Greetings all,
I'm new to tanks and need to learn about maintenance and preventative maintenance. I did go and buy a soldering gun today. I'm particularly interested in what I need to do to the gear boxes and treads. I've heard the treads will need to be tightened/adjusted every now and then? Can someone explain that to me and show me where I can learn to do it? Also, I believe it was maxu who posted a wiring diagram in another thread? Is there a place I can go to in order to get these diagrams so I can print them out? Thank you!

Joel

I use a toothbrush and a few different types of paintbrushes to clean the dried dirt/sand/grass shavings off my tank when done driving. I also use a can of compressed air or my compressor to clean out the inside of the tank and the tracks. A little bit of white lithium grease applied to the gearboxes will handle most of the maintenance there. Just make sure to look at the gears every once and a while to make sure they are clean. The tracks need to be a bit loose, but not so much that your track jumps off the drive wheel. You did get the Torro KT right? It has adjustable idlers for each side of the tank to get the track tension where you like it.
Once your tank comes in, PM me and I'll make you a video on how to adjust for that model. As for the wiring diagrams....

Here are the main three you will need. If you have any other questions please ask

Hey Erik, do the new torro tanks include the sheet that covers how to bind the TX/RX? That sheet also has motherboard info (it's been included with all my taigen tanks), and if it's not in with Joel's new tank that would be a very useful sheet for him to have. Hey, I've got it stuck to the bulletin board in my hobby room!

How about a video instead?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-ddQjBcPCY&list=UUGaIYXgbvJbnMyoeV5PIe2w Sometimes the toggle switch thing gets people on the phone or on paper. One of these days I will make a full video manual for these guys...

Does the tank have to be bound every time you use it?

Terry

Once the tracks are adjusted properly, meaning the tank drives straight and they generally stay on under different conditions, they won't need readjusting unless you change the weight of the tank, alter the suspension or if the suspension weakens over time. Each tank brand and model will have a different adjustment system, so you'll need to be specific.

An important tip is to store your tanks on blocks high enough to keep the roadwheels off the ground. I buy an eight foot section of primed square molding from Home Depot and cut it to one foot lengths, screwing/glueing two together. That way it's just barely off the ground and less likely to tip over. Some guys use 4X4s, bricks etc. I stored my Tamiya Tiger for the first 8 years or so on it's tracks and it fatigued the torsion bars and settled down to zero suspension over time. It's also important since it keeps the tracks off the ground in case you're doing some work with it on and don't want it to jump off the table in case you bump the throttle.

Removing the tracks is something you may have to do occasionally, or at least remount if they pop off. I took a small screwdriver and embedded a track pin in the handle. which works well to push a track pin out enough to get a pair of pliers on it. When you put the tracks back on, it's usually easiest to couple the sections together on the drive sprocket, it holds them in space at the proper distance.

I keep the gearboxes lubed with ceramic grease. It's what Tamiya uses and it's plastic safe. Don't buy Tamiya's, you can get much larger quantities cheaper from other sources. Fishing reels and bikes use too, so they're a good source. I'll clean the gearboxes if they get really dirty, but otherwise there's not much to do. Some guys will completely clean and degrease regularly, it's up to you and your preference. My Tiger I gears are running fine after 10 years without trouble and they haven't been cleaned.
It really depends upon use and conditions you run it in.

The best maintenance is preventive. Try and seal off the areas that allow dirt to enter the chassis and contaminate you grease. Also create a cover that contains any grease that may sling off.

Besides that just keep the gears wet and the electronics dry and it'll go.

No. Once the receiver is initially bound to the transmitter you shouldn't have to bind it again.

I haven't been in this too long myself, but I've definitely learned that hey, it's a hobby, you HAVE to work on this stuff. I think it's cool that you want to learn about gearboxes. I did this three part video when I stripped a gearbox and I was thinking about posting it under a separate thread (one of those Mod Squad lunacies I do) but it's NOT my best work. If you want to watch them and see if they answer any questions that would be cool, and even cooler would be If you could give me your opinion. Were they helpful or did I just come off looking like a pretentious gomer? If you watch them here's a couple things that got left out of the video:

The tank is an Imex full metal Tiger I late in IR. The calipers are just $9.99 at Harbor Freight (with the coupon) and I know at first I say it will be two parts but I guess I'm a long-winded SOB.

Also, I hear guys on here talking about breaking in a gearbox. Have you learned anything about that? I haven't, but it sounds interesting so any info you can share would be cool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aPiXiDCqTA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2owITsmrHZs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1FR7ojjDkU

Hmm, looks like it only posted part one here and you have to use the link for the other two? I've seen posts with more than one video, guess now I have something else to learn.

What the heck, I'll post it and see what happens.

Well, it worked for me and I was able to watch part one here in the post and then I click on the links for part two and three and they seemed to work OK, so you know what they say ... If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

PM Is critical. I used the same gearboxes in my Panther for 4 1/2 years at Danville and NEAD events before one started to fail. PM Is crucial. Seal off the TU's from the outside (output shafts to sprockets and all holes) and then cover them to keep lubes in and debris out. See my Before & After page for pix http://www.rctankcommand.com/before-...er-photos.html for more. Note..... I said LUBES. Yes, two lubricants. Most guys lube the gear faces and ignore the TU shafts and bearings/bushings. The face of the gears run cooler and tend to throw off oil that the shafts & bearings need. Oil the TUS (I use Prolong or singer sewing machine oil) with a needle point tip. Don't drive the TUs by motor just work it in by hand spinning. Then lube the gear faces with grease and again work it in by hand turning. I use white lithium which discolors with wear telling me when it is time to clean or re-lube. Dark greases don't. Cover them to keep the grease in and dirt. wires and loose parts/screws out. It is them most stressed part in your tank. Take care of them and they will take care of you..

Bob, you have to remember you're talkin' to new guys, so when you say things like PM and TU it helps to explain at least once. PM for preventive maintenance is fairly easy, even though we also use PM for private message, but TU was new to me. Transmission Unit? about the only thing that makes sense.

Singer oil is good, but plain old 3 in 1 Oil doesn't break down or fly off as fast (just so you know I was payin' attention the last time we talked about this, Bob, you'll notice in the video I mentioned everything had been "greased, lubed and loctited, where appropriate") and a good white grease for tanks is called "Lubriplate". I use dark grease, but only because I get some super hitec stuff at work. I've done the hand spinning thing on brand new gearboxes, and I've found that to hit bearings and bushings a tube from WD40 works well. I dip it in 3in1, put my finger over the end like you do on a straw, and that transfers just enough oil to do the job, and the tube is easy to control for application.

So is that what it means to break in a gearbox? Is there a running period at certain speeds, or what?

Some run the motor low speeds in each direction for about 30-45 minutes to evenly wear in the brushes. That definitely makes sense to me.

Some also do that with gearboxes, even using lapping compound (for automotive valves), then cleaning and greasing. An equal amount of guys are dead against the compound unless you're able to dismantle and absolutely clean out every bit of the stuff.

I've done the motor break in myself and usually do if I think of it, but in terms of the gearboxes, I'm not worried about it. I only use Tamiya gearboxes at this point and never had an issues with them. If I was working with a $400 box, heck yeah, I'd spend a few hours breaking it in. If I was dealing with a cheap HL, maybe I'd use lapping compound to mesh the gears better. As it is, I've never had even the slightest issue with Tamiya gears (2 sets are my most used, still running after over a decade), except for a broken bearing and a bent shaft, both from impact from height.

Ausf, would "impact from height" also be considered a gravity attack?

I've always heard the fall is no big deal, it's the sudden stop at the end that can be a bother.

Obey gravity, it's the law.

Both accounts were a sudden attack of stupidity, the worst going something like this (internal dialog): "Hmmmm, I'll just put this Sherman right here, balanced precariously on the edge of this table. No need to turn it off since I'll be using it as soon as I drive the Tiger over". Only problem was I was still holding the Sherman Tx.

Can I use chassis grease no. 2 on the metal gearbox?

Chassis grease: "Grease exclusive for chassis with superior water resistance and adhesiveness"

Yep... foam in those critical areas that need to be sealed off is the best thing to use.

Even right around the axles too... it won't slow the tank down!





Jeff

Lubriplate (White automotive type grease) on the gears and any light weight oil on the gear bushings / driveshaft bearings. I've been using the same high-speed bearing oil bottle for 3 years. Stuff lasts forever and is perfect for tanks. The stuff you want probably comes in a small bottle with a long thin needle tip.

Otherwise try to keep flying grease out of the rest of your tank, and keep wires out of your gearboxes!

I already grease the gears. WD40 suitable for the bushing?

WD40 is not a lubricant. It is a fish oil compound that displaces water. Use a light weight oil to lubricate the bushings or bearings.

Herman

Good old 3 in 1 oil from the local hardware store works just great for bushings and bearings.

I have Selleys RP7. I'll use that for the bushings and bearings.