I stopped in at Niagara Central Hobbies in St. Catherines, Ontario, this morning and checked out their stock.

This one isn't a discount brand but it felt good to handle (but what do I know , I have never used one).

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/cgi-b...tail.cgi?r=157

It was a single action with three different size tips provided; they say two on the site but the one I looked at had 3, maybe I got the wrong link, everything else mates on it though.

They had the double action as well but I thought I might have difficulty keeping a consistant spray with it due to not being skilled enough to manipulate the slidecontrol at the right spot. (I think Clint Eastwood once said "A man's gotta know his limitations).

I have a paashe Talon and I love it.

Meh,.....<div>
</div><div>While I can agree that a single action is more friendly to a beginner.....my preference is to use those as limited as possible. The only good thing for a single action to me is base coats and clear coats. It can be used in a fashion that allows some detail, but it's not a fine detail brush. So, little crevices, corners and what not will be limited to a bristol brush and other techniques. There are dual airbrushes that will allow you to use it in a fashion similar to a single action by limiting the throw greatly, but hey....it's your choice. </div>

I will have to check that out. I am still "kicking tires" on them, the actual purchase is likely a few weeks down the road.

Most airbrushes won't list this functionality. You need to be able to recognize it. Here are some examples to look out for.<div></div><div></div>There are some that have an internal screw that serves as a tensioner to increase the throws resistance and some can be tightened to a point that limits the throw period...but those you'll need to test out yourself, but I can tell you whatIwata'sI have that do this....but you don't really want to go there cause the price ain't cheap.

On the second pic that has the tiny limiting screw in the front, some have it at the rear too, same thing.

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I use a Paasche VL. I bought it as a set and have had good results with it even though it was my first airbrush. It is a nice set for the price for a beginner. The Iwatas are a little expensive for the amount of painting I do. the Talon also is a very nice brush with a reasonable price. There are brushes out now that have a pistol grip which can make it a little easier for some. i think it is Grex who makes those. They also have an adapter that is a pistol grip that will work with any make airbrush.

What is most important is how you use it. you should use a 2 stage brush, you always keep the air on and you control the paint with the slide. You don't trigger the air on and off. You will have the best results when you use this technique.

Look into Master airbrushes here. They also carry all other brands, but the Masters are basically knock offs of Iwata's. I own a few of these too. The threading isn't compatible, but you'll see by the pic's that they have striking resemblances. Their warranty is virtually unbeatable too. Although they advertise returns, most times if you've had a problem...they'll just send you out a new one. I've had some pistol grip attachments for my Iwata's which I gave to a buddy, I just don't like them. They're handy if your, again doing bases and coatings...but for feathering, fine lines, and proper brush stokes....more work than it's worth to me. But....I'm looking at if from a detail stand point. You may not have the intent to get that detailed, so a pistol grip my be fine.

I've been looking at airbrushes online. I am concerned about the Gravity Feed brushes that have the cup permanently attached to the top of the airbrush. I took an airbrush class in college 21 years ago (I cringe when I think it has been that long ago.. I'm getting old..). Anyway, I had to use those Gravity Feed airbrushes with a rather large cup fixed at the top of them. As I remember, it seemed that the big cup would block my view, when trying to look at what I was spraying, making it difficult to do fine detail work. I was using the brush to do illustration work in the class, not painting models.

Wouldn't a side feed airbrush, that you can plug various sized cups into, be a better option than a fixed one-size cup on top?

The airbrush below only comes with a .2mm needle though and that is probably too small for base coats on a tank. They have another airbrush that comes with .2mm, .3mm, and .5mm needles but it has that fixed cup on top of the brush..

[link]http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/sb82detail.html[/link]

Iwata equivolent that comes with a .35mm needle:

[link]http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=IWA+4205[/link]


Anyone, including BiggTony, have any comments about this?

Also, what size cup would be needed to hold enough paint to spray a complete base coat on a 1/16 Tiger 1? I have no idea how many ounces would be needed to cover a Tiger..

Compressors..

Has anyone used this one for airbrushing? 3 Gallon holding tank, 100PSI Max, $60, not sure how reliable it would be:

[link]http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html[/link]

I've read that this one for $157 (Makita MAC700) is supposed to be very reliable and strong. Maybe could even paint a real Tiger with it, or at least also use it to add air to my car's tires (I hate trying to do that at a gas station):

[link]http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1[/link]

BiggTony, what hose and regulator/moisture trap would I need to get to use this Makita MAC700 with an Iwata Eclipse or Master equivolent?

<p style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt" class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 115%; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"">I am surprised that no one has brought up Iwata Airbrushes.  I have used a Paasche, a Badger, and a Iwata, and by far the Iwata's work best.  Double action are nice, but you really don't need one, especially if you plan on using paints other than Acrylics.  I used to do some pretty hard detail with my Iwata when I made 1/35 scale tanks.  I think the most important piece of equipment is a good Air Compressor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">   Which I see that you now have one.</span></span></p>

RSEA,<div></div><div>I own that exact same airbrush and I love it. But....that airbrush is typically used as a secondary airbrush among the twenty something I own. It's design is more common for graphic illustration,pin-striping, and high detail which is why the color cup can be positioned either left or right of the airbrush....you can make lines as thin as hair with very little spatter depending on the viscosity of your paint and it's well balanced. The needle size isn't something that would be considered as a well rounded option as it's very specific to detail work...meaning, if you're considering to base or top coat....may as well spit on it one section at a time. lol</div><div></div><div>The needle size that's most well rounded, at least for our 1/16 tanks would be .3-.4-.5......with .1- .2, you should have very little difficulty detailing 1/16-1/35 figures as long as you can steady your hands, that is. But, no matter how design specific an airbrush is, as long as there are options.....it becomes apreferenceof body style. So if you did get the SB82...I would strongly consider getting the <span style="color: rgb(0, 204, 255); ">.3</span>and <span style="color: rgb(0, 204, 255); ">.5</span>needle/nozzle kit. Obviously...with a .5 needle, you'll get a base/top coat done in no time.</div><div></div><div>In regards to side feeding, versus gravity feed, or suction. Side feed and gravity feed are similar in regards to paint usage which allows you to use down to the last drop, where as suction leaves waste and gets annoying when you try to use the last little bit out of the jar which requires holding it at a specific angle....but, perfect for base/top coating as bottom feeding air brushes are more common for holding large quantities of paint. But honestly, it's all a matter of preference and luxuries we can do with out. While a large gravity fed color cup could possibly obstruct the view, it's not likely that you'll be looking directly behind your hand and above the airbrush as that position would serve to be quiteawkward.</div><div></div><div>Now fixed cups aren't necessarily better....but in fact, they are a bit easier to clean...whereas a removable side feed color cup can be the biggest pain in the butt for acrylics. Why so? Well, side feed cups havetubes that insert into the body of the airbrush which paint issiphoned through andtend to get clogged (depending on the medium and how long it's been before cleaned.) Fixed color cups have a direct and usually large opening visible in the body of the airbrush....making color changes easy. Simply dunk half of the airbrush in a jar of clean water andintermittentlyspray while submerged and you're ready to rock. There are alsochangeable cupgravity fed airbrushes as well <span style="color: rgb(0, 204, 255); ">G46</span>or G33. Much morepractical which I also own. &lt;&lt;&lt; This would be more of a well rounded andversatileairbrush and too has .2 or .5 needle options available.</div><div></div><div>Now what airbrush/color cup size would be able to do a complete base coat with out having to refill on a 1/16 Tiger....?</div><div>There are a couple of factors beyond the size of the cup to consider. Airflow should be around 15-30psi with a .3-.5 needle. Too high and you'll get more paint flowing out at a rapid rate also with .3 needle, it's likely paint will begin to dry in the air before touching the surface of the tank causing a sandpaper like surface on your tank if you're trying to base coat at 30-60+psi.....distance from the surface you're painting should also be taken into consideration as well which too can result in this effect. (Enamel or oil based paints do not share this effect.) Then the rate in which you move is also to be considered.</div><div>With keeping all that in mind....you should be able to complete a "light" base coat with a 1/2oz cup....but you may still need a secondary coat.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div>

I use a Passhe VL . I love it for all my needs you can control it to a thin line to wider patterns for covering larger areas.
The price is not bad for a good airbrush.

Ron

I recently acquired an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and Iwata Smartjet compressor and I'm very happy with them both. From what I've read there isn't a better airbrush for model painting than the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.

BiggTony, thanks for the information. I looked up the G46 and G33. The G33 has the open handle which should make it easier to clean, versus the other with the closed handle.

The Iwata HP-CS has a fixed, rather large, 1/3 oz. cup, one .35mm needle and costs $40 more.

I'm thinking I might try to paint white outline numbers on the tank with the airbrush, even crosses etc. Would a .3mm needle work well for that, or is that a job for a .2mm? I've tried painting thin white lines with a fine paint brush and have found it hard to get a consistent line thickness by doing it that way.

Hey RSEA,<div></div><div>Sorry for the delay....I can't seem to get rid of the intruders that refer themselves as relatives! lol</div><div></div><div>Anyway, the cutaway feature is a gimmick and doesn't add any moreefficiencythan pulling back the thumb lever (trigger). What the cutaway feature does, is allow you to grab the adjustable screw with your thumb and finger and pull it back for a quick flush. Wow....great feature. Now where that feature really comes into play is when you have made adjustments to the adjustable tube shank (in some models) which prevents full throttle back of the thumb lever (trigger)if all the way tightened.</div><div></div><div>As for the HP-CS (which I also own)....well, I gotta say....other than the quality of the chrome dipping and name...nearly the same damn thing (but it does make a pretty 'clink' sound when you let go of the thumb lever.). Look at what you get with the G33. Three different size cups, you pay less, and the results are going to be the same, trust me. Just as we in this hobby suffer from brand debates,unfortunately so does the airbrush industry.To translate how an arguement would go between Iwata vs "other brands," in RC Tank IR battle talk.....It would go like this. "Hey, you only got that many kills because you're rocking a Tamiya Tiger and I'm commanding an HL Tiger. If I had the Tamiya tank, I'd get just as many kills." &lt;&lt;&lt; urmmm... false, it's the commanders skill. lol

Iwata is the Tamiya in that realm in regards to a praised brand, period. Not to forget, Iwata paved the way for many of the brands that borrowed it's style and features, as they were innovative for their time. But the contrast in performance is not so severe as to compare stock HL vs Tamiya kits, in fact...there is no difference in end results. So to say that Iwata is better is false, mostprofessionalartists will tell you that, well reasonable ones. But at the same time, it's a tool that represents a position....a professional status if you will, much like aprofessionalbusinessman would carry a +$100 executive pen or a technician has to have a Fluke brand. So, it will almost always be recommended....unless you run into someone who owns a multitude of airbrushes *wink *wink. lol</div><div></div><div>You won't need a .2mm to do fine work. A skilled and controlled hand can accomplish a lot and even fine detail with a 0.3mm needle. But, your going to need practice and experiment with air flow setting.</div>

Tony,

I appreciate your information on these airbrushes.

From your experience what size air hose would I need and regulator/moister trap to run on this compressor below?

[link]http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1[/link]

Motor 2.0 HP
Pump Oil Lubricated
2.6 gallon holding tank
90 PSI 3.3cfm
40 PSI 3.8cfm
Max Pressure 130 PSI
Amps 12.4
Noise 80dB
18"x10"x22"
weight 52lbs (wow, kind of heavy.. only downside I guess)


Would one of these regulators work?

[link]http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/abfilter.aspx[/link]

That compressor has a 1/4 coupler on it. So, should I be getting a 1/4" hose with 1/8" fittings to go with it?

Compressor, airbrush w/cups & needles, regulator, hose.. Maybe a table clamp stand to hold the airbrush.. Anything else I am missing?

Yes, you can use that regulator, but I must note that the quality of that regulator is iffy at best. Plastic through and through. That one is on one of my spare compressors I use for touch up work and it failed on me once. Great thing about TCPglobal is once you call, they send out a replacement asap. That was 2 years ago and the replacement has been no problems. As for the hose, all you need is 1/8" fitting on both ends....length is up to you. The regulators output is 1/8".

For basic airbrushing, the essentials are:
Airbrush
Various needle/nozzle kit (optional, but recommended)
Compressor
Hose
Regulator &amp; moisture trap
Paint
PAINT MASK/SURGICAL MASK or better such as PAINT RESPIRATOR!!!!! ACRYLIC OR ANY PIGMENT AIRBORNE IS TOXIC.
and that's all.

Essentials for painting with airbrush:
Tons of Popsicle sticks
Tons of Paper/Styrofoam cups
Tons of Paper Towels
Jug(s) of water at your station
Pipettes (disposable would be great)
Storage Jars for mixed paints
Airbrush cleaner (encase you develop a habit of not cleaning your airbrush directly after use.)

Airbrush stand or hook is optional as well as the cleaning jar. I have neither.



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Any suggestions for a regulator that is not "iffy at best"? Like maybe one that is available through tcpglobal? You didn't comment at all on the compressor itself that I listed.. Seems like it is fairly stout and could be used for other things besides air brushing. Good, just ok, overkill any comments?

RSEA,<div></div><div>My bad, I didn't even have a look at that compressor, just went off of you stating that it had a 1/4" coupler.</div><div></div><div>I'm not familiar with the brand, but after doing some research of the specs/reviews/video demos.....I may buy one myself, lol. Can never have enough compressors!</div><div></div><div>That compressor actually comes with a regulator, which is great and allows adjustment from 0-90 psi....but at 3.8cfm - 3.3cfm.....that's a tremendous amount of airflow, good enough to push automotive paint. (1.2 - 2.5 cfm is typical for airbrushing.)</div><div></div><div>The 1/4" outlet you spoke of is a quick connect coupler. Now, I'm not sure if the quick connect feature is removable leaving a 1/4" threaded outlet or inlet from the regulator. You may need to purchase a 1/4" quick connectadapterto 1/4" threaded end to be safe.</div><div></div><div>What you will need is a waterseparator. There are various types that can be fitted at the compressor or in between the hose line. One of my set ups is both a secondary regulator and moisture trap is in between the line, because my 30 gal compressor is loud as frick and stays in the garage with a line running into my home to my work station. Obviously you don't want to go that route unless you intend on replacing the provided regulator that comes with the compressor or purchasing a secondary regulator/moisture trap combo, but you can do this with the moisture trap which can also be used as a coupler to extend the length of the hose.</div><div></div><div>This can be used inline or at the outlet of the regulator.</div><div>http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Water-Sepa...531&amp;sr=1-3</div><div></div><div>What you will now need is a 1/4" hose fitting to 1/8" fitting or this 1/4" to 1/8" adapter and purchase a 1/8" to 1/8" hose. If I were you, I'd get the longest hose I could to get as far away from the compressor possible (if you're you're airbrushing in the home or enclosed area.) I personally cannot withstand the noise for a longduration, which is why I use a 30gal tank. Only problem with this, is you will be to far away from the regulator to make adjustments on the go.</div><div></div><div>But....there's always an answer for everything, lol.</div><div>Some airbrushes have regulation valves that will let you control the amount of air flow. Two downsides to this.....you run a risk of blowing a hose due to built up pressure (which is why you don't want to rest your airbrush under pressure for long durations.) If the regulator is set to high, it makes this feature useless (you don't want to exceed 60psi any way and often times, even that is overkill unless it's automotive paint or undiluted lacquers.)</div><div></div><div>If this is a consideration, look for airbrushes with this valve underneath the body (directly under color cup or near tip.)</div><div>http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdep...ision.aspx#G43</div><div>Same goes for Iwata....but you'll pay a pretty penny!
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdep...e.aspx#IWA4003

EDIT: Thread seal tape!!! That's what I forgot to mention, lol. Need it, need it, need it! All connection points from the regulator to the moisture trap, except at the airbrush.</div><div><a href="http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/ihline.aspx#IWA4003">
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Lots of info there Tony, thanks!

If the MAC700's regulator is set for lower airbrush range operational pressures, would the 3.8 - 3.3 cfm airflow be a problem (as in too much air flow)? Otherwise, this sounds like a good all around compressor to me..

Compare for example to the closest Iwata equivolent, The Hammerhead Shark:

http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php...merhead_shark/

Hammerhead - 1/2 hp, 1.5 gallon tank, 2.15 CFM, 84-114 PSI max, 55 lbs weight, twin regulators, moisture traps and outputs, probably oil-less, cost $1,056

MAC700 - 2 hp, 2.6 gallon tank, 3.3 - 3.8 CFM, 120 PSI Max, 52 lbs weight, one regulator and one output, oil-lubricated, cost $157

MAC700 specs state 80dB noise level. Iwata does NOT state noise levels for any of their compressors.. Ear protection should not be required for noise levels under 85dB.

The smaller Iwata compressors, like the Smart Jets ($285), don't have a holding tank at all and must run continuously while spraying and still cost more than this MAC.

The MAC's engine reminds me of my early 80's Garelli VIP moped's 2 hp two stroke engine, that would propel the moped to speeds of 44mph.

I'm getting scientific on this compressor thing, but I don't want to buy a cheap piece of junk, or unnecessarily spend a lot of money on a "airbrush marketed" compressor. A Smart Jet could not be used to put air in my car's tires either.


THREAD TAPE = good old Teflon tape, correct?

You can just get one at a lows or home depot and use it for home use and also airbrush use that's what i do.

<div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; background-image: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; ">Well, youdefinitelyhave the right idea and yes, teflon tape is a must.....but I'm sure you would have known (or discovered that at the very least) when air seeped out of connections.<div></div><div>I would never, ever, ever, ever recommend airbrush workstation compressors at a premium cost. They are a joke and rip off. Now, not to say they don't have their uses, such as nail salons, air brush booths, or portable workstations that have restrictive space....but as you already have discovered....the price and specs don't add up to what you can really get outside of compressors that cater to air brushing. If you must have one, this is one that I own as well that stays in my trunk when I need to touch up work atunforeseenoccasions.http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/tc196.htmlTo note...they jacked the price up, but then again...I got it on ebay several years back for $99 through them (non-auction.) That also brings to mind....sometimes they sell the exact same thing on ebay for less or a modified kit...so I would keep that option open to.</div><div></div><div>Any way, the Makita compressor is a good choice, but the tank size could be better. 40psi at 3.8 CFM is great, I should have clarified when I made mention on the CFM rating for airbrushing, this can get quite confusing. Compressor CFM rating is how much air the tank/motor can move under pressure. Under the average airbrush spec, most airbrushes require aminimumof 20psi at 1.2cfm. There are factors that will degrade the cfm, like length and diameter of the hose which willintroducea degree of lowered cfm. At any rate, if that spec is true to the "T" you should be able to have two to three people run an air brush of their ownsimultaneouslyif desired @40psi off that compressor.</div></div><br type="_moz" />

That TC-196 compressor you said you have doesn't look too bad for a small, compact, lightweight compressor. I like that it only weighs 16 lbs, hell of a lot lighter than 52 lbs! 1/3 hp and 1.2 CFM @ 60 PSI make it more powerful than the Smart Jet. It has a .92 gallon holding tank, unlike the the Smart Jet. Plus the noise level is only 59 dB!

Now you've made my decision even harder after throwing that one into the mix! Thanks Tony.. lol

If I get the big MAC700, I'd want to get a water separator from either TCP or Amazon, not a third party like the one you suggested above (would like to avoid an extra shipping charge just for the trap). This one should work:



Any advantage to having the trap vertical instead of in a horizontal orientation? The pictured trap would be horizontal when mounted to the MAC700, unlike the vertical orientation of the traps on the TC-196 or Smart Jets.

And of course a paint mask for safety:



LOL I could even wear this to the battlefield in the spring, so my nose doesn't start running from the weeds & allergies like it did last April.. Get a flame thrower to strap on my back and I'd be all set!

LOL!<div style="margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; background-image: initial; background-attachment: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; "></div><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; ">Sorry, but you know this wasn't going to be an easydecision!</div><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; ">What's that moisture trap psi rating?<div>Also, I am not aware of any advantages in end result other than ease of collected water in settled state and push valve draining. I thought the my link to that waterseparatorwasfrom Amazon?</div></div><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; "></div><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12px; ">Anyway....back the TC-196</div><div>I don't only haveone...........I have three more than one, plus a few othercompressors.lol

Holy Daisy Dukes!
Thatrespiratoris overkill!!!! lol Whatcha plan on painting, warheads?lol
I was thinking more along the lines of something like this.
</div></div>