hdbeast

I know that this must have been asked many times and I've used the search with not much luck, is there a good descripton on how to remove the plastic (Pershing) tracks and install Mato metal tracks? I don't want to just start pulling things apart and then read later an easy way from someone with the better way.

Gary

jonasvem

Hi Checkout this link
http://www.matotoys.com/canada/produ...roducts_id=105

Its not that hard really / Jonas

The_Stuff

really just find a single connection. easiest is to use 2 little pliers and to grab one on both side of the track and pull apart. make sure not to do it too hard cause there is that little "center divider" part in the treads. you dont want to loose that. anyhow when putting on the metal tracks its about the opposite. getting the track to line up right and to get that initial pin through requires some patience. and for clamping them together, i used a big "slot adjustable wrench" and just kinda clamped it shut. and if you need to, you can get a buddy to help hold the metal tracks together while you get the pin in. i did it myself but it would probably be easier.

Harquebus

Best way with the Pershing is to disassemble the rear sprocket (remove the screw and the two halves can separate). Remove the entire sprocket and the track will be loose enough to remove. There is no need to take the track apart.

This procedure is best accomplished with the upper hull removed from the lower because the sand skirts will be in the way.

EDIT: Then, install the inside portion of the sprocket, install the new tracks and fit on the outside portion of the sprocket making sure to line up the two halves (they will only assemble one way) and make the teeth on the sprocket mesh with the tracks at the same time. Simple.

hdbeast

Thank you, I like the idea of removing the drive wheel, now that I have driven it for about five battery charges it might be the right time to open it up and take a look at the gears and get a look at what makes this tank work. If you have opened one up (Pershing) is there anything I should look out for? It looks like I see about seven screws that holds the two halfs together. Did fire the BBs today and it works OK, only made it out about 30 - 35 feet. Thanks for the help.

Gary

Harquebus

That sounds about right regarding the number of screws to remove. If I recall correctly, there's a group of three screws at the bottom rear of the hull which should be left alone for this part of the disassembly (they retain the smoke generator).

Once you get the screws removed, lift the upper hull from the front of the tank first since you will have to clear the taillights at the rear. Then slide the upper hull forward and up simultaneously to avoid harming the taillights. Be careful at this point as there are wires still connected to the two halves. There is a multi-pin connector that you will have to pull apart (just forward of the turret ring I think). Once that is done, you can separate the hull halves. I'm not near my tank as I type this so I'm going from memory.

In any event, be observant, try not to pull apart any solder joints (they are notoriously weak) and follow your wiring to be sure you don't disconnect anything inadvertantly. The problem with these pitfalls is remembering where the wires went before they got broken.
If you are extremely careful you might be able to prop the upper hull up on its side and access the tracks without disconnecting any wires.

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask us.

hdbeast

Thanks, will have somthing to do tomorrow.

The_Stuff

oh, well take the easy way why dont you ... i struggled with that thing for hours...... never even thought of that...

hdbeast

New Pershing metal tracks are on and I did it without opening the tank halfs (but that seems to be an easy way to do it) I will open it when it 's time to paint and modify (upgrade) I did start to remove all the parts that are glued on (gas/oil cans and helmets) so I do have a start to upgrading going on, smoke did stop working after about six runs, refilled it but it has not started back up, I'ts not a big deal if it does not work. Still reading the past post to come up with what to cut up or what colors to use for paint.

Harquebus

Great!

I wasn't sure about whether the hull had to be separated to change out the tracks but I'm glad you figured it out on your own.
Also, good move on tearing off the often cheesy glued-on "tank clutter". I think that procedure is often a prerequisite for ownership of this tank.

The smoke generator can be fixed as long as the heating element still works. Main problem is the excessive "batting material" inside the reservoir seems to clog it up. Strangest thing is that it is the most mysterious gizmo on the tank--no one really knows how to make it work consistently.

Decide which era of M26 you like and go for it. I'm all about the M26 and its reputation as a Tiger/Panther/Panzer killer but the tank, as-is, is a Korean War version more or less (i.e., telephone box on right rear hull).

OliverLove

Hello, I have HL Tiger, and Ordered the gearbox replacement and metal tracks, and am having issues finding the screw that the diagrams are showing. How do the wheels come off? I want to remove the road wheels to seal the tank but cant figure out how to remove them. I'm having trouble with the drive wheel and the rear wheel as well!

I'm new to tanks....


EDIT: Nevermind i used the search feature! Thanks

YHR

Welcome. Again it is great to see the new guys jumping into this hobby.

shadopilot

One way I used to put the tracks back together is by butting up the 2 track ends on the drive sprocket, The sprocket teeth hold them together and I run the pins back in. Its alot easier than trying to hold both track ends at the same time.

hdbeast

Good Idea, I also used the pins and slid them in from both ends to align the holes and then pulled the extra one out as I slid the permanent one in (like using an alignment tool) it helped.