drill/dremel work to get the emitter tube a nice space in the mantlet, the drill batteries ended up being dead so I had to take an alternate solution lol

Old things work well also. Except me, I don't work at all! LOL

Herman

Are you going to bring your amphibious vehicles to danville? I would love to see them again, and hopefully in an operable state.




someone know which way does the tbu/apple plug need to be oriented?

Do you mean the leads themselves in the plug, or just the base in general?

If it's just the base, it needs to be aligned so it's perpendicular or parallel to the midline of the tank, however you prefer. On the Pamther and JS-2, it runs perp, on the Pz IV and Tiger I, parallel. As long as the pins line up with a set of cardinal points, North and South or East and West, you're fine.

The LEDs are aligned with the pyramid edges, so they indicate the 45.

If it's the leads on the plug, I'll give you a photo, you don't want to mess them up, that's why the TBU base has the circular bump out, to make sure the pins are coordinated.

naw the leads and everything is already done, just didn't know which way the base needed to be oriented, Thanks.

Yes, the LVT's will be there. I am also bringing a work in progress scratch build tank to get opinions on. Still a lot to do on it, but enough has been done so you can see what it is anyway.

Herman

Not gonna start a new thread for the same topic

anyway, I noticed the flash unit doesn't always seem to go off when the gun fires any ideas? plugged in snugly and whatnot