Putty and/or filler
#1
Thread Starter

What are you using to resurface the tanks after you modify them? I have never done a modification that I had to fill in an area. I am going to attempt to remove the 2 fixed hatches and replace them with hatches that open on the front of my HL Tiger I Early. I have the plastic hatches. I assume I will need some sort of putty or filler? Any ideas? Also what is the best way to cut the tank plastics? Hot knife? This will be my first attempt, if it goes well maybe I will attempt more mods. Thanks,
#2
A hobby saw like X-acto or Zona for cutting away raised pieces, a scriber and X-acto #11 for everything else.
In terms of filling, I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt for everything from zim to filling holes, to affixing parts to sculpting figures. The stuff is amazing, nearly non-toxic and can be tapped and drilled after it sets.
In terms of filling, I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt for everything from zim to filling holes, to affixing parts to sculpting figures. The stuff is amazing, nearly non-toxic and can be tapped and drilled after it sets.
#3
I just discovered Milliput. It's a two part stick type putty that you cut off what you need from each stick, mix together/knead. It dries hard in 24 hrs and can be drilled and sanded.
#4
I use Milliput White, Ausf turned me onto Aves as well. I also stopped using Squadron green in favor of auto body red putty/filler as it dries faster and sands smoother for quick seem fills where there should be no seem.
#5

Hi, I have done this on a couple of Tiger 1s,
First thing to do is cover the area around the hatches with DUCT/DUCK TAPE NOT masking tape, This will protect the surface so you will not need filler when you have finished,
To remove the hatches I use a STEP DRILL very carefully, they come in different sizes ,
DO not push the step drill too hard otherwise you will melt the plastic and do not go in to the plastic too far you need to leave a lip for the replacement hatch to rest on, which means finishing with a small file and an abrasive board.
I would avoid the MATO metal hatches and instead use the TAIGEN hatches they are much easier to fit and look a lot better and have less parts ,
If you have not done so I would recommend you take off the Turret before you start on the hatches.
Shaun.
First thing to do is cover the area around the hatches with DUCT/DUCK TAPE NOT masking tape, This will protect the surface so you will not need filler when you have finished,
To remove the hatches I use a STEP DRILL very carefully, they come in different sizes ,
DO not push the step drill too hard otherwise you will melt the plastic and do not go in to the plastic too far you need to leave a lip for the replacement hatch to rest on, which means finishing with a small file and an abrasive board.
I would avoid the MATO metal hatches and instead use the TAIGEN hatches they are much easier to fit and look a lot better and have less parts ,
If you have not done so I would recommend you take off the Turret before you start on the hatches.
Shaun.
#6
If you need to fill in some small holes, just cut a piece of a plastic sprue. Heat it, get the diameter you need by stretching it. Then put some cement on it and insert it into the hole. Cut all protruding ends. If necessary, sand it.
#7
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From: Evans, GA
I use nylon sewing thread to remove hatches. First drill a small hole to pass the thread through. I hold the tank deck between my legs. Pass the thread through the hole . On the free end, wrap it around a screwdriver and tape it. That will allow you to hold it( leave the other end attached to the spool). Then just slide the thread along in a sawing motion. Go slow so you don't melt the plastic or the thread. Every so often roll the screwdriver so your using fresh thread to make your cuts. You'll be surprised at the control and smoothness of the cut. It cuts so well that I throw the molded hatch in my parts bin, or like on my KT, use the same cut hatch to make it open.
Hope this helps.
Jim
Hope this helps.
Jim
#8
Thread Starter

I use nylon sewing thread to remove hatches. First drill a small hole to pass the thread through. I hold the tank deck between my legs. Pass the thread through the hole . On the free end, wrap it around a screwdriver and tape it. That will allow you to hold it( leave the other end attached to the spool). Then just slide the thread along in a sawing motion. Go slow so you don't melt the plastic or the thread. Every so often roll the screwdriver so your using fresh thread to make your cuts. You'll be surprised at the control and smoothness of the cut. It cuts so well that I throw the molded hatch in my parts bin, or like on my KT, use the same cut hatch to make it open.
Hope this helps.
Jim
Hope this helps.
Jim
#9
Thread Starter

Great info, THANKS EVERYONE! I will give a couple of the ideas and try and report back with how it turned out. I wont have time until the weekend to start on it. Thanks again,
#10
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From: Evans, GA
Again hope this helps.
Jim
#11
Thread Starter

Got it! Thanks for the clarification. I'll try it!
#12

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From: sayreville, NJ
The nylon thread really works good. Has to be nylon though. My wife cut out the hatches on a Sherman in about 15 minutes perfectly! And yes, if you get it right, you can reuse the hatches you just cut.
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From: winchester, va. VA
Most modern braided polymer fishing lines work very well also, except the "ez braid" version of spiderwire, it frays very quickly.
Last edited by moparbarn; 03-10-2016 at 04:12 PM.
#16
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