Great job Jonas,

I'd love to see how it all works, I like my T34, but hate the way it runs stock,[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Great work Jonas, you really do make an easy time of all this re-wiring/re-fitting.. I wish I had your inventiveness for the mechanical/electrical side of this hobby

Glad you all like it

The gearbox covers is just an old 1,5 liter 7UP bottle is cut up and fitted on top of the gearboxes , but if you really need a pic ... I just snap one for you ... did the same on my tiger erlier ( check link below ) but that was with a clear plastic bottle ....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_54...tm.htm#5411889

I was really dissapointed by T34 stock electronics - the HL electronics is not the best one either, but its must be the best for that price !!! ... it surley makes the driving more fun ..

All the re-wiring im doing has one basic idea - easy acess .....

Jonas

Jonas, I have ordered a WSN T34 from Modelocity, it should be with me very soon, I plan to do a similar upgrade to you. One question, I notice you and a few others have added stiffening to the tank hull, I didn't with my HL tiger and have had no problems even driving it on the rough stuff. Why do you think you need this? I want to check before I modify my T34 - am I missing something. (My HL does through a track off the sprocket occasionally... but this is easy to put back on).

thanks

Conrad

The HL hull is much stiffer to start with than the WSN hull ( when I cut away the battery box on the WSN it got really unstable ) , and since you are gonna do some upgrades , and the tank will get heavier the stiffening is more needed ....

The track trowing is usually ( as far as I know ) due to the idlerweel bending slightly inwars ( if its stock mounted ) when you are driving - causing the aligment to the roadweels to be messed up .... solved by stiffening chassie or/and a whole rear axel ...
never had any problems with track throwing since I got the idlerweel fixed ( and carefully aligned with the roadweels )

I am impressed. Hey, what green stuff did you use to civer the gear box. How did it away from gears? I use plastic tapes?

If you remove the battery box in any of these tanks a stiffening plate is pretty much mandatory.

You mean structural reinforcement......thanks for the tip, I should do with my panzer III.

The green stuff is just an old 7UP bottle ....

Yes "If you remove the battery box in any of these tanks a stiffening plate is pretty much mandatory" , but the chassie is not that good/stiff to start with , it just got much much worse without the batterybox ....

Wonderful work, I'm going to copy a lot of your solutions. The flipped gun especially, since I did not think there was enough room for it.
I am waiting for the custom 3700 mAh battery pack I found on ebay (similar to your solution) as well as the metal parts for suspensions and gearboxes (which I mean to keep in their original form).
Also liked the rear hatch. I want to use the driver hatch too, but that is also a good place to use, maybe for the charger plug.

Speaking of the T-34, does anybody know a source in the states for those 8-pin turret connectors? I would like to connect the T-34 turret wires to an 8-pin connector from a Heng Long S&S board.

Richard, If you find a source, let me know. I am fixing to go through the same thing with my 1/16 M1A1.

The 8 pin connector would sure be nice - I just used an old one from my non S/S board , and placed some metalwire pins in it ...
Here is an VERY scematic pic ( did it in about 1/2 minute ) .... will post a real one later ...