DKLM/OKMO 1/16 Churchill MK.VII is now for order
11-05-2018, 09:41 AM
#26
The casting of the plastic (not sure what type) is strong but brittle compared to ABS. Actually cracked a piece off the upper hull latch mechanism removing the upper hull.
The material also strips out with more than moderate screw tension, so be careful.
Even the instructions warn against heavy driving as the material is not as resilient as ABS.
All-in-all I am very satisfied with it as the castings are very well done, precise fit and no flash, bubbles or other casting remnants.
The material also strips out with more than moderate screw tension, so be careful.
Even the instructions warn against heavy driving as the material is not as resilient as ABS.
All-in-all I am very satisfied with it as the castings are very well done, precise fit and no flash, bubbles or other casting remnants.
If you are using the DKLM slow gearbox, there is very little chance to damage it from driving, unless it jumps off crashes on a down-slope.
The Churchill as with the prototype is well designed - very strong construction for a tank of its size.
11-05-2018, 11:53 AM
#27
We will see as I will test once built.
I don't run my tanks rough, but the metal track strain with the hi-torque (slow) gearbox will be the real test with something caught in the track.
I agree it seems quite strong and looking forward to testing it. It is a beautiful model really and would put it up there with Tamiya on quality and detail.
I don't run my tanks rough, but the metal track strain with the hi-torque (slow) gearbox will be the real test with something caught in the track.
I agree it seems quite strong and looking forward to testing it. It is a beautiful model really and would put it up there with Tamiya on quality and detail.
11-05-2018, 12:45 PM
#28
How are you supposed to glue parts with JB weld. That stuff is a metal epoxy putty that i wouls not think could be used to glue small parts together. How would you get it inbetween two parts and keep them tight?
11-06-2018, 02:40 AM
#29
I have been using it for most permanent joints since Carson recommended it to me.
Since the Leopard 2A4 has different hull details, I have cut off the threaded tab from my metal Leo2 hull and hold it together with JB weld instead. It has held on for months of off-road bashing without fail.
I used normal epoxy before and it has broken off twice.
There are modelers who built entire tank out of CNC aluminum sheets, milled joints held together solely by epoxy.
