I have purchased a 25+ year old tamiya sherman I believe it is 56005. It has clutched drives ( steer by declutching one side or the other. I replaced all the bogies and other suspension parts with new and test drove it. marked improvement in operation but within a few moments one of the track link pins came off( original metal ) I cannot find a manual for the old tank( not even sure if the kit was rc to start or was converted) and as such do not know how to prevent the tiny little track pins frompulling out. Is anyone familiar with the old sherman metal tracks? are the pin holders crimped? I have thought about a dabba glue on the end of each link pin. but really I would like to do it right . any tips?

one question:
are the track and sprockets all stock or you change one of them?

solution1: touch some super glue on each end of the pins.
solution2: squeeze the pin holder little flat with plier, then pounch the pin in with force.

I do have the manu for it. write to me privately if you are interested buying.
thanks,tom

track(metal) and sprockets are original. i bought 3 c sprue (bogies and return rollers), suspension arms, idlers, road rubber, bearings and bushings. perfect install, idlers were a bit longer than original but were within the adjustment range but everything fit as I expected. thanks for the confirmation about the pins. don't think i'll change it any more than that for now. to much moolah to go full option. it's cheaper to buy a new one than the parts.

kth:

If its clutched, its an RT1601 aka 56001, the first Tamiya RC tank. It shares most of the same parts with the 56005, except it got a revised set of gearboxes (The first DMD units, now called type One DMD gearboxes) Would love to see pics of the beastie.

You mean the small figure eight clips that slip onto the ends of the track pins? That was a problem with all the old tracks... the end-clips were cast, and once stretched, often popped off and were lost. You can use the track set off a 56014 if you can find one... Barring that, its metal ones from Kenny Kong, or cutting down the Pershing set (would leave you spare links for 'splash armor' on the hull & turret)

And that 'dab of glue' idea was what we used back then... small dot of CA inside the figure eight clip holes before you place it back on the two pins and quickly tap it into place. I'd advise against squeezing the clips... they are castings, and a bit too much pressure and they shatter.

As for a manual, I've got digital scans of the RT manuals (both of them) and can send the scans free by email if you like.

You have any other questions, just ask.

WhiteWolf

only free by email? it would be nice if yo print it out and send him for free. I only want a digital scan, can you send me, please?[sm=punching.gif] but let you know first, send it only you have the copyright. do not send if you download from somewhere. I do not want you get into copyright trouble.

Hey stop with the Poo Poo platter Tom......[:@] act your age not shoe size

I always forget my age when I play my rc tanks. I always forget my age when I talk to my fellow tankers.

Thank -you all again for the info. it is cool to know it is first tamiya rc tank. I am more inclined to modify it as little as possible. Those kenny kong tracks are something i see mentioned on forums but cant find to buy any link to a retailer? also are there any other two motor tank speed control. I saw something referred to as caterpiller t-2000 but searchs just bring up the real thing ( bulldozers etc)

I would not recommend you modify it either. it is not worth it. I would rather spent money on a full option one.
but I do like the all metal gearbox, I modified the gearbox so I can install it in my full option sherman, but two 260 motors are kind of week, so it is bit slow. but i like it. will show you how I modified it after I finished my sherman.

Interesting... i have never seen afull option working other than on video- i think it is fully proportional clutch drive is not I think that the clutched drive is less appealing than is the 2 separate drive units. it may be all metal but it is lurchy and will not pivot on spot

the real tank has clutch and brake. but old tamiya ones only had clutch. that means, even one side is disengaged, but it is dragged along by the moving track because there is no brake. I tried brakes on disengaged side, it worked fine. tank will drive just like real tank.

your clutch gearbox has two motors too, you either can set it up with one big gear in the center or two smaller gear on each side. that way, you can use the old sherman gearbox to be controled by DMD unit. the only modification is to cut the chuncky clutch head, tricky there though.

you will have to tell me more about clutch removal because I just got unlazy and found the 2 motor tank controller on ebay and bought it. have you seen reference to changing the large drive gear to separate gears? i thought it would be possible but there was no reason to go be contemplation. now I must! came to 77 $ cad 62.50 U.S. any help !?!

You dont have to really have the remove the cluch set up.But it will give you more room to work with.BUT you do have to get the Opt.gears Thay are two smaller gears instead of the one large gear.I will take a pix and post for you.

Heres a pix.But when you swap out the gears it will be even slower[X(]Painfully slower LOL

nice pix!

kth:

Manual is on the way. Don't worry about copyright garbage, its long out of regs.

RRR can talk you thru the swap-over if you have any problems, but remember to put all the removed parts safely aside in case you want to restore her to 'classic' condition at a later date. Too many RT's show up missing the dual-drive gears... (most usually never bothered pulling the single gear to run it dual-drive)

If you can find a 53400 with its Sherman install parts, you'll only have to rig a servo inside the turret to elevate the gun. Beware of used 53400's, as most are missing the long brass studs that go in the turret, and the base-plate to mount it properly in the chassis. I have the plate, but I've misplaced my studs... and I wanted to put a 53400 in.

You have other problems, just ask.

WhiteWolf

here is the trick of getting parts for free in general:
when you want something for free from fellow tankers, do not ask directly. it does not sound right. so what you do is, give some free info and help to the bigginers, then metion what your current project is and what you need or missing. Then bigginer will jump right in to offer you free parts.
this way works! try it yourself or avoid this situation yourself.

Getting free parts in general:
Do not ask directly, it does not sound right. Instead, give some free help or info. Then mention what your current project and what you need and want. Some people will jump right in, especially the beginners. Try it yourself.

I thought the 53400 was clunky and liked the mechanism(compact) in the 56014(#4203020) and tamiya still lists it. it might mean buying a new turret but...

thanks for your concern Tomzag but fear not- I will defend my self. the manual scans are for me a curiosity and have no intrinsic value - I am a tradesperson and a technician by occupation and avocation-- plus I like cool techno toys. so just have fun! show me a toy/tool/gadget I can't take operate/assemble with out the instructions and I'll do......something!

kth:

The problem is, you'll need both a new hull and a new turret, plus assorted other parts/sprues. The traverse gearbox for the 56014 mounts on studs cast as part of the 56014 hull... its mostly the same as the RT1601 & 56005 hull, but differs in the holes for lights, traverse mount and roller-wheel posts, and the points where the body clips hold it to the chassis.

It may be big and clunky... but it wasn't really noisy if lubricated well, and the clutch was MUCH better than the new one (which is useless)

If you're going to go that far, you may as well have bought a 56014... cause after the Hi-IQ T-2000, and all these sprues, thats about the price you'll be looking at. I speak from experience, as I paid to upgrade a Tiger 1 static kit... and I now regret doing that instead of buying a MF kit and stripping it.

You want the sprue references for buying, let me know, I'll make an itemised list, and I recommend Karen @ AAF Tank Museum (you want her mail addy, just ask, I can get a blind link to work here) She got me my Pershing sprues at about 75% of TamiyaUSA MSRP.

WhiteWolf

i hadn't really looked at it that closely and I had thought that the castings would be similar enough to fudge it. but all things considered I have probably been relatively lucky to encounter no compatibility problems already. I agree with you about just buying a new kit tho- I can't afford to make this into a full function. It's that thing about dipping your toes in the water a bit at a time when you should just jump in. If you happen to know where I can get a pair (or 1) of those optional gears RRR( thank-you very kindly RRR) pictured (i immediately recognized the part - there is one in my spares) that would be interesting. Now I think I have to decide which one(or 2) to buy as a full function kit

It was just luck I found mine got one in a trade then months later I got the other one..So all I can tell you about that is go the every Tank site you can find and put up an add.Plus No problem just trying to help.You know the "stop and spin" like the DMD tanks is cool and all thats about it.If I had someone to cut me some good gears(Brass,aluminum or steel)I would go back to the single gear drive.