herrmill

Here's a RC conversion of a [link=http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5725.0]Trumpeter 1/35 LCM [/link]. The builder has a neat set up hiding the battery inside the tank.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Herrmill:

Slight typo there mate. Trumpeter, not Tamiya.

According to the Perth Military Modelling IPMS site, the Italeri one is more accurate for hull dimensions, but the Trumpeter has better detailing bits. [link=http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/misc/lcm3/lcm3.htm](see review here)[/link]

I've thought of getting the Italeri myself... just for a smaller reference for my winter project of a 1/16 one. Now that I'm feeling better and will soon be in cheaper digs, its on the to-do list again.

PS: I have 1/35 plans, if anyone can cut hull frames and keels for making 'DIY kits, let me know. I can send paper copies, or get 'em digitally scanned and send those on CD.

herrmill

Noted Wolf - appears I was thinking tanks & typing something else. Its certainly is a Trumpy since I saw one just last Sunday at my LHS.

rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi white wolf
i take a paper copy please pm me thanks rye

maxs

hi
ill take one two or i can get a copy from rye thanks max"s

rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi
anyone hear from whitewolf mcbride or know how to get in touch i would really like a set of plans fro the landing craft, thanks rye

Harquebus

rye: Why not send WhiteWolf a PM (Private Message)?


I think Pat Matthews did a much tidier setup on his Trumpeter 1/35 LCM conversion. His cargo of a halftrack serves only as hidden location for ballast so there is no need to waste a model tank only to have it for battery concealment. He says he needs to add more ballast to the boat itself so perhaps a Heng Long 1/30 Sherman could be the cargo instead.

http://www.geocities.com/patsmodels/lcm3/

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Sorry for the silence guys...

Was busy locking down the stuff for my new apartment (my subsidized apartment finally came through after 10 years of waiting) Then I'll be spending most of July doing the actual move, but will try to get the plans in to have them scanned.

Question becomes: as-is copies of the 1/35 plans, or the post-scan/digitized ones?

WhiteWolf

Red_Rabbit

Hi WWMB

I would like to have copies too and as for my cases the digitized and emailed would be the cheapest choise (living in Finland- You know; where Santa Clause is living).

But let the others choose, because in my case the building it wouldn't be in first priority (have to make the pool ready first. And before that, the battleground need buildings and bridges and..)

Yours,

RR

PS: Congratulations for Yours new apartment!

rye

My Feedback: (10)

all done thanks for the help, rye

Panther F

It's fantastic!

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

*sigh* Looking Good Rye.

Gotta get cracking on mine... plans hopefully will go back to the printers tomorrow for the promised copy for my guy who said he might be interested in short-kitting 'em.

Gotta tell ya, 1/16 scale enlargements ain't cheap ($20 a pop not counting postage) so anyone wanting the scanned versions I got cut on CD for printing themselves can get 'em for cost of CD postage, or if they have the email capacity (I have a 7Mbps line now) I'm in the process of slowly going thru the scan to clean it up (the original wasn't very clean) and will provide the raw and in-progress 'clean' versions.

Too much R/C gear... too little time/energy (soon to be remedied with an iron infusion) and dinero.


WhiteWolf

rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi
well it floats and goes great in rough waters but ramp door sticking ,got that fixs lead tank die on ramp bad battery fix that ,very rough water labor day morning though it would be like d-day took movie in black and white ,atfer tank die on frist run try it again with good tank, got out there water over the sten got the recvier wet boat die so its drying out will try again this weekend until then heres the frist vedio frist time in the water,will postnew one if she goes this weekend thanks rye

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EAAimI2xb8&feature=channel_page

SteelFist

Outstanding job. Thanks for posting.

SNOWTANK

Waterproof the receivor so that it doesn't short out or seal the hatch.

sir_francis

From my country...

http://www.rctank.it/index.php?optio...=detail&id=212
http://www.rctank.it/index.php?optio...tegory&catid=6

Francis

yosipanji

the detail is great...


[link=http://www.ratson.com]Landing Craft Tank[/link]

tomo 17

hi there.i was realy intrested about building a landing craft when i saw the large arey of them hereand onyoutube, so iv jumped stright in this was be for christmas 2009 and now its realy starting to take shape,its loosley based around a british lcu mk 9.is roughly 1/16 scale to mach the two tanks i have for it.its a bit of a beast to be hounst its 5ft 2 and about 2ft wide,and about 5kg.

so just getting to the trickty bit of moters and power supply now,i want two elitric motersbut because of is size i want to know what is a good recommendable type for the boat type

many thanx

tomo

oztruck

Hi tomo, I used 2 motors from 12volt cordless screwdrivers. Plenty of power and not expensive if you look around.

tomo 17

ok thanks.im new to all this so some stupid qustions maycome your way.how
did you make this set up?and what kinda 12v battires did you use?many thaks

tomo

oztruck

I used 2 x12volt marine ESC for control and a small motor cycle battery for good power and long run time.

The two motors are running through 3/1 reduction gear boxes, Don't need the speed but love the power.

The 12volt battery also drives the motor for the front ramp.

There is also a 7.2v battery for powering the sound system and running lights.

tomo 17

smashing cheeres,how hard was it to set up the ramp and motor to work as well as yours?im goin to put up some picks up in the next few daysof the her so far.

oztruck

tomo 17 I used a gear head motor to drive a threaded rod with a nut that moves along the threaded rod. As it moves it raises or lowers the ramp by moving the nut the rod. Connected to the nut is a length of wire cable which in turn is connected to the ramp, as it goes out the ramp comes down, as it goes back the ramp goes up.
The switch for the ramp is controlled by a servo pushing a DPDT switch. At each end of the rod is a switch to turn to the power off to the gear head motor automatically and each end switch is fitted with a diode so it will still return.

Hope it makes sense. It is easier to show than tell.[]

tomo 17

grate thanks alot for your help.

tomo 17

hi

I have built the hull and super structure and am in the process of constructing the detailed part of the craft. Can you advise me on what would be best to buy for the control systems? Here is a list of what i think i need; motors (props and shafts x2) , winch for the front ramp, romote control unit, rudders x2. Can you advise me on which is the best products to buy and if there is anything else you would recommend that i need. 

I have got two drill moters i've noticed that they use 3v batteries, the ones that come with them but they are the size of a AA battery. Is it worth trying to find a bigger one or cut my losses and go with a normal 7.2v?

Many Thanks

Dave.