I have 4 IBU2 Pros: 1 in a Stug, 1 in a Sherman. Both work great. I have 2 others that I'm trying to install in a Tiger 1. The first board, when first connected, moved the turret functions but would not drive correctly. After attempting many forms of calibration, I've lost all functions other than being yelled at in German as the turret moves to the right. I tried the second board: All turret functions work, and after a couple calibration attempts, the tracks will move front to back but will not turn. I've tried different receivers (flysky), connected servos to the receiver to insure the channels work. and tried various methods to calibrate the board. I'm at a loss, and could use this groups expertise to help me out. My calibration process is as follows: Turn off the tank and transmitter; turn on tank and transmitter, flip switch 8 to "on" move both sticks in a counter clockwise rotation, then turn the dials (6 channels). Flip switch 8 to "off", turn off the tank and transmitter. Turning it back on yields the same problem. So, I've tried a variety of combos and orders of turning stuff off and on while programming but none make it better. I've tried changing the servo wires, different recievers, transmitters, etc.) Currently, I reinstalled the stock Taigen gear just to make sure it all works....it does. Any other suggestions? I don't know why my first 2 worked flawlessly but these are giving me so much grief, thanks for your help!

Where did you get them? There was a guy on the west coast that used to sell the IBU and he got a bad batch and quite a few of them were defective right out of the box.

RCTankElectronics. Ian has been the most helpful person I've met through this tanking adventure/misadventure. (I can't stress that enough...great guy!) I bought 1 IBU2 Pro to test. When it worked, I bought another. When it worked I bought 2 more. They are a bit troublesome to calibrate, but once they get going, I like them very much. So, I can only imagine that it's user error at this point. (I did read about the bad ones before I slowly began this experiment). Perhaps someone has some method that I haven't tried or some advice to make these things go. Here's to hoping! Thanks everyone.

The only thing I can think of that might help with calibration is that you should rotate the sticks in both directions, not just counterclockwise. First go all the way around at least twice and then reverse direction and go all the way around twice more.

At least if they turn out to be bad and you have to send them back you know that Ian will take care of you. I agree with you when you say that he's a great guy.

This finally worked. The root of the problem, (I think) was some bad servo wires. After replacing them one at a time and calibrating over and over again, I finally got one of the boards to work. Thanks guys.

New question: Where does one get IR LEDs? I'd like to build my own, but don't mind buying ready made (Clark, Tamiya, etc.)

I couldn't agree more with the comments about Ian.. He is excellent to work with, and a great person..

I have done a good deal of business with him in the past, and would not hesitate to do business with him again..

I believe Tamiya uses 940 nanometer IR LEDs you can buy 50 of them for less than $7 on Amazon or Ebay. For battling you just need to make sure it is mounted in a tube that has at least 9mm from the front of the tube to the front end of the LED, this prevents scattering the IR beam and causing friendly fire amongst your teamates.
Steve