Hi Guys,
After seeing hdbeast's build thread, I felt inspired to post my own build not so much because I think I can make mine as detailed as his, but just for any help or info any of you fellow modellers may offer. I've already completed most of the lower hull after having used self-etching primer on all metal parts but aside from that, so far I am straight out of the box. I had planned on completing it this way but saw some of the mods done by others and was hoping to incorporate them into my tank. There aren't too many after market parts out there for the Pershing, especially when compared to the Tigers, but I did like very much the work done by grompix on hiding the TBU somewhere in the tank. Well, Here are the pictures I have so far:

Hi Miguel,

Looking good so far[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Watch posts from "Pattoncommander" his knowledge about these tanks is awesome.

Regards

Jake

Very cool, look forward to your spin on it! Can you show the inside of that beast?

The Blitz

RCTankWars.com

Hi Miguelm1
If its any help look up my unfinished thread,
called Petes Pershing you may find some pics to help in your build,
if you need any special help ,just send me a pm and i will do what i can to help you.
cheers Pete..........................

Hey miguelm1

NICE Tank, need any help let me know, I see some hatches that can be opened, Look at ETO for upgrades Bob's a great guy to work with. Pics are a must.

Gary

Now that I take another look at it, I can see many hatches that I should've opened up. I like the rear engine hatches opened up by Pete. Regrettably I have glued the h*** out of mine. I'm afraid they're on there for good. The stowage bins on the fenders would've been cool too, but oh well. I'll save all that for the KT which is on deck.

By the way, I was looking up some pictures of the Pershing in WWII to get the markings right, as I don't always trust the Tamiya suggestions, but have not found good pics showing the markings used for the time period, especially those used by 3AD in Cologne. I couldn't confirm any of the markings that Tamiya suggests. Can anyone recommend a book or website?

Mig best book is R P Hunnicutt Pershing (A history of the medium T20 Series),
i will lok up pics for you now
Pete....................

Mig as far as i can tell the tamiya are almost spot on,
but they did not use the LIFT HERE on the front of the germany ones and can not see the white star on the right hand side ie under the comanders cupola it would appear that the rest is correct to the best of my knowledge, i hope this is of some help, unless anybody knows
they thing different.
Pete.............................................. ..
Good luck and enjoy your build,

hasty note the tank in the Cologne pics shows that, it may have painted out its front star and added its number
right across the blower cover on the front glacis, also this tank had larger numbers on the side skirt,
more or less above the second rear wheel.
Pete.....................

I finally got around to applying the decals to my Pershing and starting on some weathering. I used some "sprues" from an old PE set to replace plastic tow cable holders that came with the kit. I'll be making a cable later. Still looking around to see if the WWII Pershing had any periscope cover guards anyone know? I checked out the price for the pershing book, but at $80 on ebay, I'm priced out of it. I found some pics of the Cologne Pershing here:

http://www.anicursor.com/colpicwar.html

And some decent footage on Youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oDnst7fAEU

Looks like it,s
coming along nicely,
keep up the pics .
Pete.................................

Looks really good so far. Just a side note and i'm not being fussy here ,But you may need to becareful if you plan on hidding the TBU. Most clubs will not allow this niether most competitions. if you just plan on battling with friends it's fine but If you plan on someday competing you may run into a problem with it.

There are three upgrades I added to my Pershing. One of the most important ones was the Gearbox plate created and sold by Daryl Turner. It allows you to remove the gearboxes for servicing them with only removing the outdrives and six screws from the bottom. Otherwise, you need to remove almost everything from the inside to get them out. A real pain in the butt. The second was the suspension upgrade offered. The stock ones are plastic where as the upgrade are metal. Most of mine started breaking and causing the arms to jam up. Once I replaced them with the upgrade, haven't had that problem. Last was the elevation arm. Daryl Turner was the first one to make a metal one to replace the plastic one which tends to strip over time. Now I did do some other things like replace the bushings with metal ball bearings. Replaced the plastic gun lock with the metal one ( bolts on ). And fixed my clutch gear on my rotation unit with some flat head screws. The Pershing is low profile and sometimes the wiring binds up or presses against the turret not allowing it to turn freely. Hope this helps some.

Thanks for all the feedback, guys. I was up in Canada for a week earning the $$ for building my tanks (and maybe eating), so I haven't had time for posting anything. I have done a little research regarding correcting the Pershing to the Cologne tank. From what I can tell in the pictures I've seen, the WWII Pershings didn't have the telephone box on the rear of the hull, so I'll have to remove the backing plate I've attached. I will also, unfotunately have to add the tie downs on the fenders and storage boxes. I'm not sure what to do about the oversized blower housing other than blanking out two of the four vents on either side. It's kind of hard to tell the difference in the Cologne film I'm using for my primary reference. I also see that the tracks supplied by Tamyia are Korean War types (T-81?), but I figured I'd wear these out and replace them with the proper steel tracks (T-66?).
I'd like to open the driver's periscope. It would be hard for him to drive buttoned up without that!
I really regret having glued the engine deck hatches shut. I want to wire a switch and plug for recharging the battery through the assistant driver's hatch. It would be a pain to have to remove the turret every time I want to recharge the battery. I know I've seen it done here on the forum. Does anyone know how to wire the switch so I don't have to disconnect the battery from the DMD each time?

BTW, I started this thread after having assembled some of the tank. I had replaced the bushings with sealed ball bearings already. I will deal with the TBU and the turret once I finish with the hull!

nice looking tank great work

Hi Miguelm1

I had posted on another thread about doing a recharge circuit so here is a cut and paste of the relevant bit

I used a double switch with two rows of three pins and wired the battery to the middle two and the recharge plug to one end set and the DMD to the other. If the switch is set in one position it connects the battery to the DMD and in the other position connects the recharge socket and isolates the DMD. I hope this is understandable as I know what I am trying to describe but maybe not describing it well.

cheers
Gorehound

Hey guys,
I had to abandon my project for a while but have come back to it with a vengeance. I ended up not hiding the TBU but I did hide the IR transmitter behind the mantlet. I also epoxied the clutch in the turret traverse gears. After trying to fit a switch for the charge/discharge cable to the battery, I decided there wouldn't be enough room in the cramped hul for a switch and all the wiring. Here are some more pics. I think I'll finish all the detailing work this week.