Tamiya electronics question.
#2
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I replaced all of my white Tamiya connectors with Deans connectors, but if I ever need to send my electronics in for repair or replacement I would DEFINITELY install a new Tamiya plug first. [
] I don't know how strict they are, but if you alter the unit in any way I'm pretty sure that it does void the warranty. Make sure that the lead looks stock by soldering it to the terminal where the original lead was connected, rather than just replacing the end.
Jason
] I don't know how strict they are, but if you alter the unit in any way I'm pretty sure that it does void the warranty. Make sure that the lead looks stock by soldering it to the terminal where the original lead was connected, rather than just replacing the end.Jason
#4
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From: Brooklyn,
NY
ORIGINAL: icecreamslick
I replaced all of my white Tamiya connectors with Deans connectors, but if I ever need to send my electronics in for repair or replacement I would DEFINITELY install a new Tamiya plug first. [
] I don't know how strict they are, but if you alter the unit in any way I'm pretty sure that it does void the warranty. Make sure that the lead looks stock by soldering it to the terminal where the original lead was connected, rather than just replacing the end.
Jason
I replaced all of my white Tamiya connectors with Deans connectors, but if I ever need to send my electronics in for repair or replacement I would DEFINITELY install a new Tamiya plug first. [
] I don't know how strict they are, but if you alter the unit in any way I'm pretty sure that it does void the warranty. Make sure that the lead looks stock by soldering it to the terminal where the original lead was connected, rather than just replacing the end.Jason
On another note, are the motors on the Leo 2 the same as the stock 540's found in other tamiya kits?
#7
Ahh, OK.
Not sure about the wire gauge, but when I first built mine, some things were missing in the kit and had to use some improvised cables as they were one of the things missing. Ended up using 18 guage wire and it worked ok, until the parts from Tamiya arrived. Probably best to find out for sure, tho'.
Not sure about the wire gauge, but when I first built mine, some things were missing in the kit and had to use some improvised cables as they were one of the things missing. Ended up using 18 guage wire and it worked ok, until the parts from Tamiya arrived. Probably best to find out for sure, tho'.
#9
The box that contained a lot of the electronic parts was missing various peices or were wrong, and instead a whole different kit's parts were in their place.
One bag in the box contained almost all of the King Hauler's light kit and such in it! Whoops! [sm=lol.gif]
It was embarasing for Tamiya I'm sure, but they did take care of it very fast.
One bag in the box contained almost all of the King Hauler's light kit and such in it! Whoops! [sm=lol.gif]
It was embarasing for Tamiya I'm sure, but they did take care of it very fast.
#11
Senior Member
My Feedback: (9)
Jason,
Just wondering why you changed the connectors.
Bernie
Just wondering why you changed the connectors.
Bernie

Do you know where they sell the same or better wire for this project? Tower has large gauge wire that may stress the DMD. I don't want to use that. what is the gauge of the tamiya wire anyway?
). I'm pretty sure that the wire is 12 gauge.Jason




