Another Tamiya Leopard
#76
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From: Brooklyn,
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ORIGINAL: strv122
There was some discussion about relocating the battery from turret to the hull and using two batteries in one tank, I know there is a Tamiya style connector that connects two batteries to one DMD, its y shaped with a Tamiya connector at either end, I used to have a link to that item but deleted it, as far as relocating the single battery from turret to hull http://www.rcpanzer.de/apboard/thread.php?id=12434 I believe thats a custom battery, it appears its 5 cells bottom with 1 cell on top.
Will
There was some discussion about relocating the battery from turret to the hull and using two batteries in one tank, I know there is a Tamiya style connector that connects two batteries to one DMD, its y shaped with a Tamiya connector at either end, I used to have a link to that item but deleted it, as far as relocating the single battery from turret to hull http://www.rcpanzer.de/apboard/thread.php?id=12434 I believe thats a custom battery, it appears its 5 cells bottom with 1 cell on top.
Will
#79
Amuro,
Yes it probably was getting carried away with the tightening of the screws that cracked them. Wonder if the lack of lock tight on them actually tightened them even more during operation? It ran over a good sized root and had been running over the gravel in the driveway. I know that gave the suspension a work out, because it was constantly bouncing. Try to stay away from those huge 'speed bumps', now.
Will,
The mirrors are the original parts, cut up and put on a piece of thick music wire to make them operational. I explained it a few pages back, as well as how I laced the basket sides to the plastic frame. They seem to be pretty stought so far. If the baskets break off, well there seems to be a prototype for everything. This video shows a Leo running around without a basket on the TC's side!
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZBN17NIzvQ&NR]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZBN17NIzvQ&NR[/link]
Really like the sheets or whatever they used as 'camo' for the turret and hull. Most of the ones I've seen have that cut up sheet hanging off in front to break up the hull gap between the tracks.
Shagnifico,
WOW, I would never have thought of using a garbage bag and cutting the slits in it to simulate the netting material! I'll try the netting material I found at wally world first, as it has the hex pattern for the base netting. If it turns out that it's too stiff after putting on the garbage bag 'foliage', then I'll settle for the material you suggested. Then I can attach the strips after I make them a little thinner. Now to find some green trash bags (Hefty, of course!)
Might even try tying the 'foliage' to the netting with thread, too. The real stuff is attached to the net with metal clips(like you mentioned), but I'm not sure how the thread 'clips will treat the thin garbage bag. Even if it tears it up, it might look good and worn. Thanks for the tips!!!
Yes it probably was getting carried away with the tightening of the screws that cracked them. Wonder if the lack of lock tight on them actually tightened them even more during operation? It ran over a good sized root and had been running over the gravel in the driveway. I know that gave the suspension a work out, because it was constantly bouncing. Try to stay away from those huge 'speed bumps', now.
Will,
The mirrors are the original parts, cut up and put on a piece of thick music wire to make them operational. I explained it a few pages back, as well as how I laced the basket sides to the plastic frame. They seem to be pretty stought so far. If the baskets break off, well there seems to be a prototype for everything. This video shows a Leo running around without a basket on the TC's side!

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZBN17NIzvQ&NR]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZBN17NIzvQ&NR[/link]
Really like the sheets or whatever they used as 'camo' for the turret and hull. Most of the ones I've seen have that cut up sheet hanging off in front to break up the hull gap between the tracks.
Shagnifico,
WOW, I would never have thought of using a garbage bag and cutting the slits in it to simulate the netting material! I'll try the netting material I found at wally world first, as it has the hex pattern for the base netting. If it turns out that it's too stiff after putting on the garbage bag 'foliage', then I'll settle for the material you suggested. Then I can attach the strips after I make them a little thinner. Now to find some green trash bags (Hefty, of course!)
Might even try tying the 'foliage' to the netting with thread, too. The real stuff is attached to the net with metal clips(like you mentioned), but I'm not sure how the thread 'clips will treat the thin garbage bag. Even if it tears it up, it might look good and worn. Thanks for the tips!!!
#80
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From: San Francisco,
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Hi Cap:
I was referrering to my experience and the parts I would recommend replacing, http://www.pbase.com/calvinwill/image/72348744 the stock mirrors are both fragil and non-functional, I for myself would buy the aftermarket mirrors for my scratch building skills are not up to your or Amuros expectional level[8D] ditto the baskets, those metal baskets are far more durable, are one solid piece, and are much stronger than the stock parts. If I were to build a third Leopard, for me I would have to order those parts.
Two questions for you Cap and its about the rear skirts, 1. how did you flip up the skirt and 2, is it functional?
Will
I was referrering to my experience and the parts I would recommend replacing, http://www.pbase.com/calvinwill/image/72348744 the stock mirrors are both fragil and non-functional, I for myself would buy the aftermarket mirrors for my scratch building skills are not up to your or Amuros expectional level[8D] ditto the baskets, those metal baskets are far more durable, are one solid piece, and are much stronger than the stock parts. If I were to build a third Leopard, for me I would have to order those parts.
Two questions for you Cap and its about the rear skirts, 1. how did you flip up the skirt and 2, is it functional?
Will
#81
Will,
Yes, some parts wouldn't be bad to replace, such as you mentioned. The mirrors were only made functional on mine because I couldn't see putting the mirror sticker on and then not be able to see it(as you know, they are to be glued on facing down). Also, the baskets didn't seem like they would be very sturdy with the etched parts just glued to the plastic frame. The aftermarket parts would have done the trick, but I came up with the mods I did and it worked OK.
As for the rear skirts, all I did was cut them free from the rear skirt parts and then swap the sides to put them in the 'flipped up' position. They aren't functional like the real ones, but are only held on by the last hull screw. Had to remove a very small portion of the skirt itself in the area of the hinge to make it work, but it isn't that noticeable with them in the down position.
Eventually, I want to make the older style skirts and do the same method with the last skirts. I still haven't figured out why some tanks have the old style and some have the new. Maybe it's just a matter of using the original 2A4 parts or individual unit preference. Not sure. Almost all of the field shots I have show the older style skirt, tho'.
BTW, have you finished the second Leo? Going to turn it into an STRV122?
Yes, some parts wouldn't be bad to replace, such as you mentioned. The mirrors were only made functional on mine because I couldn't see putting the mirror sticker on and then not be able to see it(as you know, they are to be glued on facing down). Also, the baskets didn't seem like they would be very sturdy with the etched parts just glued to the plastic frame. The aftermarket parts would have done the trick, but I came up with the mods I did and it worked OK.
As for the rear skirts, all I did was cut them free from the rear skirt parts and then swap the sides to put them in the 'flipped up' position. They aren't functional like the real ones, but are only held on by the last hull screw. Had to remove a very small portion of the skirt itself in the area of the hinge to make it work, but it isn't that noticeable with them in the down position.
Eventually, I want to make the older style skirts and do the same method with the last skirts. I still haven't figured out why some tanks have the old style and some have the new. Maybe it's just a matter of using the original 2A4 parts or individual unit preference. Not sure. Almost all of the field shots I have show the older style skirt, tho'.
BTW, have you finished the second Leo? Going to turn it into an STRV122?
#82
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From: San Francisco,
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I finished the 2nd Leo back in April or May of 06, its in pristine condition, looks brand new straight out of the Krauss Maffei factory, its an interesting contrast when I have both Leos side by side, one clean and the other covered in dirt, real dirt, not painted. Its built mostly using Stabilit cement on both lower hull (both tanks) and on 2nd Leo, upper hull and turret, its actually stronger than my first Leo, the Stabilit is the strongest cement I've ever used, the upper track guides are still in place on both tanks and especially on Leo number one, the one I run the hardest, rocks, branches, mud, nothing knocks those track guides and shock absorbers off, indeed no part falls off thats been cemented correctly with Stabilit.
If I were to build a third Leopard, I would want this http://greekmilitary.net/greekmbtanks.htm a PSO would also be interesting but very difficult to build, I would have to get somebody like Tomzag to build it for me.
Will
If I were to build a third Leopard, I would want this http://greekmilitary.net/greekmbtanks.htm a PSO would also be interesting but very difficult to build, I would have to get somebody like Tomzag to build it for me.
Will
#85
After watching the Oberlausitz video, I'm really liking that Leo. I already have the sheets cut out for the hull and turret, as well as an assembled box that is on the turret rear/top. All I have to do is make the Hoffman device that goes on the loader's side next to the cannon (it's too bad this isn't included as part of the kit [
]), and it will look pretty close to that Leo except for the older style skirts. Also removed the TC's side basket.
Then, I have to get it that dusty and dirty. Gotta find a construction site to get it looking like Will's.
]), and it will look pretty close to that Leo except for the older style skirts. Also removed the TC's side basket.Then, I have to get it that dusty and dirty. Gotta find a construction site to get it looking like Will's.
#86
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From: San Francisco,
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Thats one of my favorite tank videos, here's another http://63.99.108.76/forums/index.php?showtopic=14548 scroll 1/3 down the page and look for a post by Flashen, then click on hellsbells, a wmv download will begin, the video starts off with stills but after 2 minutes the action begins.
Can't wait to see the final result of your modification. In the meantime I'm thinking about purchasing a third Leopard and having somebody talented like Tomzag to see if he can make for me either the Greek HEL or the PSO, if I decide to do this it won't happen until summer.
Will
Can't wait to see the final result of your modification. In the meantime I'm thinking about purchasing a third Leopard and having somebody talented like Tomzag to see if he can make for me either the Greek HEL or the PSO, if I decide to do this it won't happen until summer.
Will
#87
Will,
If I get another Leo it, or the one I have now, will get modified into an STRV122. Would be a challenge, but well worth the effort!
I should have some pics this weekend. Just finished up the mount for the Hoffman device. Looks pretty good, but was it a pain trying to get the angles and such. Probably not 100% correct, but it's close enough! Don't think I want to repeat that process.
Sure wish there were some good pictures of that Oberlausitz Leo. I can't really tell what color the stripes and marks on the 'blanket camo' are, so I'm taking a wild guess and going with either green or brown/black. No doubt, the thing has dust and dirt all over it, too.
If I get another Leo it, or the one I have now, will get modified into an STRV122. Would be a challenge, but well worth the effort!
I should have some pics this weekend. Just finished up the mount for the Hoffman device. Looks pretty good, but was it a pain trying to get the angles and such. Probably not 100% correct, but it's close enough! Don't think I want to repeat that process.

Sure wish there were some good pictures of that Oberlausitz Leo. I can't really tell what color the stripes and marks on the 'blanket camo' are, so I'm taking a wild guess and going with either green or brown/black. No doubt, the thing has dust and dirt all over it, too.
#88
This is it, so far. Still have to get some smaller tubing for the Hoffman mortars, because the tubing I had was too big. Plus, I have to figure out a way to attach the camo sheets without making them permanent. The one on the loader's side isn't going to move, but the ones on the mantle, the TC's side and the one that sits on the hull are just sitting on the tank.
#89
I've run into a problem making the old style skirts. Just can't seem to get the height or angle to look right. Cut all four of the skirts that will hang down and after placing them they just don't look right.
Would anyone happen to know how far they hang down at the longest point? Or better yet, the actual angle?
Would anyone happen to know how far they hang down at the longest point? Or better yet, the actual angle?
#90
Probably not 100% correct as far as the skirt angles, but they look OK to me. Also put yellow tape on it instead of the masking tape. Stays on much better. 
Added some screen grabs of the real demo tank.

Added some screen grabs of the real demo tank.
#92
Took it outside and shot some pics. Had a blast, but lost a marker light guard in the process. A stick caught on the front slope 'sheet camo' and ripped it off.
Oh, well. More scratch building.
Oh, well. More scratch building.
#95
I have a question about this beauty. Can it made (without chopping it to hell) into a standard Leopard 2. Does the kit allow it to be made without the extra armour?
Don
Don
#96
The kit can only be built stock as a Leopard 2A6 (or A5 with a shorter gun barrel) with the add on armor. It would require some slicing and dicing to turn it into an A4 or lower. The bolt on armor is actually part of the plastic turret castings and there is not actual 'turret front' that the real one has (minus the armor). The drivers hatch, gun mantle, and such would have to be seriously reworked, too I believe.
#99
Don,
Don't have the size right off hand, but I plan on removing the hull top sometime this week. I'll measure and post the diameter, then.
~On another note, soon this thing will get some of the hop up parts that it should have had earlier. The metal suspension arms are going to be a must, as well as the idler upgrade and hull support in the idler area. The track is starting to loosen up, and there is really no way to make any fine adjustments to the track tension. [:@]
Don't have the size right off hand, but I plan on removing the hull top sometime this week. I'll measure and post the diameter, then.
~On another note, soon this thing will get some of the hop up parts that it should have had earlier. The metal suspension arms are going to be a must, as well as the idler upgrade and hull support in the idler area. The track is starting to loosen up, and there is really no way to make any fine adjustments to the track tension. [:@]
#100
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From: San Francisco,
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ORIGINAL: CapnCrunch43
The track is starting to loosen up, and there is really no way to make any fine adjustments to the track tension. [:@]
The track is starting to loosen up, and there is really no way to make any fine adjustments to the track tension. [:@]

Will



