I was hoping that a few experienced builders could post some pictures or diagrams of the way you keep all your wires organized and neat. I have read the build threads and have a few ideas from those but have a few questions as a result.

On most build threads the boards are turned to allow for cooling, how you them secure them in the tank? Build something or simply screw directly into the plastic?

Where do you buy the small clips and velco?

Any and all info would be great!

Thanks!!!

I use small wire ties and hot glue after I'm sure of there placement

I build a false floor and have all the wires run under that. You end up with a tidy interior.

YHR on your front firewall you have a bunch of connectors, where did you get those?

Those terminal strip's are available just about everywhere that sells electrical stuff. You can cut them to the amount of terminals you need (the ones I buy come in a strip of 12, different sizes available)

zip ties, 1/4" wire loom, and those little terminal blocks that HL uses for the smokers. I bring the battery power to the terminal block, then power the board, fans and accessories off of that. I use very small fan that can blow on and cool boards in stock location on PZIII, Pershing, and Tiger. Less lazy solution for Pershing and Tiger hulls is to build a dedicated electronics tray but those tanks of mine don't need them yet.

Man, I wish I could get with one of you electronics gurus for a couple days for a little OJT on this RC stuff. The tanks look so neat and you make it seem so simple, but I'm a total zero at electronic stuff...unless I do it a couple times and learn what not to do to fry a board or some other sensitive items. Photos don't do a lot of good, as it has been told a few times, HL doesn't do color coding and I'd probably wire up a hot cable to something and melt the turret.

This stuff really looks nice.

Swath do you have any pictures of this setup?

I too would kill for a few hours with electrical savy tanker!

Be a nice thing to consider for some tank combat weekends, if the host could get a couple electonics guys/gals to run a "how to" program for lots of us beginners.

I belive this would greatly increase the membership and general activity level of many if they could learn about doctoring/modifying/changing over the RC systems to where they could do more with a tank that won't do much. Basic soldering is not difficult, but it does get touchy around elecronic contacts and things that burn out easy. It would definately increase the interest in RC tanks. I have lost some interest because I have some tanks that are giving me a hassle and there's no one in this area to do or show me how to do the work.

I learned woodwind repair on my own and now I can rebuild any instrument (outside of sax) in my back room with no problem. Same would apply if I were to get some supervised hands-on with RC stuff. I think a lot of guys are like this.

Bill

Bill and Oliver, I'm no expert! I learned like Bill says, by hurting my wallet and blowing up boards! I've got more burned up boards then most guys have tanks!

Attached are some pictures before using the loom of my PZIII project. The wiring diagram is for the lower hull and can be used for all tanks, the only additions you have to make are for the taillights if your tank has them.

I did my last M26A1, Tiger and Panther this same way. The Tiger and Panther didn't get remote charge jacks.

Working on Walker BullDog now, It will be wired the same way with charge port and switches in the back, might do 360 turret and Pzrwest Antenna coil. It will also have provisions for the wireless camera to be mounted on top of the mantlet as in real life. Haven't taken too many pictures of that one yet, still in pieces.

It sure would be nice if somebody would show us how to wire things.....It's always "simple" --if you know how!

I went to the local " TheSource, by Circuit City" store (Radio Shack to you guys in the States), asked about "heat sinks" --- and got a blank look before being told "we don't handle those: go to a computer store." Does that quality as "Help"?????

What exactly do you want people to show you? I learned right here and trial and error, lots of errors!

Go to newegg.com or some online store and browse through their heatsinks. If you don't have an old computer laying around already. Haven't used heatsinks myself yet, boards are still in stock locations with fans blowing on them. Not the top either, the part that connects directly to the transistors. Haven't blown a board yet. A miracle for me!

Always draw a detailed wiring diagram of the tank before taking anything apart, lower hull, upper hull and turret. That way you won't wire up something backward and melt a wire or blow something up and you can improve or add to the design. Do you have spare smokers laying around? Those little junctions are more compact then I've seen others use and FREE!

Here are some pictures of my FULL tiger...

One More

Come on Kabul, 10000mah, not 3600 on a lucky day!

You write the book on cramming stuff into an interior in an orderly fashion buddy!

that is one "busy" tiger KT nice one

Practice, practice, practice. I can't preach it enough. I once worked on $70,000 BMW's and didn't know a thing about soldering until called upon. And then I did all types of electrical recalls that'll make your skin crawl just seeing that particular car roll in on the hook.

Books are a great help. Take a course in soldering at night. I found the key to working around electronics is to use a low watt iron, use of a heat sink/anti-static ground and the correct solder. That's it!

Oh, and did I mention practice?

Bill, I can't believe you living over there in tankland by the Museum and you can't find help amoung those 'tank guru's'.


Jeff

I got 3600... have no worry swath... 2 to be exact!

I think I might use LIPO for future projects.. like a PZIII more room!

Wait till you see the upper turret wiring in the works now!

If you check my Gruppe Fehrmann F01 Thread you will see the ElMod is set up so it is removable and transferable with ease to other tanks....

Any suggestion WHICH battle system I should put in it?

KT

Yeah, 500fps .30 gram aluminum airsoft! Compressed Gas Gun! Nothing but the best for your Tiger! I just don't see the appeal of shooting lasers when you have TANK!!!

The first question EVERY little kid asks me when the see our tanks is do they shoot?

The trouble if you want to fight with a cannon like that is everyone else would ALSO have one!

Just how strong is the 'armor' on an HL or Tamiya?

When we fight with our 'wimpy' little Tamiya system, we do plenty of damage to our OWN tanks, thank you.

Just imagine how bad it would be if the other guy was actually ripping parts off and punching holes in your masterpiece!

I know, I break plenty of things just driving them around. Almost always something when I pick it up even! All those plugs would be a badge of honor, the trick is to get the other guy before he gets me though! I'd build a tank for it instead of paintballs, just like the model warship guys do. I think the 6mm airsoft regulated to 300fps would minimize damage. Paintballs would allow you to keep playing, it wouldn't be any fun by getting having a round from Perry's Tiger go through my board and cooling fan or blow a battery pack apart! It would take at least an hour to make the necessary repairs and get back in the game!

Jeff, I live in columbia SC...Danville is way up ouside of Greenwood, so really not just up the next block....and when you work at night, and weekends, makes it even worse.

Practice is nice, if you know from move #1 what you are practicing. Like I tell my son when he comes over to straighten up my computer and tells me he showed me a couple months ago....OK, I'll strip down a piccolo or bassoon and show you how to repad it and reassemble and adjust it...or tie on a new bagpipe bag and seal it..then tune the reeds... next month, you come over and do it.

What a lot of us need is someone with RC savvy to have us do (a) task(s) and supervise, then show us maybe, a better (or safer) way to do it. Simple thing like swapping out motors....very easy (what I'm told) once you have done it a time or two, replacing a board and getting all the wires in the right place, moving a MG LED without busting it up and have it work once it's in place. I feel good at being able to move the antenna on my Pz IIIs and tigers to the correct spot and have them work, but that's very, very basic and not much can go wrong. Moving the Pershing ant to the turret is a bit more complicated and have left the last two where they are.

To YHR: greatest job, I like it .
To Kabul Tanker: greatest job... but I think that you must to cover your gears. The grease...

I see and understand. Having a unique schedule is tough. As far as relocating antenna's, I would do a cosmetic one in the turret and lay the receiver antenna lead inside the tank ... like I do all my tanks.

My wife was in the marching band in HS so I know a little about what you are talking about. Working with solder is easier. Once you understand and experience solder flow, tining and heat sink importance you've got it made.

Get a bunch of wires, connectors and pre-solder them. This is called tining. This makes soldering 10 times as easy. Choose the proper wattage on your iron so that the items you are working with do not become too hot and damage them.

As far as board replacements, make a schematic that you can understand, color code it, tag the wires or replace one wire at a time. Swapping out motors is the first thing to learn. Get a 15 watt iron and cradle and take wires off junk toy motors and resolder them!

I currently own and use 4 irons on a variety of projects. I didn't have anyone show me or stand over my shoulder I did it by practicing. I'm not trying to be show off or a know-it-all just want to be of some help with something I feel can easily be overcome.

Heck, I still ask questions. I wish I could paint half as well as most of you guys here!


Jeff

Oraculo...

Check out the firewall..... its high enough and it acts as an engine, gear box compartment wall.. and\ I can greese teh gear boxes THROUGH the front hatch.
KT