Here's a link to a museum that has two of them.

http://www.orasoft.net.pl/~leszek.ch/museum/vsu152.html

If you enlarge the photo of the first one, (serial #30351) you can see the shell loading/ejection port above the third roadwheel. -Mike

Im glad you are not a spy but if you were you need to do better. Russian ww2 armor is ugly with flat head screws and o yea ugly. Dont get me wrong i have a couple to and they kinda grow on you. A little off topic but at quantico va 20 some years ago they had a couple of them setting out by the gim and you could clime in them.

It is interesting that the labels have the earlier vs. later road wheels reversed. Or am I just confused?

I know the Russians ran their tracks a lot looser then the German, because they could, but in the second photo there is loss and then there is LOOSE!

Got a few more details done today. Here are some pics' of the gun tube.
I opened the bore near the breach to allow both the firing emitter and the gun flash to pass through the barrel. There is a pic. of the muzzle, kind of blurry, but it shows the emitter in a black tube and the flash next to it. I also have been fitting and selectively grinding on various parts of the mantlet and the upper portion of the breach to allow a greater and smoother gun movement.

I am also working on the interior to set up recoil and gun movement. i will post some pics later to show how that is coming along.

Rather a first rate job, lad. Well done!

I've been wondering about doing the same with my KV-2, so you don't think there would be an interfence issue with the stobe and the IF led?

I initially had similar concerns about the flash interfering with the emitter. I have read of others doing this and have heard of no problems. this is my first attempt to do it since you need kind of big cannon or at least a huge muzzle break to pull it off. I do not know how others have done it exactly but i put my emitter inside of a black painted tube so it should be sealed from the flash.

Nice work!

Ok the lower hull is done. not elegant but functional. I have driven it around my battle field and it runs real nice. here is a pic. I located the DMD in the Heng Long battery compartment and put the battery forward for better weight distribution. The speaker box is an integral part of the hull to increase stiffness. It should work fine.
I started on the recoil, elevation and traverse mounts this morning. The gimbal provided with the kit is a bit hard for me to work with but i have not given up on it yet. lots of tweaking to make the mantlet traverse without binding. i will post pictures of that later.

A bit more work done. I have extended the trunnion that came with the kit to allow a mounting base for the elevation. I made an adapter to mount the recoil stay n the back of the cannon assembly. In the picture i am bonding a swivel mount at the back of the recoil assembly to attach the elevation arm. I originally was going to use modified servos for elevation and traverse but i had couple of tamiya units that i thought to try before going the servo route. Sorry for all the dust in the photo as i have been doing lots of fitting and grinding to make sure everything fits. For a large area everything still seems real cramped. The black goopy stuff is J-B weld, one of my favorite epoxies. After this batch sets i will try the elevation and if it works as it should i will start fitting the traverse motors. Hope am not boring you guys too much. I hate close up pics as they how work being much more crappy looking then it really is.

Thanks for sharing how you have the recoil and elevation mounted. Could you take some more pics on both sides and the back please, I want to know what I need to do when I eventually will get my SU-152 kit. Thanks.

Duane

I added some pics to my previous post for you Duane. A couple of things. 1. in the second pic. you see a metal pin in the side of the which is used as a locator to keep the barrel from rotating and to limit it's forward aft movement. That pin caused me nothing but heart ache when used with the tamiya recoil so in my final version i took it out. 2. in the 3rd picture there is a brass strip bonded to the recoil stay. because of the pin problem i mentioned the stay was twisting. after removing the pin i removed this brass strip as it was no longer needed. I hope these pics help you.

You did a great job there. Thank you very much for the pics, they'll come in handy when I build mine.

Duane

Wow, just awesome. You are my hero and friggin fast. It's as if you're on a deadline or something.....

When you get it pm me for any lessons learned. I have a few of them.

Remember the bucket list i published a couple weeks ago. I ain't getting any younger and the list is long!!

LOL!!! Yeah, I do remember that. Needless to say, my jaw dropped at the list...but, at this rate...you'll have a good amount of that done before the end of this year!!! That is, if you don't work your fingers to the bone, literally, speed demon!

After seeing stuff from volvospeed and yellowshaker i am embarrassed to continue but i will. here is the traverse mechanism. It is a low profile servo with a standard ball and socket arm but i use a camera controller circuit from Dinoysus Design. This adapter allows the servo to move slowly and stays where it was positioned last. I have these in my Elefant and my Panther F. I included reference info for the adapter in case anyone wants to try them. I also finished mounting the IR receiver so I can now begin to finish detailing, final paint and get to war. I have been doing interim testing so it should complete pretty quick. BTW i blasted off all the grinding and sanding dust.

Nice work man! Don't let volvo's or yellowshakers stuff discourage you (although it has me quite a bit), just use it as fuel! I think you're doing an awesome job. Thanks for sharing that servo thingamajig too. That will certainly come in handy.....now if only I can find a SU152 kit! That is one thing I don't have...a tank destroyer,....maybe I should just spring for the Jagdpanther....not!..............
yet.Keep it coming and keep on sharing!

Pretty much final pics. Just need to add some graphics and perhaps a light weathering. most of my stuff looks like it has been around 100 years so i might consider this a fresh factory issue.

For the slightly faint of heart, IMHO, this is not the easiest kit in the world. There are lots of thing in the El-Mod kit that plain old "do not fit" such as the railing stanchions and a few other bit parts. The assembly 'guide" is a bit vague and could use some improved graphics as it is not real easy to see the correct placement of some items. However casting quality is quite good.The elevation/traverse trunnion is D** ***T in my opinion and i will do a go back and make it better later. But here it is on the field of valor stalking a big kitty. Anybody have an idea of the interior color needed, for the inside of the hatches? I am thinking of a buff or yellow white but i could use input.

Great job Ken, l like what you did. Want to sell it?? I forgot to ask but who's gearboxes are you using? Are they 3:1? After seeing your very nice SU-152 I want one more than ever.

Duane

Hey Duane look at the original post it list everything in the vehicle except i did not use the Mato metal tracks. they were working with the Mato metal sprockets. A bit of a mismatch. I also went with the tamya recoil due to space. Thanks for the kind words just give me my 1/4 gold star. lol

If you have not gotten much further i would suggest you throw away that swivel mounted to the roof and build something more like the Jagdpanther. the weight hanging from the roof is going to cause a lot of wear and alignment problems, i predict. i will do a go back in the future and do this to mine and install a nice bearing for the traverse. Just a suggestion!!

You did an awesome job on that Ken. That would be an awesome addition to my KV-1! I need to start learning to jump on some of these limited cast kits!