Painting
#1
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Hey, Looks like I'm getting an all metal Mato Tiger, Bare metal. Any suggestions as to painting. Not schemes but technique. I'd like to go with airbrush but after pricing, damn.
#2

You can get may different brands and types of air brushes that are ver affordable. Even Harbor Freight has a cheap little set that is only a few dollars that could get you started. Airbrushing is always going to be the best bet for modelling painting so if you plan on any future projects you really want to look into it some more. Paasche and Iwata make very good brushes and have very affordable sets. You can even by canned air for them bet I recommend buying a dedicated compressor.
As far as your tank , you really want to use a good self etching primer first. any good automotive primer will do and you can use the rattle can for that. if your going to use one solid color the spray bomb will work for that too. But, if your going for a camo or pattern type then an airbrush is almost required. Look up Chicago Airbrush. That site has everything you could possibly need and very good prices also.
As far as your tank , you really want to use a good self etching primer first. any good automotive primer will do and you can use the rattle can for that. if your going to use one solid color the spray bomb will work for that too. But, if your going for a camo or pattern type then an airbrush is almost required. Look up Chicago Airbrush. That site has everything you could possibly need and very good prices also.
#6
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Rattle can the Primer on. Typically they go on well. I have had very good look with the rattle can Krylon camo colors for a base coat. Further detailing I use washes and chalks. This was done with a rattle can, and then brush applied washes and dry brushing.
#9

Just last night I bought a dual stage airbrush that comes with everything you need except a compressor for 18.00 US. You can get a small compressor for 30.00 so they are not expensive at all. When you are paying up to 10.00 a can for spray paint it becomes a no brainer to me.
#10
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From: Cal
Just last night I bought a dual stage airbrush that comes with everything you need except a compressor for 18.00 US. You can get a small compressor for 30.00 so they are not expensive at all. When you are paying up to 10.00 a can for spray paint it becomes a no brainer to me.
I think someone was mentioning "money pit" the other day
Last edited by Big N00b; 12-03-2015 at 11:02 AM.
#11

Preparation is everything for a good finish,
First wipe the area that is to be painted with "Acrylic Thinners" This is to get rid of any grease, finger marks etc.
Then paint the metal surface with a "Metal Primer" this gives the paint a "Key" although some people say metal primer is unnecessary, me I would never paint metal without first applying a metal primer,
Next If you have access to an Airbrush then use it, Rattle cans and the hairy stick are very much second rate alternatives,
If you have to use a rattle can make sure the can is not cold and do shake it robustly for at least a minute before using it, and ensure the area you are using to paint in is free of dust and is well ventilated and has a non flammable heater to aid the drying process.
shaun.
First wipe the area that is to be painted with "Acrylic Thinners" This is to get rid of any grease, finger marks etc.
Then paint the metal surface with a "Metal Primer" this gives the paint a "Key" although some people say metal primer is unnecessary, me I would never paint metal without first applying a metal primer,
Next If you have access to an Airbrush then use it, Rattle cans and the hairy stick are very much second rate alternatives,
If you have to use a rattle can make sure the can is not cold and do shake it robustly for at least a minute before using it, and ensure the area you are using to paint in is free of dust and is well ventilated and has a non flammable heater to aid the drying process.
shaun.
#12
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I agree with both Dan & Greg, Both rattle cans & airbrushing have their place. But never use a large paintbrush to camo a tank. The brush marks will be an eyesore and repainting repairs will require sanding. Paint brushes for large tank camo should be limited to applying winter white wash or some mud effects/weathering. I have two Paasche airbrushes (dual action) and they are superb. I've used many compressors (w/ tank) to but the current one is from Harbor Freight ($25 on clearance). Campbell Hausfeld has good deals too. Use a good pressure regulator and watch for water accumulation in the air tank.
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A question for you patchcon,does the tank you are ,getting have a textured surface ie; does it look like rolled steel or does it have a regular molded flat surface similar to say a flat sheet of plastic?i just wanted to if you were going to add a textured finish to replicate that of a real tiger like so many here are overly critical about
Last edited by Darkearth74; 12-05-2015 at 02:18 PM.
#17

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#18
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A question for you patchcon,does the tank you are ,getting have a textured surface ie; does it look like rolled steel or does it have a regular molded flat surface similar to say a flat sheet of plastic?i just wanted to if you were going to add a textured finish to replicate that of a real tiger like so many here are overly critical about
#20

How early is early?
If you mean one of the first 50 Tunisian Tigers then you have a lot of modifications to do that you won't find in any dealer upgrades,
Rear Fenders, Front fenders, Feifal Air Cleaners (two separate drums per unit rather than the later intergrated units,) Exhaust shrouds, Front Turret Mantlet, Two Pistol Ports on the Turret, Turret box different from the later pattern, similar to the PZ3/4, Tow ropes either reversed with the eyelets over the engine grills or if kept in the regular position then the eyelet on the rope end nearest the side fender should be ahead of the inside eyelet,
BUT, and here is the good news, NO ZIMMERITT!!! indeed Zimmeritt was first fitted in July 1943 and discontinued when someone in an office in Berlin realised that Anti-Magnetic mine coating (zimmeritt) was pointless, as the only army in the European Theatre using Magnetic Mines was the GERMAN ARMY!!! DOHHH.
Shaun.
If you mean one of the first 50 Tunisian Tigers then you have a lot of modifications to do that you won't find in any dealer upgrades,
Rear Fenders, Front fenders, Feifal Air Cleaners (two separate drums per unit rather than the later intergrated units,) Exhaust shrouds, Front Turret Mantlet, Two Pistol Ports on the Turret, Turret box different from the later pattern, similar to the PZ3/4, Tow ropes either reversed with the eyelets over the engine grills or if kept in the regular position then the eyelet on the rope end nearest the side fender should be ahead of the inside eyelet,
BUT, and here is the good news, NO ZIMMERITT!!! indeed Zimmeritt was first fitted in July 1943 and discontinued when someone in an office in Berlin realised that Anti-Magnetic mine coating (zimmeritt) was pointless, as the only army in the European Theatre using Magnetic Mines was the GERMAN ARMY!!! DOHHH.
Shaun.
Last edited by jarndice; 12-06-2015 at 07:55 AM.
#22

That does not of course mean there were no Zimmeritt free Tiger 1s in that area but I cannot find any record,
Anyone else know better?
There is some good news though, the change from the early Tiger 1 to the later was happening around this time so you are free to use the later Tire free wheels and the later Cupola and the Tiger 1 was often to be found at this time with a mixture of early and late fixtures and fittings.
The Tiger 1 was one of the most modified of all Tanks in the German armed forces between 1943 -1945,
The location of headlights alone would fill two pages of A4 and the many changes in the design of the exhaust and air filter system seem to be endless,
The track cable (thin cable along the side of the hull) had a number of different mountings and it is possible to identify a date of issue in service just from knowing the pattern of the track cable fit!!
What I am saying is that all the experts will point out the "MISTAKES" in a Tiger 1 build and all that means is that the EXPERT is probably WRONG!!!
It is your Tank please never forget that you are doing this for FUN!!
shaun..
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From: Cal
Hi, There were surprisingly few Tiger 1s in action in Normandy in June thru August 1944, most were either in Russia or Italy and all the photographs I have seen of Tiger 1s in Normandy show them coated with Zimmeritt,
That does not of course mean there were no Zimmeritt free Tiger 1s in that area but I cannot find any record,
Anyone else know better? ....
That does not of course mean there were no Zimmeritt free Tiger 1s in that area but I cannot find any record,
Anyone else know better? ....
You can find a lot of interesting artifacts if you google the right questions (Schwere SS Panzer Abteilung 101 for example, will find you pics and stories not easily found in a quick look).
Patchcon, jarndice is right. Make the model you own and how you would like it to have looked...you're driving it
#25

NOOb Hi, When I talk to people about German Armour of the last unpleasantness, The comparison between the Production figures of the T34 (50,000+) and the Sherman M4 (55,000) with the Tiger 1 produces at the least surprise usually disbelief, the accepted figure being less than 1400, actually 1347 is rated as the total of the manufacture of Tiger 1s. It shows how important this vehicle was given how few there were.
Abteilung 101 was in existence for just a year and a half and had a total of just 45 Tiger 1s and a total of 60 Tiger 2s, that small number accounted for at least 500 destroyed enemy Tanks.
shaun
Abteilung 101 was in existence for just a year and a half and had a total of just 45 Tiger 1s and a total of 60 Tiger 2s, that small number accounted for at least 500 destroyed enemy Tanks.
shaun
Last edited by jarndice; 12-09-2015 at 08:30 AM.


