hmmm.
#1
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hmmm.
I just finished installing the metal sprockets and metal idlers, I know I tighten them both to snug, but they still spin a little wobbly, is this normal? Are the tracks going to eliminate the little wobble it has?
Also when my metal tracks arrive, I saw a thread where peeps take off one link? If so, how many links is optimal for a HL tiger 1?
Thanks.
Also when my metal tracks arrive, I saw a thread where peeps take off one link? If so, how many links is optimal for a HL tiger 1?
Thanks.
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RE: hmmm.
Are these "bearing-ed" parts or just metal on a shoulder bolt or pin?
I got my bearing-ed idler and drive wheels mounted, and noticed excessive wobble in the wheels too. (StuG III)
The problem in my case is that the shoulders are both too small a diameter (they don't match the hole in the bearing) AND the shoulder bottoms out on the mount before the wheel gets close enough to the mount to keep it from moving in/out excessively. Combined it results in a lot of play. Noticed this on my earlier Panzer III as well, with HL non-bearing-ed metal wheels.
Only solution I found (easily) so far is to find nylon washers, trim to the right diameter, and flat sand until they take up as much of the slop as possible, without binding the wheel. They certainly rotate with much less force now, but probably at a point of diminishing return to try and solve the shoulder being undersized.
Here's a post of mine with some photo's, and description of the problems I've run across.
I got my bearing-ed idler and drive wheels mounted, and noticed excessive wobble in the wheels too. (StuG III)
The problem in my case is that the shoulders are both too small a diameter (they don't match the hole in the bearing) AND the shoulder bottoms out on the mount before the wheel gets close enough to the mount to keep it from moving in/out excessively. Combined it results in a lot of play. Noticed this on my earlier Panzer III as well, with HL non-bearing-ed metal wheels.
Only solution I found (easily) so far is to find nylon washers, trim to the right diameter, and flat sand until they take up as much of the slop as possible, without binding the wheel. They certainly rotate with much less force now, but probably at a point of diminishing return to try and solve the shoulder being undersized.
Here's a post of mine with some photo's, and description of the problems I've run across.