This would be inside a muzzle brake for Tamiya Pershing and Tiger 1.

The IR LED would be inserted into a tube 3/4 inch long, extra wire soldered to cable length, then mounted at very end of muzzle, with perhaps 1/4 inch of tube sticking out if it could not be made flush.

Then probably liquid tape applied to wires out back of LED. The end of flash unit would follow right behind the LED, hopefully with at least part of the light escaping out the rear openings in the muzzle- and so be seen on firing.

I know the flash gives off quite a kick of high voltage- would there be any issue like this or another problem mounting like this?

Perhaps a minimum separation distance would be...?

Or would the flash overcome the IR beam and mask it from triggering an apple response?

You aren't going to want the IR emitter flush with the end of the tube, even if you'e only battling at home (clubs don't allow it), since the beam spread will be so wide, you'll be registering hits on everything, no matter how you aim.

The Tammy Tiger I has a piece that lets you set the IR emitter in the coax MG. It's both hidden and accurate regarding aim.

Clubs and settings with multiple tanks tend to not like emitters in barrels because it can give you an unfair advantage. I'm not saying I agree or disagree with it, I see both sides of the coin, but if it's just you fighting amongst friends in the backyard, do it and enjoy yourself, but I'd probably opt for not using the flash at all them, no reason since you won't see much with it behind the emitter and you won't be violating anyone's rules by not having it.

If your main reason for this is to make the tank as realistic (no dopey clip on the barrel), you can put the emitter in the mantlet MGs of most tanks without issue. I have mine set that way in the Tiger, JS-2, Panther and T-34. I had it in the Pz IV coax, but on that tank it's too close to the extended gun housing, so there's a blind spot. I move it over to the gun sight and set a tube that would move with elevation.

The flash is very high voltage and in terms of the IR emitter, it will be much brighter, possibly interferring with the signal for that split second, but the emitter fires the code for a short time, much longer than the flash, so the only problem is the physical limits of the barrel ID.

Rooms going to be tight but should be possible, I have my IR emitters in the barrel of my is-2 and su-152 and if anything it makes it more of a challenge to aim, which I quite like. I can sort of see why clubs have issue with it but if you don't abuse it by sticking you barrel out of windows and trees then you shouldn't have much problem.

I think Yellowshaker did something like this a few years ago, but I can't remember which one was behind the other. I believe the flash was behind the IR and the IR had a clear bulb in it.

Herman

I did the flash behind the IR emitter that was in a brass tube in the muzzle break of my Elefant. The flash will not interfere with the IR signal but you will not have much visible flash looking straight on the barrel, only from the sides. You can kind of make out the tube in the first pic and in the second pic you can see the very tip of the tamiya flash unit towards the back of the muzzle break.

I have done this set-up LED emitter and Flash in the same gun muzzle brake with no problems.

As long as the wires are well insulated no issue.

The only interference with the IR would be other IR sources particularly sunlight which diminishes range.

Reference for IR LED mount:
http://www.sead.us/technology.html

I have been playing around with this idea also, with my Pershing and Tigers. I had a thought of putting the IR bulb in a tube (6mm for rules), and the flash behind the IR, but use several clear fiber optic tubes, like the ones I use on my Pershing headlight and tailights, Put those around the tube the IR bulb is in. Just and Idea, I havent done the measuring of it yet. It may not work at all. I have messed around a little bit with using the fiber optic in the barrels already. I have about 50 feet of clear fiber optic tube, I thing you can get different colors also. Just an idea. I never even thought about fiber optic until I had to get new head lights for my Tamiya Pershing and they sent the new fiber optic kit as a replacement.

I did this in my stug. I have working flash and IR in the muzzle. I used a 3 mm IR LED in a brass tube in front of a 6 mm flash LED and used fiber optics to carry the flash around the IR LED. It all fits nicely inside the tank gun tube. It works great. Bright flash and good IR range.

On my hybrid StuG III I have both flash and IR buried in the main gun. The are both recessed the same amount : .750" before the muzzle brake. You can't see a lot of flash from the side although the barrel being aluminum reflects some of it sideways( if you are the StuG's target you definitely see it!). It's not a stealthy machine as from anywhere in front you can see the flash quite well, to a much lesser extent from the side- sort of reduces the toy-ish_ness of it all.

I've tested the model against IR targets and I get impressive hits even in daylight; I placed an IR target at the other end of my side yard- a good 40+ feet away and got reliable hits. I need to do further tests as I work through my models but I see no problem so far with this implementation..

The card is an IBU2 base.

Jerry

I have the flash and emitter in the muzzle break 9f my Tamiya Pershing. You would need to use a barrel type like this as you need the space inside the break to have enough room for both. It has been done.

"9f"? Where would I get such a break?

Thank you for all the answers, most helpful. What gauge of wire do I need for IR LED to allow sliding besides flash wire in barrel? Does the very end of flash wire light up or does it do so further back?

The very end of the Tamiya flash is actually a piece 0f heat shrink tubing that can be trimmed slightly to make it a little shorter.I believe I used the flash from a King tiger in my Pershing as that had the longest barrel at the time. The standard Pershing flash will work I think but for other reasons that I cant remember I needed one with longer leads to be able to use the emitter in the barrel also. I keep a spare emitter lead and clip handy incase a team or club event does not allow the emitter in the barrel. The 9f was a typo in my previous post and i keep spelling Brake wrong. LOL
CRS disease.

My Shermans with 105mm Howitzer Barrels have emitters and flash in the same gun tube.

Wouldn't this be an extreme pain in the arse if the IR burned out?

Not really I've had to replace the IR bulb in my is-2 and it only took 10 minutes

How would that work, since there is no muzzle brake, the barrel just ends abruptly? Blocked all around except on end...

Edit: Hmmm...what is the difference between this flash unit for Sherman and KVs:

http://www.artistichobbies.com/prodd...rod=TAM7255033

and this one for other tanks:

http://www.artistichobbies.com/prodd...rod=TAM7255018

The first is short. The other has a longer wire to extend down the longer barrels.