RC Tank F.A.Q.
01-28-2008, 02:50 PM
#52
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: happy tanker
cheers 4 the info but as it turned out the mg was dud so it wasn't just me being a prat after all!
cheers 4 the info but as it turned out the mg was dud so it wasn't just me being a prat after all!
01-29-2008, 06:33 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
does anyone have pics of the muzzle flash connection points on the main board as the one that i tried doesn't seem to work![sm=71_71.gif]
02-07-2008, 09:01 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: Fireman Tim
How to Cut out hatches using sewing string.
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb8fRYrq4pA&feature=related]Cutting out Hatches[/link]
How to Cut out hatches using sewing string.
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb8fRYrq4pA&feature=related]Cutting out Hatches[/link]
03-06-2008, 06:54 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Installing an S&S board (RX14) into non-S&S Pershing
Here is my guide with plenty of pics and wiring/plug detail, suitable for all tanks.
[link=http://members.iinet.net.au/~wackywheelz/tanks/hobbyhavoc/ssupgrade/pershing/]LINK[/link]
Here is my guide with plenty of pics and wiring/plug detail, suitable for all tanks.
[link=http://members.iinet.net.au/~wackywheelz/tanks/hobbyhavoc/ssupgrade/pershing/]LINK[/link]
04-11-2008, 04:35 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Complete Heng Long / Hen Long / HL Sound and Smoke (s&s) Technical Reference Manual.
Download the file of interest. dump the .txt extension, open with PDF reader, enjoy.
Yours Simon M.
PS If you claim it as you work I'll get guite mad!
Fc90218.txt = TK-RX13# Kf14318.txt = TK-TX11P (NonUK Controller) Wi59569.txt = TK-YL101 Receiver Tk76799.txt = Sound Protocol
Ed61537.txt = TK-TX11P (NonUK Controller) Zm62134.txt = Controller Protocol
Same order as below
Download the file of interest. dump the .txt extension, open with PDF reader, enjoy.
Yours Simon M.
PS If you claim it as you work I'll get guite mad!
Fc90218.txt = TK-RX13# Kf14318.txt = TK-TX11P (NonUK Controller) Wi59569.txt = TK-YL101 Receiver Tk76799.txt = Sound Protocol
Ed61537.txt = TK-TX11P (NonUK Controller) Zm62134.txt = Controller Protocol
Same order as below
05-05-2008, 07:37 PM
#58
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ZIMMERIT:
by Donald Spalding
Production and Application Methods
From: AFV NEWS, Jan-Apr/1983 issue
This information is from a secret British Intelligence Objectives Sub-
Committee report. The information is now unclassified and entitled,
"Zimmerit" Anti-Magnetic Plaster for AFVs, which was reported by Major
J.W. Thompson and Mr. C.E. Hollis. The report is dated July 1945, and
is not complete due to insufficient information, or the failure to locate
persons with detailed knowledge of the subject.The investigation was
started with the hope that a way might be found to defeat magnetic mines
used against British armor in the war with Japan.
In 1943 the Germans adopted a thick coating for the vertical armored
surfaces of their tanks. This coating was designed to defeat the affects
of mines placed on armored vehicles, mainly tanks, by determined Russian
infantry assault teams. The mines were attached to the tanks and held in
place by magnets built into the bottom of the mines. The function of the
"zimmerit" was simply to provide a non-ferrous magnetic gap between the
steel armor and and the magnets, in other words a non-magnetic stand-off.
Early in 1944 samples of zimmerit were taken from captured vehicles and
instructions for its use obtained from prisoners of war. The composition
of zimmerit was analyzed by C.S.A.R. and found to be the following:
Polyvinyl Acetate-25%, as binder or glue Wood Fiber-10%, as filler
Barium Sulphate-40% Zinc Sulphide-10% Ochre Pigment-15%, for the
dark yellow color.
On August 14, 1945 the investigating team visited the Henschel Werke at
Kassel, Germany and interviewed the Director of Production and
Production Engineer. The following information was obtained. The
zimmerit was received in drums from Chemische Werke Zimmer in Berlin,
but they thought production had taken place in various centers because
of the large scale demands, and because of factory dispersal.
The material arrived in a consistency of soft putty (others have compared
it to paste, plaster or plastic). It contained a volatile solvent smelling
like acetone. No thinners were added before use as it worked very easily
even when handled by inexperienced personnel.
The surface of the tank did not need to be prepared before applying
zimmerit, but it was normal to coat the vehicle with anti-corrosive primer.
The zimmerit was applied to the surface in two coats, using a sheetmetal
trowel. The first coat was 5mm thick and was marked out in squares using
the edge of the trowel. This coat was allowed to dry at ordinary
temperatures for 24 hours. The second coat was applied thinner and
marked in wavy lines with a metal comb. The criss-cross squares increased
the adhesion of the second coat, while the comb markings gave a camouflage
finish, plus poor contact for mines.
After the application of both coats, the surface was treated by a gas
blow-lamp to harden it. This took about an hour per tank and no difficulty
was experienced in getting satisfactory hardness without the zimmerit
becoming brittle. (I have seen samples of aged zimmerit and it reminded
me of compressed sawdust.) During the hardening process the solvent was
removed by the heat of the blow-lamp on the surface. The chief thing to
watch was not to leave any soft spots which could be brushed off the
vehicle if not hardened properly. If the zimmerit was not heated with
a blow-lamp it took eight days to harden. This was impractical considering
the urgent need of tank delivery to the front.
The Production Engineer of Henschel Werke said that the company did not
help in the development of zimmerit, but simply applied it to vehicles.
He thought that zimmerit was dropped late in the war due to the development
of better anti-tank weapons. No mention was made of how successful zimmerit
was, however, when the British Army captured the Henschel Werke they
removed about 100 tons of zimmerit.
The investigating team next visited the Karl Freudenburg A.G. in Weinheim,
Germany and talked with the companyÃs Polyvinyl Acetate experts.
Again, this company had not helped in the development of zimmerit, but
did work on the P.I.B. mineral oil adhesives for sticky bombs. The Polyvinyl
Acetate was used as an emulsion in camouflage paints and as a solvent such
as Ethyl Acetate and Toluene during the war. It was mentioned that C.W.
Zimmer of Berlin was well known for paint manufacture during that time,
and probably used Polyvinyl Acetate.
On visiting I.G. Farbenindustrie A.G. Hochst, Germany, the Plastics
Development Manager and Production Manager were interviewed. They said
that they had heard of the C.W. Zimmer Co., but also knew nothing of the
development of zimmerit. It was also mentioned that such things were kept
secret. After referring to the companyÃs records it was learned that
Mowilith 20 (a Polyvinyl Acetate) was sold to the C.W. Zimmer Co. in
July 1943, but they had no idea if the company or its personnel still
existed.
The general properties of Polyvinyl Acetate were discussed. Mowilith 20
was 50% benzene solution (this is what smelled and was burned off with
blow-lamps). It had an average MW of 3500 (Staudinger viscosity method,
1 - 2% solution) and a melting range of 40 to 50 degrees C.
It was also confirmed that the blow-lamp would remove the solvent and
adhere the zimmerit to the armor, thus increasing its resistance to shock.
In regard to adhesion, it was suggested that a clean or just painted
surface would be better than a greasy or rusty one. Also, that Polyvinyl
Acetate with a pigment mixture (zimmerit had 15% ochre) were somewhat
water-resistant, but due to thermal behavior of Polyvinyl Acetate its use
was limited in plastics as it became brittle when cold.
In conclusion, the team decided that the C.W. Zimmer Co. was responsible
for zimmerit and every effort should be made to contact them. They also
were wondering if zimmerit, thinned down, could have been sprayed on
vehicles to speed up application time. However, no follow-up research was
done due to the end of WW2.
I wish to gratefully acknowledge the help of the staff of the Imperial
War Museum who made this article possible.
by Donald Spalding
Production and Application Methods
From: AFV NEWS, Jan-Apr/1983 issue
This information is from a secret British Intelligence Objectives Sub-
Committee report. The information is now unclassified and entitled,
"Zimmerit" Anti-Magnetic Plaster for AFVs, which was reported by Major
J.W. Thompson and Mr. C.E. Hollis. The report is dated July 1945, and
is not complete due to insufficient information, or the failure to locate
persons with detailed knowledge of the subject.The investigation was
started with the hope that a way might be found to defeat magnetic mines
used against British armor in the war with Japan.
In 1943 the Germans adopted a thick coating for the vertical armored
surfaces of their tanks. This coating was designed to defeat the affects
of mines placed on armored vehicles, mainly tanks, by determined Russian
infantry assault teams. The mines were attached to the tanks and held in
place by magnets built into the bottom of the mines. The function of the
"zimmerit" was simply to provide a non-ferrous magnetic gap between the
steel armor and and the magnets, in other words a non-magnetic stand-off.
Early in 1944 samples of zimmerit were taken from captured vehicles and
instructions for its use obtained from prisoners of war. The composition
of zimmerit was analyzed by C.S.A.R. and found to be the following:
Polyvinyl Acetate-25%, as binder or glue Wood Fiber-10%, as filler
Barium Sulphate-40% Zinc Sulphide-10% Ochre Pigment-15%, for the
dark yellow color.
On August 14, 1945 the investigating team visited the Henschel Werke at
Kassel, Germany and interviewed the Director of Production and
Production Engineer. The following information was obtained. The
zimmerit was received in drums from Chemische Werke Zimmer in Berlin,
but they thought production had taken place in various centers because
of the large scale demands, and because of factory dispersal.
The material arrived in a consistency of soft putty (others have compared
it to paste, plaster or plastic). It contained a volatile solvent smelling
like acetone. No thinners were added before use as it worked very easily
even when handled by inexperienced personnel.
The surface of the tank did not need to be prepared before applying
zimmerit, but it was normal to coat the vehicle with anti-corrosive primer.
The zimmerit was applied to the surface in two coats, using a sheetmetal
trowel. The first coat was 5mm thick and was marked out in squares using
the edge of the trowel. This coat was allowed to dry at ordinary
temperatures for 24 hours. The second coat was applied thinner and
marked in wavy lines with a metal comb. The criss-cross squares increased
the adhesion of the second coat, while the comb markings gave a camouflage
finish, plus poor contact for mines.
After the application of both coats, the surface was treated by a gas
blow-lamp to harden it. This took about an hour per tank and no difficulty
was experienced in getting satisfactory hardness without the zimmerit
becoming brittle. (I have seen samples of aged zimmerit and it reminded
me of compressed sawdust.) During the hardening process the solvent was
removed by the heat of the blow-lamp on the surface. The chief thing to
watch was not to leave any soft spots which could be brushed off the
vehicle if not hardened properly. If the zimmerit was not heated with
a blow-lamp it took eight days to harden. This was impractical considering
the urgent need of tank delivery to the front.
The Production Engineer of Henschel Werke said that the company did not
help in the development of zimmerit, but simply applied it to vehicles.
He thought that zimmerit was dropped late in the war due to the development
of better anti-tank weapons. No mention was made of how successful zimmerit
was, however, when the British Army captured the Henschel Werke they
removed about 100 tons of zimmerit.
The investigating team next visited the Karl Freudenburg A.G. in Weinheim,
Germany and talked with the companyÃs Polyvinyl Acetate experts.
Again, this company had not helped in the development of zimmerit, but
did work on the P.I.B. mineral oil adhesives for sticky bombs. The Polyvinyl
Acetate was used as an emulsion in camouflage paints and as a solvent such
as Ethyl Acetate and Toluene during the war. It was mentioned that C.W.
Zimmer of Berlin was well known for paint manufacture during that time,
and probably used Polyvinyl Acetate.
On visiting I.G. Farbenindustrie A.G. Hochst, Germany, the Plastics
Development Manager and Production Manager were interviewed. They said
that they had heard of the C.W. Zimmer Co., but also knew nothing of the
development of zimmerit. It was also mentioned that such things were kept
secret. After referring to the companyÃs records it was learned that
Mowilith 20 (a Polyvinyl Acetate) was sold to the C.W. Zimmer Co. in
July 1943, but they had no idea if the company or its personnel still
existed.
The general properties of Polyvinyl Acetate were discussed. Mowilith 20
was 50% benzene solution (this is what smelled and was burned off with
blow-lamps). It had an average MW of 3500 (Staudinger viscosity method,
1 - 2% solution) and a melting range of 40 to 50 degrees C.
It was also confirmed that the blow-lamp would remove the solvent and
adhere the zimmerit to the armor, thus increasing its resistance to shock.
In regard to adhesion, it was suggested that a clean or just painted
surface would be better than a greasy or rusty one. Also, that Polyvinyl
Acetate with a pigment mixture (zimmerit had 15% ochre) were somewhat
water-resistant, but due to thermal behavior of Polyvinyl Acetate its use
was limited in plastics as it became brittle when cold.
In conclusion, the team decided that the C.W. Zimmer Co. was responsible
for zimmerit and every effort should be made to contact them. They also
were wondering if zimmerit, thinned down, could have been sprayed on
vehicles to speed up application time. However, no follow-up research was
done due to the end of WW2.
I wish to gratefully acknowledge the help of the staff of the Imperial
War Museum who made this article possible.
05-15-2008, 10:48 AM
#59
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
TK RX14 Circuit
Its basically a RX-13# with a MOSFET output stage.
This gives ups it to at least 10A, but only 2W.
I cannot identify the 'LL6' SMD, if anyone is aware of what it is I'd be grateful.
Yours Simon M.
Download the attached and dump the .TXT
Its basically a RX-13# with a MOSFET output stage.
This gives ups it to at least 10A, but only 2W.
I cannot identify the 'LL6' SMD, if anyone is aware of what it is I'd be grateful.
Yours Simon M.
Download the attached and dump the .TXT
05-28-2008, 02:52 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
I've got an S & S HL Tiger 1 and it suddenly began to make a loud, whine when the smoke switch is turned on. It's not affected by the volume control, and is nearly as loud as the engine noise, and the unit does not appear to be smoking (although I've not had it on for very long with the whine). I've used this only for maybe 1 hour since receiving it 6 months or so ago. I've never taken one of these tanks apart, but will if it's necessary.
Any help would be welcome!
ErichB
Any help would be welcome!
ErichB
07-04-2008, 02:53 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Not mundane at all. I like my tanks to look as realistic as possible.
One of the best sources for tips and tricks on painting, camouflage etc are scale model web sites.
This one is excellent: http://www.missing-lynx.com
One of the best sources for tips and tricks on painting, camouflage etc are scale model web sites.
This one is excellent: http://www.missing-lynx.com
07-04-2008, 03:28 PM
#62
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Q: what kind of wear and tear can I expect concerning the tracks of a tamiya tank (king tiger)?
Should i expect to reguarly to but replacement's or do they last forever, because I just can't seem to find cheap replacements. I don't mind buying the verry expensive metal ones, but not on a regular basis.
Should i expect to reguarly to but replacement's or do they last forever, because I just can't seem to find cheap replacements. I don't mind buying the verry expensive metal ones, but not on a regular basis.
07-07-2008, 07:48 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
The regular nylon tracks that come with the kit are fine for now. After awhile they will wear out or they will stretch forcing you to adjust the tension until you cannot adjust them any further and force you to replace them. Metal tracks will probably last forever and add a lot of weight to the tank which gives it a more realistic movement. Impact and Kenny Kong probably make the best metal tracks. Not cheap but a great upgrade!
07-26-2008, 01:44 PM
#64
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: Richard L.
Q: How do I remove the road wheels from an HL Tiger I?
A: Insert a wide flat blade screwdriver between the suspension arm and the back of the road wheel. Then twist the screwdriver to pry out the road wheel. Once the wheel axle is loose, hold the suspension arm with the fingers on one hand while pulling the wheel straight out with the other hand. It is important not to exert any pulling force on the suspension arm because it might break. You can also use a small pair of bent nose pliers to pry the wheel out from the back.
Q: How do I remove the road wheels from an HL Tiger I?
A: Insert a wide flat blade screwdriver between the suspension arm and the back of the road wheel. Then twist the screwdriver to pry out the road wheel. Once the wheel axle is loose, hold the suspension arm with the fingers on one hand while pulling the wheel straight out with the other hand. It is important not to exert any pulling force on the suspension arm because it might break. You can also use a small pair of bent nose pliers to pry the wheel out from the back.
09-19-2008, 09:59 PM
#65
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Here we can ADD a list of forum post links that keep coming back every 3 months!
The DEAD HORSE or R & D idea in progress
1} Brushless Motors
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7963841/tm.htm
The DEAD HORSE or R & D idea in progress
1} Brushless Motors
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7963841/tm.htm
09-28-2008, 07:22 AM
#67
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
What parts are you looking for? You can always contact www.matotoys.com/canada requesting parts
09-30-2008, 12:32 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: ErichB
I've got an S & S HL Tiger 1 and it suddenly began to make a loud, whine when the smoke switch is turned on. It's not affected by the volume control, and is nearly as loud as the engine noise, and the unit does not appear to be smoking (although I've not had it on for very long with the whine). I've used this only for maybe 1 hour since receiving it 6 months or so ago. I've never taken one of these tanks apart, but will if it's necessary.
Any help would be welcome!
ErichB
I've got an S & S HL Tiger 1 and it suddenly began to make a loud, whine when the smoke switch is turned on. It's not affected by the volume control, and is nearly as loud as the engine noise, and the unit does not appear to be smoking (although I've not had it on for very long with the whine). I've used this only for maybe 1 hour since receiving it 6 months or so ago. I've never taken one of these tanks apart, but will if it's necessary.
Any help would be welcome!
ErichB
Hi, I just got my first tank, a Pershing (a Tiger is on the way!), and im getting the same problem. The whine from the smoke generator is incredibly loud. I am getting smoke, and a nice amount too, but I cant use it with the noise.
Is this normal, and if so, is there any way to dampen the sound?
Also, when I turn up the volume, it only makes the engine sounds louder, not the gun or MG.
Cheers,
Rik
10-01-2008, 12:55 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
The smoke unit is a nice idea but it has caused problems for many of us.
If you do a search on this forum you will find a few threads were members have customized the smoke unit to run with a PC cooling fan instead of the noisy motor and piston unit that it comes with. Your other option is to switch it off.
Hope this helps
John
If you do a search on this forum you will find a few threads were members have customized the smoke unit to run with a PC cooling fan instead of the noisy motor and piston unit that it comes with. Your other option is to switch it off.
Hope this helps
John
10-13-2008, 11:59 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Whenever I accidentally leave the battery connected in the tank and switch it on after a few hours it doesn't respond to the controller.
Has anyone encountered this incident?
Has anyone encountered this incident?
11-23-2008, 12:57 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Hi Im new here and to rc tanks in general. I dont know squat about them 
Im planning on getting a Tamiya Tiger 1 very soon and have been looking at videos of them. One video I saw of the TK1 had a moving machine gun that moved left and right when it fired. However it was the only one I saw that had that feature. i wanna know if that upgrade is available or if it was a custome job?
here is the video Im talking about:
http://www.tomsrctanks.com/images/tiger1b%20win.WMV
Im planning on getting a Tamiya Tiger 1 very soon and have been looking at videos of them. One video I saw of the TK1 had a moving machine gun that moved left and right when it fired. However it was the only one I saw that had that feature. i wanna know if that upgrade is available or if it was a custome job?here is the video Im talking about:
http://www.tomsrctanks.com/images/tiger1b%20win.WMV
12-08-2008, 02:42 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Hi John.
John, i've got reduce the noise in the pump system of HL smoke generator by bending a little be the pump axis. I've attached a picture with the Normal axis - "n" and the bended one - "b".
In addition, one difficult thing that I think is , after the repair of this generators - burning element- re- seal the unit, avoiding leaks of smoke.
This will finish with the new model of smoke generator that came with my las Sutg III from Mato. Take a look in the unit.
Regards,
JEferson
John, i've got reduce the noise in the pump system of HL smoke generator by bending a little be the pump axis. I've attached a picture with the Normal axis - "n" and the bended one - "b".
In addition, one difficult thing that I think is , after the repair of this generators - burning element- re- seal the unit, avoiding leaks of smoke.
This will finish with the new model of smoke generator that came with my las Sutg III from Mato. Take a look in the unit.
Regards,
JEferson
12-08-2008, 02:46 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: JIDM
Hi John.
John, i've got reduce the noise in the pump system of HL smoke generator by bending a little be the pump axis. I've attached a picture with the Normal axis - "n" and the bended one - "b".
In addition, one difficult thing that I think is , after the repair of this generators - burning element- re- seal the unit, avoiding leaks of smoke.
This will finish with the new model of smoke generator that came with my las Sutg III from Mato. Take a look in the unit.
Regards,
JEferson
Hi John.
John, i've got reduce the noise in the pump system of HL smoke generator by bending a little be the pump axis. I've attached a picture with the Normal axis - "n" and the bended one - "b".
In addition, one difficult thing that I think is , after the repair of this generators - burning element- re- seal the unit, avoiding leaks of smoke.
This will finish with the new model of smoke generator that came with my las Sutg III from Mato. Take a look in the unit.
Regards,
JEferson
01-04-2009, 10:42 AM
#75
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: shenlonco
the perfect airsoft battle ammo!
paint balls that work with your tanks
http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/pe...?pellet_id=315
http://www.airgunwarehouseinc.com/py-p-315.html
https://www.sportsmans-depot.com/pro...Paintball.html
RED paintballs http://www.bbgunworld.com/store/item510.htm
GREEN paintballs http://www.bbgunworld.com/store/item511.htm
Truly 100% biodegradable bb's they degrade in a few days and explode on impact...NO MORE MESS!
Can be purchased here.[link=http://www.xtremez.com/airsoft/product_information.asp?number=BBFE1700&dept=487]100% biodegradable bbs[/link]
Vedios showing paintballs breaking at 20ft they and break from over 30ft! and the Bio BB's exploding on impact leaving a white chalk like mark on another tank.
They do break at 35ft i tested this with my 1/24 VS tank video bellow
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdqF7bTbBrU]Paint ball testing[/link]
35 feet test
http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/marui...-paintball-wmv
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbgOi4ypuNc]Bio BB testing exploding on impact[/link]
the perfect airsoft battle ammo!paint balls that work with your tanks http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/pe...?pellet_id=315
http://www.airgunwarehouseinc.com/py-p-315.html
https://www.sportsmans-depot.com/pro...Paintball.html
RED paintballs http://www.bbgunworld.com/store/item510.htm
GREEN paintballs http://www.bbgunworld.com/store/item511.htm
Truly 100% biodegradable bb's they degrade in a few days and explode on impact...NO MORE MESS!Can be purchased here.[link=http://www.xtremez.com/airsoft/product_information.asp?number=BBFE1700&dept=487]100% biodegradable bbs[/link]
Vedios showing paintballs breaking at 20ft they and break from over 30ft! and the Bio BB's exploding on impact leaving a white chalk like mark on another tank.They do break at 35ft i tested this with my 1/24 VS tank video bellow
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdqF7bTbBrU]Paint ball testing[/link]
35 feet test
http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/marui...-paintball-wmv
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbgOi4ypuNc]Bio BB testing exploding on impact[/link]
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markust74 (02-20-2021)