Pershing Problems
#1
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From: East Providence,
RI
Hey guys, I finally got my heng long pershing "snow leopard" with the metal gears and tracks, I have to say, i am less than impressed with it.. It broke idler wheels and threw its tracks, one track had a damaged pin from the factory, I got that sorted with a few spare parts from my old plasti-track. After getting this fixed I did the standard tooth paste break in, to get the gearboxes out though I had to cut the motor wires. To my dismay I refitted and soldered everything to the correct polarity, BUT the when I move the stick forwards, the tank goes into reverse, or when I move the stick back it goes forwards.. The peculiar part is that the tank turns to the proper movement of the stick; by that I mean if I move it left or right, or even on an angle, the tank turns accordingly, what is going on here? Is there a channel reverse on this remote that could fix this? Or do these tanks sometimes glitch like this on a low battery?
#2
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You soldered it up wrong. Solder and test before reattaching the hulls next time. It can be frustrating when you're tired so if you haven't fixed it yet, take the night off before you become a member of the "blown boards club". I'm the President btw! 
As for throwing tracks, was it because of the damaged pin? In 3 years I've never tossed a track on a Pershing. If your idler broke then your tank is SOL. Did you mean the return rollers came apart? That is more common problem, the solution is to pop them all off and reglue with CA. I use 3 drops so I can still pry them apart if need be.

As for throwing tracks, was it because of the damaged pin? In 3 years I've never tossed a track on a Pershing. If your idler broke then your tank is SOL. Did you mean the return rollers came apart? That is more common problem, the solution is to pop them all off and reglue with CA. I use 3 drops so I can still pry them apart if need be.
#3
HL Pershings, among other models, are half-axe assembled by young kids with minimal training. In many cases, road wheels, idlers and sprockets will become unglued and have to be re-tacked back together. I have never had a stock track problem and the Pershing has about the best tracks as far as dependabilty, strength and traction. I think your track problem is probably due to the idler not being glued on and alligned with the track. Check the engle and how it alligns with the center guides as opposed to the road wheels.
Can't help with electrponics....James has offered a suggestion and maybe Blitz will respond.
Can't help with electrponics....James has offered a suggestion and maybe Blitz will respond.
#4
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From: East Providence,
RI
Thanks guys, the motor problem was a simple fix, I wired the motors to the opposite connectors, so motor one was running off of wiring for motor 2, and vice versa. I took a few hours today to work on other issues, like the track alignment, the damaged pins etc. I also got around to weathering and adding a few scale accessories to it! I have to say I'm pretty much hooked on it now that it works, this thing runs like a bear; I cant believe the torque of this brute, it'll go over anything!
EDIT: Every ten minutes of driving a few pins start to come out, is this normal? Its driving me to the point where I might just go with a weighted plastic track..
EDIT: Every ten minutes of driving a few pins start to come out, is this normal? Its driving me to the point where I might just go with a weighted plastic track..
#5
Had a couple problems like that..I took the tracks off and lightly peened the pins against a jewlers anvil with a 1 oz hammer I use for clarinet work. Doesn't brad them enough to give problems getting a pin out, but just enough to keep them from walking out by themselves. Same scenario with a set of metal tracks...no more problems. you can always use a tiny drop of super glue.
#6
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ORIGINAL: miniz33
Thanks guys, the motor problem was a simple fix, I wired the motors to the opposite connectors, so motor one was running off of wiring for motor 2, and vice versa. I took a few hours today to work on other issues, like the track alignment, the damaged pins etc. I also got around to weathering and adding a few scale accessories to it! I have to say I'm pretty much hooked on it now that it works, this thing runs like a bear; I cant believe the torque of this brute, it'll go over anything!
EDIT: Every ten minutes of driving a few pins start to come out, is this normal? Its driving me to the point where I might just go with a weighted plastic track..
Thanks guys, the motor problem was a simple fix, I wired the motors to the opposite connectors, so motor one was running off of wiring for motor 2, and vice versa. I took a few hours today to work on other issues, like the track alignment, the damaged pins etc. I also got around to weathering and adding a few scale accessories to it! I have to say I'm pretty much hooked on it now that it works, this thing runs like a bear; I cant believe the torque of this brute, it'll go over anything!
EDIT: Every ten minutes of driving a few pins start to come out, is this normal? Its driving me to the point where I might just go with a weighted plastic track..
Take the tracks off and spray the inside with a rattle can of some "texture" type paint. You can buy stuff that has a metalic finish This layer of paint will keep the pins from coming out. I have to say track pins coming out of a Pershings is pretty unusual. That is the one tank I never have a problem with in this reguard.
#7
I just installed the metal Heng Long tracks on my HL Pershing. They seem to be having trouble moving smoothly over the road wheels, and making a lot of noise. I think it might be the alignment of the wheels.Has anyone had this problem? How can I resolve this?
#8
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From: Escondido,
CA
ORIGINAL: summvideo
I just installed the metal Heng Long tracks on my HL Pershing. They seem to be having trouble moving smoothly over the road wheels, and making a lot of noise. I think it might be the alignment of the wheels. Has anyone had this problem? How can I resolve this?
I just installed the metal Heng Long tracks on my HL Pershing. They seem to be having trouble moving smoothly over the road wheels, and making a lot of noise. I think it might be the alignment of the wheels. Has anyone had this problem? How can I resolve this?
Make sure the drive sprocket is aligned, maybe the metal casting did not allow them to sit down on the shaft corretly? Wiggle the drive shaft is the shaft firm or a lot of play maybe the gearbox is coming loose or maybe just the final shaft has a little too much play in them! Or with metal tracks they are going to be noisy rolling over the wheels unitl it all gets broke in but do make sure its aligned and not binding any where!
Let us know how you make out!
The Blitz
#9

They may still have a little metal flash on them just needs broken in or file off the extra metal flash they dont always clean them up to good before sending them out .
Jimmy
Jimmy
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From: Liverpool, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi
when i got my pershing the tracks where getting stuck in the road wheels and i found out the drive sprocket and idler where miss aligned.
i used small washers to align the sprocket and idler, used a small file to make the gap in the road wheels wider.
worked great no probs know.
Jon
when i got my pershing the tracks where getting stuck in the road wheels and i found out the drive sprocket and idler where miss aligned.
i used small washers to align the sprocket and idler, used a small file to make the gap in the road wheels wider.
worked great no probs know.
Jon
#11
Followed Starskey's advice and used some small washers to align the wheels better, and also widened the gap in the road wheels a liitle bit. The tank rides about 90% better now.I can't imagine anything else I can do. I'm sure the tracks and wheels will break in as I run the tank.



