RC Tank F.A.Q.
#126


Yes, there are several different types of low voltage alarms on the market, some of them that show the voltage of each cell and some of them that just give you Red Light Green Light, kind of like go, no-go. You can get them from HobbyKing anywhere from about $3 up to about $10. Just go to Hobby King and look for low-voltage alarm, LVA for short.
The following users liked this post:
Ghost@amps1 (04-28-2022)
#127
Member

Yes, there are several different types of low voltage alarms on the market, some of them that show the voltage of each cell and some of them that just give you Red Light Green Light, kind of like go, no-go. You can get them from HobbyKing anywhere from about $3 up to about $10. Just go to Hobby King and look for low-voltage alarm, LVA for short.
#128
Member

Oh yeah and add extra room for the wires and plugs please
#130


I found this out the hard way lol. I bought two RC RoardingTop Lipo batts and neither my HL Tiger I or Sherman would take them so I bought two others that do fit, and have to sell the other two, if I can. Whoops measure measure measure!
Oh yeah and add extra room for the wires and plugs please
Oh yeah and add extra room for the wires and plugs please

#131
Member
#132
#134

I have zipped off an email to them already just thought somebody might know .
Some TCB's with a Serial Port 2 can drive the Sabertooth but the 2 I know of Open Panzer and the ASP boards aren't available anymore.
I'm going thru IBU,CLARK,Elmod and others to see if they have the Serial Port 2 output.
Thank you .
PS I found a shop that will have a solution.
This or some version of this will let me through a Y lead go straight to the Sabertooth and on the other side of the Y lead convert PWM to IBUS/SBUS thru a system like this to go to a IBUS/SBUS TCB. .
https://www.flyingtech.co.uk//electr...fc-pixhawk-apm
Some TCB's with a Serial Port 2 can drive the Sabertooth but the 2 I know of Open Panzer and the ASP boards aren't available anymore.
I'm going thru IBU,CLARK,Elmod and others to see if they have the Serial Port 2 output.
Thank you .
PS I found a shop that will have a solution.
This or some version of this will let me through a Y lead go straight to the Sabertooth and on the other side of the Y lead convert PWM to IBUS/SBUS thru a system like this to go to a IBUS/SBUS TCB. .
https://www.flyingtech.co.uk//electr...fc-pixhawk-apm
Last edited by Biasphere1; 06-11-2022 at 11:06 PM.
#135


Yes, those 2000 mAh batteries only run a heavy tank for a few minutes. I run 4500 or 5000 mAh most of the time and it gives me well over an hour of run time. Some folks use lithium ion batteries to get more run time with less weight / bulk, but those batteries have special needs to prevent fires. Start a thread in the main tank forum and you will get more responses to your questions.
OOPS, correction, it's the LiPo batteries that have issues with fire, not Lithium ion.
Welcome aboard.
OOPS, correction, it's the LiPo batteries that have issues with fire, not Lithium ion.
Welcome aboard.
#136

Talking about battery and battery charging. I thought I would put my two cents in from experience. I've had NiMH batteries sizzle in a charger (luckily I was in the room) burned my fingers as I pulled them out of the charger. An Alkaline 9V battery blew up that was on my shelf of "dead" batteries. I found something weird on the floor and after some detective work found out it was the internals of the 9 V battery. Fortunately no bad experiences with all my Lipos but I'm always present when they charge and they are stored in those special cases that are supposed to be safe if they ignite (I have my doubts about there safety). I also use a quality charger and charge on metal shelves in case something gets really hot.
The following users liked this post:
Ghost@amps1 (07-20-2022)