Supreme Reign

Sorry to hear that Cap'n. This only proves it was a stupid idea to decide to use plastic/ABS for the suspension arms. What were they thinking[>:]

CapnCrunch43

The ABS plastic wasn't the stupid idea, I don't think. The screws are what caused this. Instead of only creating downward pressure, the screw heads create downward and outward pressure, basically forcing the arm to separate where it has. The tighter the screw is, the more outward pressure it creates, spreading the hole. You can see from the pics that they split from the top down.

I don't think this had to do with rough running, but rather turning the screws down too hard. I had taken the arms off a while back and may have overtightened them on that side. At least that's what I'm hoping. It would be a shame that the same use I have dished out to the King Tiger was too much for the "Uber" Tamiya.

schutzstaffel

it is really hard to swallow that the most expensive one is the plastic one.
"what were there thinking ?"[&o]

Gaizokubanou

I hope mine won't suffer the same fate, considering that I want to abuse the damn tank as soon as I get it.

CapnCrunch43

Hope this works. I took the ABS glue I had and dabbed it on the end trying to work it into the cracks. The worst one was replaced with the spare. Once it dries overnight, I will see if they will stand up to pressure. This stuff welded the support roller mounts to the hull, so it may work. I hope.

CapnCrunch43

It worked!

After the glue dried and I sanded the excess off, they were tested in place. Not a hint of separation anywhere. So, if it happens to any other ones, this is how they will be repaired. I also backed all of the crews out and re-tightened them only to the point where the torsion bar started to move. Hopefully that helps some, too.

Amuro

Glad to see you fixed them Capn. I think you are right on your observations as to why they split. It was most probably that down and outward pressure of the screw. Now we know not to over tighten. A good final quarter turn should be sufficient. I do agree that for the price Tamiya should have made them out of metal.

CapnCrunch43

Yeah, metal ones probably don't split like that.

It hit that tree root hard. I expected to see a cracked lower hull, but no signs of damage. But, yes, at least have the suspension arms made of metal.

CapnCrunch43

It's been a while, but the past weekend had it roaming the back yard again. Fun!

Nothing on it has really changed, and the repairs to the suspension arms are holding up good. Still haven't gotten around to attaching the doghouse permanently. Not being able to stay with one barrel has resulted in swapping them out a bit. I like the way the longer barrel looks, but when it comes to driving around, the shorter barrel is convenient. At least for Mr. Side Swipe, here.

CapnCrunch43

Pics of the scratch built MG mount (MG42 is from the KT kit).

The screw that holds it on is 4mm. Didn't have to do anything to the original hole in the rail.

CapnCrunch43

And a picture of the on going struggle to find just the right camo netting material.

strv122

I used this http://www.build-a-rama.com/1_32/BAR...h-net_32.shtml and heres an example http://www.pbase.com/calvinwill/cons...art_2&page=all

To me it looks good and its easy to work with, I scraped off what appears to be leaves/bushes that are lightly glued to the netting.

On another note, did you ever get that horizontal stabilizer from Germany?

Will

CapnCrunch43

Will,

That camo net looks good. I'd probably even keep the leafy/bushy stuff on, myself. I've been rooting around the Walmart fabric dpt. and found some very convincing base netting for the modern style nets. It has the hex style webbing, and even grabs on just about any thing that sticks up on the tank, just like the real stuff does (which can be bad if you don't want to tear off small plastic details on the model). It's kind of stiff, but if I can find a way to make the foliage part of the netting, it would be awesome.

The stuff in the photos is military mosquito netting. Just the right color and very plyable, but doesn't grab very well. The webbing is rather small, too which makes it hard to stick stuff in.

As for the stabilizer, I haven't. I figured for what I use the tank for, the helicopter one is good enough. Don't really use it that much, anyways.

And, this video is what I eventually want the netting to look like (the Leo that comes into the foreground!). It looks kind of cool with the strips flying in the breeze!

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yfs93aH7IRI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yfs93aH7IRI[/link]

CapnCrunch43

Worked with a new material and this is the result. Might have to thin out the strips some, but I like this a lot better than the felt. [8D]

Amuro

Your camo looks great so far Capn! Hows the leo's stock parts holding up since last time?

CapnCrunch43

Amuro,

Well, the repairs to the suspension arms are holding up and no other cracks have formed since the last time. The only other thing that I've had problems with (and not that big of a deal, anyway) is one of the tow cables snapped in half at the rear. Seems, instead of pulling off the rear tow hook or mount when the cable snagged on something, it tore the cable in half instead.

Glued it back together, too. Going to make ones out of metal braided wire, once the original ones are more glue than plastic, of course.

strv122

Take those stock tow cables and throw them in the trash, the tow cables, front mirrors and the rear turret baskets are the only aftermarket parts I would replace http://www.afv-model.com/4711shop/in...Leopard-2.html the rest of the stock Leopard parts are fine. I have not had any problems with suspension arms, I run my Leos (I have two of them) on dirt, sand, short grass, asphalt and light to medium mud and after a years worth of operation in those scale terrains, have had no problems at all with arms, ABS hull (although I would have liked a metal hull, the new Panther has a metal hull WITH overhangs which will help keep debris out) road wheels and sprocket, the first Leopard I bought I have added about 1 1/2 pounds of fishing weights up front for better weight distribution and tracking and also helps in climbing steep grades and after seven months of running, the suspension, motors, road wheels/sprocket and hull show no signs of stress because of the added weight.

Will (used to be Calvinwill)

Amuro

Great to hear [sm=thumbup.gif] It must have been the over tightening of the screw that cracked them. Once you replace the plastic cable with metal you should no problems. I just started mine. I'm working on a little intro/review movie. I'm editing it right now and it should be up soon. It's around 30 minutes. I think it is too long.

strv122

I forgot one important thing, along with the mirrors, tow cables and baskets, I would also replace the stock grenade launchers with this http://www.sonderfahrzeug-modellbau.de/zubehoer.htm scroll all the way to the bottom and you'll see them.

Will

Amuro

Yeah strv122 is right, the stock parts are more than adequate. I think most of the metal parts are overkill and ripoffs too. I've been thinking on making the turret baskets out of brass rod myself.

In regards to the fishing weight, can one put an extra custom battery pack in the front area? Or, will it add too many wires and affect turret rotation.

strv122

There was some discussion about relocating the battery from turret to the hull and using two batteries in one tank, I know there is a Tamiya style connector that connects two batteries to one DMD, its y shaped with a Tamiya connector at either end, I used to have a link to that item but deleted it, as far as relocating the single battery from turret to hull http://www.rcpanzer.de/apboard/thread.php?id=12434 I believe thats a custom battery, it appears its 5 cells bottom with 1 cell on top.

Will

strv122

Here's that y connector http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD181&P=7

Will

Shagnifico

For modern camo netting you can stretch flat and tape a piece of green plastic like from a trash bag to a board or piece of plywood. Then with an exacto knife cut scale size insicions that modern camo net has.
If you're not familiar with the pattern that camo net is cut in, just do an image search.

Then die a 4x4 kerlex fluf or kerlex roll dark green and unfold it and stretch it out and spot glue it to the plastic net back to give it some added strength. Or if you prefer a floppier more realistic look you can leave the gauze off.

Shagnifico

I should add. When you apply the stretched kerlex apply it so that the threads are diagnal to the cuts on the plastic. That is how real camo net is.

Basically it's just making a scale model of modern camo net. Which essentially is a string net and a tarp that has a series of semi circular lines cut into it. The string net is bound to the tarp with small metal rings. The only difference in the scale model is using glue instead of rings.

On real camo net the metal rings serve another purpose of camoflaging the ground radar signal. So that a truck and artillery cannon look more like a hill of dirt.

Shagnifico

Tarp part of modern camo net.



Now tarp part stretched and attached to the string net.