Hey everyone. I was wondering how one fills the holes left behind by the on/off, sound and smoke switches to have a flat surface. I have cut and fit bits of Styrene to partially fill the hole where the smoke switch on the HL T34, but whenever I buy a replacement lower hull, I would like to relocate the remaining switches. Hence why I ask how to go about filling the holes.

Cheers guys.

a lot of times i put styrene inside where the hole is then i use automotive spot putty to fill the other side let it dry add more if i have to, sand then paint or i use metal tape also an automotive item and fill with spot putty

I was thinking styrene, but making an intricate circle is going to be hard for me without chopping one of my fingers off. I'll give it a go. Would putting masking tape on the inside and then put spot filler, wait for the filler to dry and then reinforce it be a viable option? It sounded less complicated in my head, but I hope it makes a bit of sense.

Fill it with whatever your favorite or easily obtainable non shrinking, sanding filler you have (that is safe for plastic). I use Aves, some guys prefer bondo, others Milliput or Squadron putty. It's all good.

Tape would be fine as a backing to hold, you may want to back it with something solid so you don't push through. If the hole is wide, you can throw some wire or screen to help the putty hold. Make sure you get it tight around the edges for a good hold. You can rough up the inside edge for a better bond.

Dose the opening look like this? See Photo. IF so you can by this cover from rctank.de or fill it with Aves. Aves is good stuff. I included the link for the cover as well.

http://www.rctank.de/Cover-platte-Ja...tal-lower-hull

Edit... Maybe IMEX will carry these soon??? Erik are you out there?

I am always trolling around here Most probably not, you won't see many plastic hulls in the future from us. Especially on the newest one I haven't announced yet
I like the Aves stuff myself too, never lets me down.

Putty is good for final finishing but without a solid backing there is a chance it would crumble. I'd use styrene or thin aluminum for the backing. Carbon fiber sheet is also an option but not the least expensive one. Bondo is strong, dries rock hard, available everywhere and cheap, at least per oz. Compared to putty. And can be molded and shaped while still wet

I put tape across the bottom and then fill from the inside with either resin or 2 part epoxy. This is solid and a nice smooth surface that you don't need to sand and can even be drilled if needed. This is what I do when I gut my plastic hulls of that stupid battery box in the HL's..

Guys, what if you are closing off a much bigger opening. Let me explain. I have a Panzer III that I want to do some work on. Specifically, I want to remove the battery box and close off the hole that will leave in the hull. I plan to use styrene to do this, but I'm wondering what glue/epoxy/putty you recommend to use?
Thanks
Kevin

why not just use the battery box cover, and just epoxy it in place?

Yes, That would fill the hole, however I think it needs to be backed up inside for strength. What kind of epoxy would you use? That's really what I was looking for.
Thanks,
Kevin

I used Aves for this, including the waffle zim, but as stated, all mentioned putties will work.

That looks like it right there!!

Thanks, guys

Erik, the plate is not for a plastic hull it is for a metal Taigen hull to cover the hole if you remove the Taigen on/off and volume switches on the bottom of the new metal hulls. Here is a photo to show where it goes on the new Panther/JagdPanther metal hull. So would you consider carrying them now?

I'll look into it. The only tank it would be valid for us is the T34 atm. We don't carry the metal Panther/Jagdpanther hulls so it is limited use currently. I will keep this in mind though. Anything else while I'm at it?

So, not metal Taigen Panther/JagdPanther lower hulls? Or will they com on the new Panthers and JagdPanthers in the future?

It's easy to cut circles with a compass. Just put another needle in instead of a pencil and scribe away. You have to turn slowly and a shorter, more sharply angled point works better as a scribe on plastic than a long taper. Like anything else styrene, you can break away at the scribe but you have to do relief cuts up to the scribe line first.

No, unfortunately not. Moving forward though, count on metal lowers. Big changes are starting this year, you will all be happy with the direction we are taking I will announce some news when the T34 comes out and inform you guys a bit better.

Erik,You are such a tease!!!!

That's what she said! But seriously though guys, big changes. I have been working on a few things everyone would want but no one really thinks of doing... You guys gave most the ideas too, I can't always respond to things but I do listen. I know I'm just the "Taigen guy," but hopefully you will see me as one of you soon enough. This next tank you all deserve for sure

so curious now