GTRice

I'm quite fimiliar with Tamiya vehicles, except for there tanks. Do all Tamiya tanks are run by 540 size motors or 380 motors? I knows the Leopard 2 A6 uses 540 motors. Also, do Tamiya tanks uses ball bearings in there tranny? Can tanks even use ball bearings anyway?

Jeff489

My Feedback: (12)

The Leopard 2a6 uses 540 size, and all of the rest of Tamiya's tanks use 380 size.  On everything but the Leo2a6, there are bearings only on the last shaft in the transmission (this is the final drive shaft).  All the rest if the shafts are bushed.

As to the idler wheels and roadwheels, they are bushed too.  Bearings are a popular add on though.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Jeff489:

Thats not ~completely~ accurate.

The original Sherman (these are pre-DMD units) RT1601/56001 used a pair of 280's, the Leopard 1A4 (56002), Gepard (56003) and King Tiger (56004) used single 540 motors (combined with a clutch system) and then the new Sherman (56005) began the DMD's with 380's. The only DMD-issue tank to NOT get twin-380's was the Leopard 2A6 (56020) which uses a pair of 540's in a rather different manner than the twin-380's did.

Yes, bearings are a popular upgrade, but if you want 'em, best put them in as you build. Doing it after the fact can be a royal pain, and even weaken the kit. And IF you do get bearings, make sure the lube used is styrene safe. We had an outbreak of suspension-arm fracture due to bad lubes a number of years back. When in doubt, ASK, and if they won't put it in writing (or in the eBay message log) buy elsewhere.

WhiteWolf

ksoc

With some kits, such as the Tiger I, it is best to add the bearing during the initial build, since the road wheels are glued together. The Pershing road wheels are secured with 3 screws, so upgrading to bearing isn't so difficult or risky.

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

Agreed...

Doing it after the fact is ok on the Pershing, and I think the King Tiger's still get screwed together, but you get into wear issues doing it after the fact. One, the screws used are self-tapping, and you take 'em in and out a few times, they rip out of the plastic. Secontly, if you have used the kit in sandy/dusty areas, the grit may have subtly worn (or worse) the shafts, and then ~those~ need to be replaced as well.

I recall telling many offroad racers this tidbit, and then laughing at 'em at the end of a race day when they note their wheels were wobbling. Grit between the bushing and axles had ruined ~both~, and badly worn the tires besides.

Easier (and generally cheaper in the long run) to do it from the get-go, if you're going to do it at all.

GTRice

Ok thanks guys, just wondering about this that's all. I also forgot to ask this. Does the Leopard 2 A6 and other Tamiya tanks uses a aluminum chassis deck?

ksoc

It varies by tank. Of those I have built;

Sherman - entire lower hull is aluminum.

Tiger - Lower hull walls are plastic, with metal inserts at the road wheels, and an aluminum base plate.

Pershing - Plastic lower hull, metal inserts and and aluminum frame/stiffener.

GTRice

Ok, but what about the Leopard 2 A6? Does it has an aluminum chassis deck?

Panther G

The Leopard 2A6 has a plastic lower hull with an aluminum insert. I believe someone does make an entire aluminum lower hull but cant remember who it was.